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I got the nose of my board through my lip

Hospital runs will happen

Sean Dunn: “This is a Tomo Evo and I freakin’ love it."
Sean Dunn: “This is a Tomo Evo and I freakin’ love it."
  • Name: Sean Dunn
  • Age: 24
  • From: Clairemont
  • Location: Ocean Beach

Sean Dunn was heading to the showers in Ocean Beach after a long surf session when I approached him.

Dunn learned how to surf here as a kid. “My dad would take me down here. I learned how to surf right over there in the jetty.  I remember him pushing me in the waves and dragging me out of rip currents. Dunn laughs, “he used to be a surfer but he’s too chubby now.”

Dunn’s biggest wipeout happened at Blacks. “There have been many wipeouts, but the biggest waves that I’ve fallen off of have been at Blacks Beach. I had one time when I got the nose of my board through my lip; that was super fun. Hospital runs will happen, but not most of the time. I think, in general, surfing is more safe than people think.”

Today Dunn is surfing with a new board. “This is a Tomo Evo and I freakin’ love it. I was really lucky to get it because they are pretty expensive, but my friend was getting rid of all his boards because he was moving and I got it off of him cheap. I have about eight boards. You kinda have to have a quiver of boards if you want to be serious.”

“My best surf experiences have been surfing down in Mexico with my friends… It’s cool to realize that my life has taken me places where I can do things like that. There’s just that moment when you think, ‘Oh shit, I get to do this’— and that’s pretty awesome.”

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“For three months, I existed only on yoga pants and sweatpants.”
Sean Dunn: “This is a Tomo Evo and I freakin’ love it."
Sean Dunn: “This is a Tomo Evo and I freakin’ love it."
  • Name: Sean Dunn
  • Age: 24
  • From: Clairemont
  • Location: Ocean Beach

Sean Dunn was heading to the showers in Ocean Beach after a long surf session when I approached him.

Dunn learned how to surf here as a kid. “My dad would take me down here. I learned how to surf right over there in the jetty.  I remember him pushing me in the waves and dragging me out of rip currents. Dunn laughs, “he used to be a surfer but he’s too chubby now.”

Dunn’s biggest wipeout happened at Blacks. “There have been many wipeouts, but the biggest waves that I’ve fallen off of have been at Blacks Beach. I had one time when I got the nose of my board through my lip; that was super fun. Hospital runs will happen, but not most of the time. I think, in general, surfing is more safe than people think.”

Today Dunn is surfing with a new board. “This is a Tomo Evo and I freakin’ love it. I was really lucky to get it because they are pretty expensive, but my friend was getting rid of all his boards because he was moving and I got it off of him cheap. I have about eight boards. You kinda have to have a quiver of boards if you want to be serious.”

“My best surf experiences have been surfing down in Mexico with my friends… It’s cool to realize that my life has taken me places where I can do things like that. There’s just that moment when you think, ‘Oh shit, I get to do this’— and that’s pretty awesome.”

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4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs
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