Danny Dicola (37) surfs Solana Beach

Local?

Yes. I grew up Leucadia.

How often do you surf?

About twice a week.

When did you learn how to surf?

I started surfing when I was really young, probably about five years old. Growing up, I lived by the beach, so that made me attracted to the ocean. Board riding has gotten me into skateboarding, which is now my profession. I’m a professional skateboarder.

Which do you prefer, skating or surfing?

I love surfing more, just because it got me into skating.

Have you ever considered becoming a professional surfer?

I don’t think so. I’m getting kind of old. I don’t really believe that surfing or skateboarding should be competitive. It’s more something that is free and an art form than something that should be judged. I don’t really believe in competitions. I think it kind of brings out the worst in people. They get mad because they got 2nd or 3rd place, when really everyone is a winner if they are able to surf.

What days have been your most magical in the water?

Days where there are waves and there is no wind and there is sea life everywhere.

What do you love about surfing?

Being a surfer, you also become a marine biologist. You learn about the moon and the ocean and astronomy. Like right now—the tide is low, which has to do with the moon. The moon decides whether you are going to have fun or not.

Have you had any crazy surf injuries?

I get hurt a lot skateboarding, but the ocean will punish you. I have broken my nose. I have torn a ligament in my knee. The ocean can get you when you least expect it.

When you get hurt does it make you hesitant to go back out there?

There is not much that will keep me away from the ocean. Just the other day, down at George’s, a shark swam between my friend and I. We were more amazed by it than scared by it. This is where they live.

Is there surf etiquette you wish more surfers would follow?

Just smile. No one is above anyone else. Everyone is equal. If you are a really good surfer, don’t act like you are better than everyone else, because you are not. This has been said for decades: whoever is having the most fun is the best surfer.