4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs

Surfing secluded breaks makes it much more of an adventure.

Surfing alone is a good way to clear your mind

Andrew(18) surfs Abs off of PLNU campus
Andrew(18) surfs Abs off of PLNU campus

Do you go to school here?

No, I am in high school. I go to the Waldorf School.

Are you ditching school right now to surf?

No… I mean, kind of. It’s senior ditch day.

Are you going to college near a surf break?

Yeah, I am going to University of Miami. I can still surf but it’s way across the country! The only beach to surf there really is South Beach.

Do you surf every day?

I used to, but now it’s like 2-3 times a week.

How many boards do you have?

Around 20. I collect used boards. I buy them on OfferUp and Craigslist.

Do you have a favorite surf spot?

That’s a tough one. I mean, when I surf, it’s usually here (Abs), Subs, or Sunset Cliffs. You can walk down this beach all the way to the military base, but then they block you off. You can’t go further on land. I really like to walk down here and go to secluded breaks. It makes it much more of an adventure. I try to get away from the local crews. They can be aggressive, but they won’t get aggressive unless you make them get aggressive. It’s easier to just surf by yourself.

Do you always surf solo?

No, I go with friends. Surfing is a super fun social activity for me, but it’s also really nice to just go by yourself to clear your mind.

How long have you been surfing?

Since I was 7. My grandpa bought me a board for Christmas because he used to surf when he was a kid. My dad would take me down to Coronado and just push me into waves. That’s how it all started.

Are you pretty good?

I am above average. But, for me, it’s not about being good. It’s about practicing and having fun. I just want to enjoy it and be at peace with surfing. When you are out there, it’s so relaxing—you are just so focused on watching the waves to see which one to catch. It’s relaxing, but still very thrilling and exciting.

Here's something you might be interested in.
Submit a free classified
or view all

Previous article

A moment of reckoning at San Diego’s Diversionary Theatre

Our Gay Oppressors
Next Article

Paul Verlaine: an Arthur Rimbaud love quarrel

He was also a prominent member of two late-19th-century literary movements
Andrew(18) surfs Abs off of PLNU campus
Andrew(18) surfs Abs off of PLNU campus

Do you go to school here?

No, I am in high school. I go to the Waldorf School.

Are you ditching school right now to surf?

No… I mean, kind of. It’s senior ditch day.

Are you going to college near a surf break?

Yeah, I am going to University of Miami. I can still surf but it’s way across the country! The only beach to surf there really is South Beach.

Do you surf every day?

I used to, but now it’s like 2-3 times a week.

How many boards do you have?

Around 20. I collect used boards. I buy them on OfferUp and Craigslist.

Do you have a favorite surf spot?

That’s a tough one. I mean, when I surf, it’s usually here (Abs), Subs, or Sunset Cliffs. You can walk down this beach all the way to the military base, but then they block you off. You can’t go further on land. I really like to walk down here and go to secluded breaks. It makes it much more of an adventure. I try to get away from the local crews. They can be aggressive, but they won’t get aggressive unless you make them get aggressive. It’s easier to just surf by yourself.

Do you always surf solo?

No, I go with friends. Surfing is a super fun social activity for me, but it’s also really nice to just go by yourself to clear your mind.

How long have you been surfing?

Since I was 7. My grandpa bought me a board for Christmas because he used to surf when he was a kid. My dad would take me down to Coronado and just push me into waves. That’s how it all started.

Are you pretty good?

I am above average. But, for me, it’s not about being good. It’s about practicing and having fun. I just want to enjoy it and be at peace with surfing. When you are out there, it’s so relaxing—you are just so focused on watching the waves to see which one to catch. It’s relaxing, but still very thrilling and exciting.

Sponsored
Here's something you might be interested in.
Submit a free classified
or view all
Previous article

Pelicans, seagulls upchuck anchovies in flight

Bluefin give way to yellowfin, yellowtail, dorado
Next Article

Be habitual, baby!

Timing is the toughest surf skill to master
Comments
0

Be the first to leave a comment.

Sign in to comment

Sign in

Ask a Hipster — Advice you didn't know you needed Big Screen — Movie commentary Blurt — Music's inside track Booze News — San Diego spirits Classical Music — Immortal beauty Classifieds — Free and easy Cover Stories — Front-page features Drinks All Around — Bartenders' drink recipes Excerpts — Literary and spiritual excerpts Feast! — Food & drink reviews Feature Stories — Local news & stories Fishing Report — What’s getting hooked from ship and shore From the Archives — Spotlight on the past Golden Dreams — Talk of the town The Gonzo Report — Making the musical scene, or at least reporting from it Letters — Our inbox [email protected] — Local movie buffs share favorites Movie Reviews — Our critics' picks and pans Musician Interviews — Up close with local artists Neighborhood News from Stringers — Hyperlocal news News Ticker — News & politics Obermeyer — San Diego politics illustrated Outdoors — Weekly changes in flora and fauna Overheard in San Diego — Eavesdropping illustrated Poetry — The old and the new Reader Travel — Travel section built by travelers Reading — The hunt for intellectuals Roam-O-Rama — SoCal's best hiking/biking trails San Diego Beer — Inside San Diego suds SD on the QT — Almost factual news Sheep and Goats — Places of worship Special Issues — The best of Street Style — San Diego streets have style Surf Diego — Real stories from those braving the waves Theater — On stage in San Diego this week Tin Fork — Silver spoon alternative Under the Radar — Matt Potter's undercover work Unforgettable — Long-ago San Diego Unreal Estate — San Diego's priciest pads Your Week — Daily event picks
4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs
Close