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"Meet every moment as a friend, and don’t try to change things"

That is what the ocean has taught me.

47-year-old Jilian Skog surfs Blacks Beach.
47-year-old Jilian Skog surfs Blacks Beach.

How long have you been surfing?

About 3 years. I have always loved snowboarding and it is kind of the same mentality. The body mechanics are very similar, it was an easy transition for me. The challenge was, that in snowboarding, the ground is not moving. In surfing, the water is moving as well as your board so it’s a bit more difficult. Luckily, when you fall, it doesn’t hurt like in snowboarding.

Do prefer surfing over snowboarding?

I love both sports equally. I love the mountains and I love the water. I am pretty much in the mountains in the winter and in the water in the summer. Now that I am surfing more frequently, I have found myself in the water all year round.

When did surfing click for you?

It took me a couple of years. I started [going to a] surf meetup. That helped. It was free lessons, free boards, free wetsuits, and all that. It was a beginner’s group—all ages, all backgrounds, anyone who wanted to come out. When I got a little confident, I bought this board and my wetsuit.

Favorite surf moment?

Surfing in Hawaii. It was awesome. The waves are so long. It’s warm weather and warm water. There is something different about the water there. It’s very airy. I got a little intimidated surfing there just because of the reputation but I started out at a beginner’s beach. I had an instructor with me, so I always felt protected.

Has it taken you a while to work up to surfing certain beaches?

Yes. I learned at La Jolla Shores. As I became more confident, I ventured out to [Tourmaline]. I did a surf clinic at Black’s Beach a few weeks ago. That was a little bit more challenging. I need more practice at Black’s Beach. I like this beach. It’s a little more forgiving.

How often do you go surfing?

I usually go once a week

Advice to new surfers?

Have fun. Have a good attitude. Don’t give up. Don’t let that first wave intimidate you. Go with the flow and enjoy yourself. Let the wave be your friend. Don’t try to control it. If it wants to take you a certain way, just go with it. That is my analogy for life. Meet every moment as a friend, and don’t try to change things. That is what the ocean has taught me. I actually have that tattooed on my body.

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47-year-old Jilian Skog surfs Blacks Beach.
47-year-old Jilian Skog surfs Blacks Beach.

How long have you been surfing?

About 3 years. I have always loved snowboarding and it is kind of the same mentality. The body mechanics are very similar, it was an easy transition for me. The challenge was, that in snowboarding, the ground is not moving. In surfing, the water is moving as well as your board so it’s a bit more difficult. Luckily, when you fall, it doesn’t hurt like in snowboarding.

Do prefer surfing over snowboarding?

I love both sports equally. I love the mountains and I love the water. I am pretty much in the mountains in the winter and in the water in the summer. Now that I am surfing more frequently, I have found myself in the water all year round.

When did surfing click for you?

It took me a couple of years. I started [going to a] surf meetup. That helped. It was free lessons, free boards, free wetsuits, and all that. It was a beginner’s group—all ages, all backgrounds, anyone who wanted to come out. When I got a little confident, I bought this board and my wetsuit.

Favorite surf moment?

Surfing in Hawaii. It was awesome. The waves are so long. It’s warm weather and warm water. There is something different about the water there. It’s very airy. I got a little intimidated surfing there just because of the reputation but I started out at a beginner’s beach. I had an instructor with me, so I always felt protected.

Has it taken you a while to work up to surfing certain beaches?

Yes. I learned at La Jolla Shores. As I became more confident, I ventured out to [Tourmaline]. I did a surf clinic at Black’s Beach a few weeks ago. That was a little bit more challenging. I need more practice at Black’s Beach. I like this beach. It’s a little more forgiving.

How often do you go surfing?

I usually go once a week

Advice to new surfers?

Have fun. Have a good attitude. Don’t give up. Don’t let that first wave intimidate you. Go with the flow and enjoy yourself. Let the wave be your friend. Don’t try to control it. If it wants to take you a certain way, just go with it. That is my analogy for life. Meet every moment as a friend, and don’t try to change things. That is what the ocean has taught me. I actually have that tattooed on my body.

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