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Probably how Jesus felt when he was walking on water

No one I know knows I surf

Evion Martinez (21) surfs South Mission.
Evion Martinez (21) surfs South Mission.

Local?

Yes, I’m from the San Ysidro area.

How long have you been surfing?

I have always liked the water. My family is like deathly afraid, so they didn’t really let me go out there very much. It wasn’t until I turned 18 that I started going out. I always wanted to [surf].

Who took you out surfing for the fist time?

No one. I just went for it. I borrowed a board from my school. When I got there, it just felt like I was supposed to do this my entire life.

Were you really bad your first couple of times out?

Honestly, I thought I was going to be worse than I was. I got on [a wave] my first, or second try. I skated and played sports growing up, so I was in good shape for it.

How does your family feel about you surfing?

To this day, my mom will put on a shark movie anytime she knows I am planning on going surfing. So, I would say she is not very happy about it.

How often do you surf?

I used to surf maybe every weekend, but I have two jobs now, so I only go on my days off.

South Mission is known to be territorial. Do you have issues here?

Once in a while it feels that way. I’m a girl, so it can be really hard to get out there with the guys. Sometimes they will just jump in when you a prepping for a wave. Their surf etiquette isn’t always there. I mean, for every ten guys out there, there’s one of us girls. But I don’t care, I just go for it.

Do you normally surf with friends?

No, I usually go by myself. No one I know knows I surf.

Have you had any scary experiences in the water?

I saw a shark. It was the same day my mom put on Shark Week before I went surfing. I was at Silver Strand. The guys were being wave hogs, so I said ‘Okay, I’m going to go to the side.’ I was watching, looking for a wave when I saw a fin right across the water. Then it just disappeared. I put my feet on my board. I saw a group of guys and I just paddled as hard as a I could toward them. I didn’t want to seem like a giant baby because I was the only girl out there that day. I just causally said to them, “Hey guys, I just saw a shark,” Only three people got out. Everyone else acted like they didn’t care. But I saw a whole bunch of people put their feet on their boards. They were not going to act scared. But, I know deep down they were.

Did you paddle back in?

No, I stayed in the water! About ten minutes later a pod of dolphins surrounded us. I overheard these guys whisper, “Oh crap, I think she was right about the shark!”

Do you have a favorite surf moment?

Seeing that shark, definitely! I think about it all the time. I mean I should’ve gotten out of the water, but I am so stubborn. And I got to see a bunch of dolphins that day. It was great.

Advice for new surfers?

Surfing is hard. You have to know it’s not going to be perfect. Just go for it. There are lots of times when I hesitate, thinking, ‘I’m going to fall!’ You are going to fall! Just keep trying. Once you finally get up, it’s 100% worth it. It feels like you are flying. It feels probably how Jesus felt when he was walking on water. It’s the greatest feeling ever.

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Evion Martinez (21) surfs South Mission.
Evion Martinez (21) surfs South Mission.

Local?

Yes, I’m from the San Ysidro area.

How long have you been surfing?

I have always liked the water. My family is like deathly afraid, so they didn’t really let me go out there very much. It wasn’t until I turned 18 that I started going out. I always wanted to [surf].

Who took you out surfing for the fist time?

No one. I just went for it. I borrowed a board from my school. When I got there, it just felt like I was supposed to do this my entire life.

Were you really bad your first couple of times out?

Honestly, I thought I was going to be worse than I was. I got on [a wave] my first, or second try. I skated and played sports growing up, so I was in good shape for it.

How does your family feel about you surfing?

To this day, my mom will put on a shark movie anytime she knows I am planning on going surfing. So, I would say she is not very happy about it.

How often do you surf?

I used to surf maybe every weekend, but I have two jobs now, so I only go on my days off.

South Mission is known to be territorial. Do you have issues here?

Once in a while it feels that way. I’m a girl, so it can be really hard to get out there with the guys. Sometimes they will just jump in when you a prepping for a wave. Their surf etiquette isn’t always there. I mean, for every ten guys out there, there’s one of us girls. But I don’t care, I just go for it.

Do you normally surf with friends?

No, I usually go by myself. No one I know knows I surf.

Have you had any scary experiences in the water?

I saw a shark. It was the same day my mom put on Shark Week before I went surfing. I was at Silver Strand. The guys were being wave hogs, so I said ‘Okay, I’m going to go to the side.’ I was watching, looking for a wave when I saw a fin right across the water. Then it just disappeared. I put my feet on my board. I saw a group of guys and I just paddled as hard as a I could toward them. I didn’t want to seem like a giant baby because I was the only girl out there that day. I just causally said to them, “Hey guys, I just saw a shark,” Only three people got out. Everyone else acted like they didn’t care. But I saw a whole bunch of people put their feet on their boards. They were not going to act scared. But, I know deep down they were.

Did you paddle back in?

No, I stayed in the water! About ten minutes later a pod of dolphins surrounded us. I overheard these guys whisper, “Oh crap, I think she was right about the shark!”

Do you have a favorite surf moment?

Seeing that shark, definitely! I think about it all the time. I mean I should’ve gotten out of the water, but I am so stubborn. And I got to see a bunch of dolphins that day. It was great.

Advice for new surfers?

Surfing is hard. You have to know it’s not going to be perfect. Just go for it. There are lots of times when I hesitate, thinking, ‘I’m going to fall!’ You are going to fall! Just keep trying. Once you finally get up, it’s 100% worth it. It feels like you are flying. It feels probably how Jesus felt when he was walking on water. It’s the greatest feeling ever.

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