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Stories by Evelyn Grimm

Hit in the rib cage by board in Hawaii

Name: Clara Macculloch Age: 19 From: Sunset Cliffs Location: Sunset Cliffs Clara Macculloch was pulling her board out of her Dad’s car in Sunset Cliffs when we stopped to chat. “I live right at the ...

Started going down to Punta Mita in the 80s

Name: Amy Lepine Age: 53 From: Ocean Beach Location: Sunset Cliffs Amy Lepine is an OB native and Sunset Cliffs is her beach. “This is a little slice of heaven here… I know a lot ...

Surfing meant partying, like the Gidget movie

Name: Michael Curtis Age: 69 From: Sunset Cliffs Location: Sunset Cliffs It was an overcast morning by the Sunset Cliff stairs when Michael Curtis and I started to chat. Curtis has been surfing since 1954. ...

Surfed naked at Blacks Beach

Name: Shona Neufeld Age: 30 From: San Diego Location: Sunset Cliffs Shona Neufeld was walking to her car with board on head when I approached her. Neufeld is from Albuquerque, New Mexico, but she moved ...

Caught inside the waves in Cabarita

Name: Steve Kathey Age: 59 From: Ocean Beach Location: Sunset Cliffs Steve Kathey was walking to his car after a morning of surfing when we stopped to chat. “I’m born and raised in San Diego ...

February 18, 2019
Surfing is a sport, not a lifestyle

Name: Mark Kirchner Age: 57 From: Clairemont Location: Ocean Beach Mark Kirchner and I stopped to chat near the lifeguard tower. Kirchner has been surfing San Diego for about 25 years. “I don’t know what ...

Surfing kind of saved me from being an alcoholic

Name: James Age: 39 From: La Mesa Location: Ocean Beach Today, Ocean Beach is particularly crowded due to a surf school. I caught up with James as he was heading to the showers after a ...

Lost vision in the waves

Name: Santiago Guadalupe Age: 30 From: Ocean Beach Location: Tourmaline Surf Park Santiago Guadalupe was heading to the showers, board on head, when we stopped to chat. “I just got this longboard. It’s a Murphy ...

The most terrifying thing is the stingray

Name: Doc Waske Age: 74 From: La Mesa Location: Tourmaline Surf Park On a sunny day in Pacific Beach, Don Waske was heading to the showers after a morning surf session. Waske started surfing San ...

In those days, we didn’t have a leash

Name: Inge Morton Age: 80 From: Coronado Location: Tourmaline Surf Park Inge Morton was walking to the showers with board on her head when we stopped to chat. “I’ve been surfing here for 25 years, ...

I got the nose of my board through my lip

Name: Sean Dunn Age: 24 From: Clairemont Location: Ocean Beach Sean Dunn was heading to the showers in Ocean Beach after a long surf session when I approached him. Dunn learned how to surf here ...

You step on land, get in the car, and reality hits

Name: Octavio Gonzalez Age: 39 From: Ocean Beach Location: Sunset Cliffs Octavio Gonzalez was sitting on a bench watching the surfers on the water when I stopped to chat. Gonzalez frequents Sunset Cliffs, “because it ...

You can’t just catch any wave, there’s a pecking order

Name: Kevin Jimenez Age: 36 From: San Diego Location: Ocean Beach Kevin Jimenez was walking on the sidewalk toward Newport Avenue parking lot after a morning surf session. Jimenez usually surfs La Jolla, but today ...

A world-class wave at Sunset Cliffs

Name: Sam Age: 36 From: Ocean Beach Location: Ocean Beach I met up to chat with Sam at the Newport Avenue parking lot in Ocean Beach. OB is Sam’s local spot, despite occasional crowds and ...

Ran over by dolphins

Name: Hayden Gore Age: 42 From: Ocean Beach Location: Sunset Cliffs Hayden Gore was heading down the long flight of stairs at Sunset Cliffs when we stopped to chat. Gore first started surfing in South ...

Went over the falls on a 20-foot wave

Name: Fabiano Sarmento Age: 29 From: Ocean Beach Location: Ocean Beach On a cloudy day in Ocean Beach, Fabiano Sarmento was walking to the showers with a neon board. “This board belongs to one of ...

