How often do you surf?

For the past ten months, I have managed to surf two or three times a week.

Have you seen a big improvement over 10 months?

Yes! I went from not being able to catch a wave and barely popping up, to being able to pop up and ride down any wave that I decide to paddle into.

Did anyone teach you how to surf?

YouTube. I watched lots and lots of YouTube videos. There are 4-5 channels that I follow with great beginner tutorials.

Do you ever get intimidated as a new surfer?

Yes! There is so much to think about when you are surfing. It can be either do or die. No one is ever rude, but I do have awkward moments because I am learning, and often there are things that I should be doing that I am not.

Have you had any injuries?

No major injuries. I got speared by a board in the leg because I panicked on a take-off. I pushed the board down and it tombstoned. Thankfully it did not hit me anywhere in the stomach. I have been hit in the head a couple of times. When people recommend starting with a foam board, you really should start with a foam board!

What kind of board did you start with?

I started with a 9’6”. I only surfed that for like two weeks. I just really wanted something shorter. It was not a smart idea, but I did some research on what the appropriate volume board for a beginning surfer was. That lead me to the Seaside & Beyond Rob Machado board.

Was it learning curve figuring out how to surf on that board?

Yes and no, because the board is really buoyant. If you know what you are doing, it is easy.

Have you spent a lot of money on your surfing hobby?

Yes, I don’t really want to think about it! I’m kind of an impulsive person so I’ve bought like 3 to 4 boards. I try to buy most of them used.

What is your favorite surf moment?

The very first time I managed to trim midface and not drop all the way down. It was an insane feeling for me because the boards I surf are really oversized. I surf them like a longboard, where I am not standing in the middle, but closer to the inner rail. So, I popped up and because I felt the wave building up, and made the split-second decision to commit to the side. If I didn’t, [the wave] was going to throw me. It worked! It was like riding a magic carpet! It was the greatest feeling ever!

Are there beaches in San Diego that you don’t think you are ready for yet?

I haven’t checked out Seaside and some spots up north because I don’t want to get in anyone’s way.

Have you gotten in the way of more seasoned surfers?

Yes! I had a funny moment where this guy forcefully helped me off a wave. I paddled in and he was deeper than me. As a beginner, I don’t always look behind me, so, I got in on this wave and I saw that he was already on his feet. I kind of panicked. I was just staring at him not sure what to do. He squatted on his surfboard and grabbed my rail and gave me a nice casual flip off the wave. He continued surfing. I was like, “Dude, I’m not even mad! That was amazing!”

Would do you love the most about surfing?

I have a lot of fun building autonomy with my body. You don’t realize how clumsy you are until you try something new. It’s like going back to school. You become more in tune with your body.