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Surf Diego

"My first week out after breaking my back, I got barreled at Rincon"

Are you a local? No, I’m from Illinois. I moved to California after reaching a point in my life where I was like, I can either go this way and know what the rest of ...

February 22, 2022
Seals are the real locals

How long have you been surfing? Chris: We're brothers. Our dad started taking us out surfing when we were like 6. Tom: It was really tough learning. I gave up probably after the first year. ...

February 15, 2022
“I would appreciate it if locals were nicer to people like us who drive an hour just to surf.”

What brought you out this far away from South Pasadena? Grant: We came for the swell! How often do you guys surf? Will: As much as we can. Jaden: If the waves are good, like ...

February 8, 2022
Snapped his board in half

I found Chad surfing at the Ocean Beach Pier. “One day last year, Coronado was like Tahiti and Hawaii,” he said. "Anybody who surfs out here knows that Coronado has no surf." But this day ...

February 1, 2022
"Anticipating what the waves are going to do, is definitely the hardest part."

Are you a local? No, I’m originally from Michigan. I moved out here about 4 years ago. How long have you been surfing? I have been surfing for 4 years. I grew up wakeboarding and ...

January 25, 2022
"Meet every moment as a friend, and don’t try to change things"

How long have you been surfing? About 3 years. I have always loved snowboarding and it is kind of the same mentality. The body mechanics are very similar, it was an easy transition for me. ...

January 18, 2022
Find a group of friends that you can suck with.

Are you a local? I grew up here, but I live in Chicago now. I’m here visiting my family. Favorite thing about surfing? I like the fun of progressing. It’s a technical skill that’s very ...

January 11, 2022
“I like getting out of the concrete jungle and getting lost out there.”

How long have you been surfing? Erik: “I have been out in the ocean since I was 6 or 7 and surfing since I was 10.” Kristen: “I started surfing when I was around 6.” ...

December 21, 2021
People start getting agro on a 2-foot day

Local? “No. I’m from Riverside.” How long have you been surfing? 2 years. What motivated you to take up the hobby? “I moved [to PB] two years ago. My roommate is really into surfing and ...

December 7, 2021
Short boards easier to manuever

Jonathan Du: “My board is a fish board, a six footer. I prefer short boards over long boards, they are easier to maneuver, more for tricks. Today the surf was good for a short board. ...

November 30, 2021
It’s not just about surfing, it’s being out there in the water.

Locals? Cody: Yes! Severin: No, I am originally From Bern, Switzerland. How often do you surf? Severin: 3-4 times a week Cody: maybe 2-3 times a week How long have you been surfing? Severin: 2 ...

November 23, 2021
“Whenever I go to a brand-new spot, it’s always really special.”

Are you a local? Yes How long have you been surfing? Probably close to ten or twelve years. I have been in the water my whole life. My dad was a big-time surfer back in ...

November 16, 2021
Pacific Beach better for goofy

Victor Taveira: “I usually go to OB, but it’s mostly right-hand waves, so I go over to Pacific Beach, because it has waves for both right and left hands. I’m goofy, but I’m getting better ...

November 9, 2021

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