The hardest thing I’ve ever learned

Name: John Lavery Age: 63 From: Pacific Beach Location: Tourmaline Surf Park John Lavery was hauling his board up to the showers after a morning surf in Pacific Beach. Lavery started surfing when he moved ...

My friends thought I was knocked out

Name: Alex Geller Age: 30 From: Pacific Beach Location: Tourmaline Surf Park On a sunny day in Pacific Beach, Alex Geller was sitting in the sand. “I’m from Colorado but I’ve lived here for the ...

Likes PB for stupidest reason

Names: Juli Redmerski and Don Hastings Ages: 57 and 55 From: Mission Bay and El Cajon Location: Tourmaline Surf Park It was a sunny day when I caught up with Juli Redmerski and Don Hastings ...

Bit her lip at Sunset Cliffs

Name: Masa Rogers Age: 40 From: East County Location: Tourmaline Surf Park On a crowded day in Tourmaline, Masa Rogers was walking to the showers while balancing a board over her head. “There’s a nice ...

Surfing changed my life

Name: Mike Age: 47 From: Ocean Beach Interviewed: Ocean Beach jetty Mike was ripping a large chunk of his board off. “Yeah, I knew this board needed to get retired. I heard it crack out ...

Like a runner going for a run

Name: Bruce Fearson Age: 56 From: Clairemont Interviewed: Ocean Beach jetty On a 75-degree day, Bruce Fearson had just finished his morning surf session. Fearson’s primary beach is Scripps, but OB is a close second. ...

At Black's you can cut off the foam board guy

Name: Isaac Lickona Age: 19 From: La Mesa Interview location: Mission Beach Jetty Isaac Lickona was washing off his board at the showers after a long surf session . “I was taught how to surf ...

October 8, 2018
Skip Frye saw me and shaped me a board

Name: Florencia Age: 39 From: La Jolla Interviewed at: Tourmaline Surf Park “I started surfing when I was a 23-year-old, but I got better when I moved to California from Mar De Plata, Argentina, because ...

Got fourth at Trestles

Name: Dave Hopper Age: 54 From: Midway district, Sports Arena Interview: Tourmaline Surf Park 54-year-old Dave Hopper started surfing at the age of 13. “My younger brother was surfing before me, so he gave me ...

Just dinged my board of preference.

Name: Scott Age: 26 From: Mission Beach Interview: South Mission Beach Scott was heading to the showers. “There are beaches that don’t have good waves that I’ll always avoid. Tourmaline, that’s a combination of bad ...

O.B. has a bit of everything

Name: Neil McCaffrey Age: 31 From: Ocean Beach Location: Ocean Beach Neil McCaffrey started surfing in Rhode Island at the age of ten. Twenty-one years later, he is surfing all around San Diego. On this ...

If you're a beginner, stay in Tourmaline

Name: Jules Nacario Age: 57 From: Mission Beach Location: South Mission Beach, Jetty Jules Nacario was walking up to the showers after a long surf session. “This is a pretty modern surf craft. It’s Tomo, ...

You just got to yell at people

Name: Bryce Victery Age: 26 From: Mission Beach Location: South Mission, Jetty It was a windy day at the jetty when Bryce Victery pulled his board out of the water after a morning surf. Victery ...

I saw the shark go past the tip of my board

Name: Steve Jones Age: 51 From: Chula Vista Location: Tourmaline Surf Park It was a cloudy day at Tourmaline when Steve Jones had finished his morning session. Jones has been surfing for ten years; he ...

I haven’t been yelled at too much

Name: Matt Nolan Age: 33 From: Mission Hills Location: Tourmaline Surf Park Matt Nolan has been surfing for three years. His main beaches are Tourmaline and La Jolla Shores, places that are good for beginner ...

Mission Beach sandbars not what they were

Name: Cory Age: 45 From: Mission Beach Location: North Mission Beach Cory was walking up to the showers past the boardwalk when I stopped to talk with him. “I’ve been surfing for 25 years. It’s ...

I'm still grabbing the rails

Name: Kris Manske Age: 43 Location: Ocean Beach Kris Manske was pulling a potato chip wrapper out of her wetsuit pocket right by the large lifeguard tower. “I found that out in the ocean”. Manske’s ...

I just like unusual shapes

Name: Jason Yamaoka Age: 39 Location: Ocean Beach Jason Yamaoka stood on the sand a couple hundred yards north of the Ocean Beach pier under a patchy May sky after a morning surf. Yamaoka grew ...

