Betty Christensen surfs La Jolla Shores

Local?

No, I am from Minnesota

What brought you to San Diego?

Mainly the weather

When did you learn how to surf?

I learned when I first moved here. I am still learning every time I go out there.

What has been the hardest surf skill for you to master?

Paddling! I am really bad at paddling.

Have you had any crazy wipe outs?

Yes, definitely I have had a couple of bad wipeouts where people have hit me in the head with their boards. One time I was hit so hard that the wind was knocked out of me.

Favorite beach to surf?

I like the Shores because I learned there. It is easy and fun to go with friends and not be too serious. But, if I actually want to get in some good waves, I’ll go to Blacks Beach. I like it because it is super secluded and not a lot of people like to go there, so I am not in anyone’s way and it is a great workout.

Are there any spots in San Diego that you are afraid to surf because you don’t feel ready for them yet?

Blacks Beach but I still go. I like going there to try.

What is the craziest thing you have seen in the water?

There was one time when I was surfing with a friend, and we were just sitting on our boards past the break. I was looking to my right when something on my left came up out of the water and splashed me. It was huge! I had no idea what it was. I was terrified. Turns out it was a seal, so it really wasn’t that scary. But not being from here, and just learning how to surf, I thought, “Oh, my God! It’s a shark! We are going to die!”

Do you have a favorite surfboard?

I used to borrow my friend’s board. But I just bought my first board. It’s a 7’ 6”. It’s just a basic beginning board.

What advice do you have for new surfers?

Respect the ocean. It’s very scary. Be careful. Never go surfing alone.

What do you love the most about surfing?

It is hard, so when you do catch a wave, it’s really incredible. You feel like you are on top of the world.