Are you a Local? No, I’m from Sweden but I live in Canada. How long have you been surfing? This is my 4th time surfing. I went to Portugal in 2019 and I did my …
May 3, 2022
Surf Diego
A Canadian Swede surfs La Jolla Shores
“Try to be present in the water and enjoy it for what it is.”
Local? No. I am originally from outside of Chicago How long have you been surfing? I started about 5 years ago when I came out here as a UCSD undergrad student. How often do you …
April 26, 2022
I came out here for cliff jumping but I picked up surfing
Local? Nope, New Hampshire native How did you get into surfing? I’ve been living in California for the last three years. Originally, I came out here for cliff jumping but I picked up surfing. I’ve …
April 19, 2022
When people recommend starting with a foam board, you really should start with a foam board!
How often do you surf? For the past ten months, I have managed to surf two or three times a week. Have you seen a big improvement over 10 months? Yes! I went from not …
April 5, 2022
Probably how Jesus felt when he was walking on water
Local? Yes, I’m from the San Ysidro area. How long have you been surfing? I have always liked the water. My family is like deathly afraid, so they didn’t really let me go out there …
March 29, 2022
In my younger years, school wasn’t my thing. Surfing was.
Local? I am from Encinitas, and I work in Coronado as a lifeguard. How long have you been surfing? 30 years. My whole family surfs—my dad, my uncle, my cousins, my brother. I started when …
March 15, 2022
“Sometimes at Blacks, the dolphins will jump over you.”
Local? Yes, I’m from Bonita. I live in Chula Vista now. My commute [to this beach] is only about 10 minutes. When did you take up surfing? About 9 years ago. I started after high …
March 8, 2022
“I am like, ‘Let’s get in there and do it!’”
Local? No I am originally from Bakersfield. I am a pipe fitter, so I travel around a lot for work. I’ve been in Ocean Beach for the last 6 months. When did you start surfing? …
March 1, 2022
"My first week out after breaking my back, I got barreled at Rincon"
Are you a local? No, I’m from Illinois. I moved to California after reaching a point in my life where I was like, I can either go this way and know what the rest of …
February 22, 2022
Seals are the real locals
How long have you been surfing? Chris: We're brothers. Our dad started taking us out surfing when we were like 6. Tom: It was really tough learning. I gave up probably after the first year. …
February 15, 2022
“I would appreciate it if locals were nicer to people like us who drive an hour just to surf.”
What brought you out this far away from South Pasadena? Grant: We came for the swell! How often do you guys surf? Will: As much as we can. Jaden: If the waves are good, like …
February 8, 2022
Snapped his board in half
I found Chad surfing at the Ocean Beach Pier. “One day last year, Coronado was like Tahiti and Hawaii,” he said. "Anybody who surfs out here knows that Coronado has no surf." But this day …
February 1, 2022
"Anticipating what the waves are going to do, is definitely the hardest part."
Are you a local? No, I’m originally from Michigan. I moved out here about 4 years ago. How long have you been surfing? I have been surfing for 4 years. I grew up wakeboarding and …
January 25, 2022