Seals and dolphins all the time

Name: Julian Malotti Age: 43 From: Clairemont Location: Ocean Beach It was a windy day at Ocean Beach when I approached Julian Malotti. “I’ve been surfing since 1986, when I was eleven. It’s a hobby, ...

Longboard first

Name: Joshua Beneventi Age: 24 From: Ocean Beach Location: Ocean Beach, near the Jetty Local surfer Joshua Beneventi has been surfing Ocean Beach since he was a kid. “I’ve been surfing on and off throughout ...

Around surfing, but played football

Name: Tyler Vasquez Age: 24 From: La Mesa Location: Ocean Beach Tyler Vasquez was sitting on the beach, watching the waves and other surfers. “My buddies surf a lot, so I came out with them ...

Guys with holes in wetsuits nar-doggin’ it

Name: Noah Roistacher Age: 22 From: the SDSU/College Area Location: Ocean Beach Noah Roistacher frequents O.B. a couple times a week. On this December early evening, Roistacher doesn’t mind the colder waters. “As long as ...

The swell last week was six feet

Name: Jonathan Hays Age: 20 From: Ocean Beach Location: Ocean Beach On a December afternoon in Ocean Beach, Jonathan Hays is considering getting a warmer wetsuit. “Yeah a wetsuit is a must [in the winter]. ...

Get barreled in Popotla

Name: Amanda Plesa Age: 23 From: Del Mar Location: Del Mar Beach Amanda Plesa has been a surf instructor for Fulcrum Surf School for five years. “We work with all the local high-schools and middle ...

November 7, 2017
San Diego surf spots — if it's crowded, it's crowded

Name: Evan Harris Age: 22 From: Del Mar Location: Torrey Pines Evan Harris was heading to the water when I caught up with him on a cloudy day in Torrey Pines. Harris finds himself at ...

October 31, 2017
El Cajon to La Jolla in the name of surf

Name: Margaret Sporleder Age: 20 From: El Cajon Occupation: Swim instructor and lifeguard Margaret Sporleder takes the 35-minute commute from El Cajon to La Jolla Shores. “The waves there don’t come in at an angle, ...

October 10, 2017
It can be dangerous in Windansea

Name: William Farris Age: 34 Location: Windansea Beach It was a crowded day in Windansea when I caught up to William Farris, on the corner of Neptune and Fern Glen. The San Diegan started surfing ...

September 11, 2017
Someone pushed me off the wave

Name: Derek Gerard Age: 13 Location: Ocean Beach Off Abbott Street, 13-year-old Derek Gerard was looking out at the water after a long surf session. “I just had a problem out there a couple of ...

September 4, 2017
Girls cheer each other on

Name: Carla Verbrugghen Age: 54 Location: Ocean Beach Occupation: Surf Instructor Carla Verbrugghen and her daughter were at the showers in OB when I meet up with them. Verbrugghen has been surfing since she was ...

August 28, 2017
Wetsuit gets stuck to my body

Name: Jonathan Du Age: 20 School: UCSD La Jolla Location: La Jolla Shores Near Life Tower 33 in La Jolla, Jonathan Du was heading to the showers after a day of surfing. The UCSD student ...

August 22, 2017
Don't fight it

Name: Ray Vanta Age: 62 From: Clairemont area. Location: Tourmaline Surf Park Vanta ‘s surfing career all started when his kids wanted to learn. “I wanted to be with them.” “For good surfing I go ...

August 15, 2017
We want to hug the ocean

Names: Holly Belasco and Heidi Johnson Ages: Both are 27 From: Imperial Beach and Mission Hills Location: Mission Beach Jetty Holly Belasco and Heidi Johnson surf together whenever they get the chance “When I saw ...

July 31, 2017
Pacific Beach has waves for both right and left

Name: Victor Taveira Age: 24 From: Point Loma Location: Tourmaline Surf Park “I usually go to OB, but it’s mostly right-hand waves, so I go over to Pacific Beach, because it has waves for both ...

Two dolphins jumped straight at us

Name: Jay Mrjenovich Age: 29 From: Mission Valley Location: Tourmaline Surf Park Four years ago, Jay Mryenovich moved from Chicago to San Diego so that he could live by the ocean. He then started surfing. ...

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