Surf Diego

Hit in the rib cage by board in Hawaii

I didn’t get stitches, I just put glue on it

Name: Clara Macculloch Age: 19 From: Sunset Cliffs Location: Sunset Cliffs Clara Macculloch was pulling her board out of her Dad’s car in Sunset Cliffs when we stopped to chat. “I live right at the ...

Started going down to Punta Mita in the 80s

Now it’s just like the Mexican Riviera

Name: Amy Lepine Age: 53 From: Ocean Beach Location: Sunset Cliffs Amy Lepine is an OB native and Sunset Cliffs is her beach. “This is a little slice of heaven here… I know a lot ...

Surfing meant partying, like the Gidget movie

I never told a girl’s parents that I was a surfer

Name: Michael Curtis Age: 69 From: Sunset Cliffs Location: Sunset Cliffs It was an overcast morning by the Sunset Cliff stairs when Michael Curtis and I started to chat. Curtis has been surfing since 1954. ...

Face first into coral reef in Fiji

Lucky to make it out alive

Amanda was surfing Cardiff Reef on her 9’6″ triple stinger when I reached out to her. “When I’m home I typically like to keep it mellow — I like to walk the board,” she said. ...

Surfed naked at Blacks Beach

I was 23 and living in New Mexico

Name: Shona Neufeld Age: 30 From: San Diego Location: Sunset Cliffs Shona Neufeld was walking to her car with board on head when I approached her. Neufeld is from Albuquerque, New Mexico, but she moved ...

Surfing is a sport, not a lifestyle

I guess people really take it spiritually

Name: Mark Kirchner Age: 57 From: Clairemont Location: Ocean Beach Mark Kirchner and I stopped to chat near the lifeguard tower. Kirchner has been surfing San Diego for about 25 years. “I don’t know what ...

Surfing kind of saved me from being an alcoholic

If I stay up drinking, I can’t paddle out

Name: James Age: 39 From: La Mesa Location: Ocean Beach Today, Ocean Beach is particularly crowded due to a surf school. I caught up with James as he was heading to the showers after a ...

Lost vision in the waves

A big board can knock you out

Name: Santiago Guadalupe Age: 30 From: Ocean Beach Location: Tourmaline Surf Park Santiago Guadalupe was heading to the showers, board on head, when we stopped to chat. “I just got this longboard. It’s a Murphy ...

The most terrifying thing is the stingray

I’m going to keep surfing until I can’t

Name: Doc Waske Age: 74 From: La Mesa Location: Tourmaline Surf Park On a sunny day in Pacific Beach, Don Waske was heading to the showers after a morning surf session. Waske started surfing San ...

In those days, we didn’t have a leash

It’s a great sport for people who are older

Name: Inge Morton Age: 80 From: Coronado Location: Tourmaline Surf Park Inge Morton was walking to the showers with board on her head when we stopped to chat. “I’ve been surfing here for 25 years, ...

I got the nose of my board through my lip

Hospital runs will happen

Name: Sean Dunn Age: 24 From: Clairemont Location: Ocean Beach Sean Dunn was heading to the showers in Ocean Beach after a long surf session when I approached him. Dunn learned how to surf here ...

You step on land, get in the car, and reality hits

If it’s surfable then I wanna try it

Name: Octavio Gonzalez Age: 39 From: Ocean Beach Location: Sunset Cliffs Octavio Gonzalez was sitting on a bench watching the surfers on the water when I stopped to chat. Gonzalez frequents Sunset Cliffs, “because it ...

You can’t just catch any wave, there’s a pecking order

I taught my son how to surf when he was about four

Name: Kevin Jimenez Age: 36 From: San Diego Location: Ocean Beach Kevin Jimenez was walking on the sidewalk toward Newport Avenue parking lot after a morning surf session. Jimenez usually surfs La Jolla, but today ...

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