Sam: “If I don’t surf for a few days, I’m cranky and irritable."

• Name: Sam
• Age: 36
• From: Ocean Beach
• Location: Ocean Beach

I met up to chat with Sam at the Newport Avenue parking lot in Ocean Beach. OB is Sam’s local spot, despite occasional crowds and “trolls”. “I started surfing 18 years ago. I’m originally from Ventura County, so I started up there.” Sam laughs, “I mostly learned by having people yell at me about what to do.”

Today, Sam is surfing with a 6’8” board by Mini Mod Boardworks. “It’s designed in San Diego but it is machine made. I didn’t support local shapers on this one. I only have two boards because I’m not big on the quiver. I philosophize that you should have just two boards, one for shitty swell and one for good surf.”

In addition to San Diego swell, Sam has surfed Costa Rica, Mexico, and Hawaii. “I’d call those local, and out of all the places around the world those are pretty docile. My favorite spot, though, is Sunset Cliffs. It’s just a world-class wave, and it’s so close.”

“Surfing is my life.  If I don’t surf for a few days, I’m cranky and irritable. I don’t even have to surf, just being in the ocean at least once every few days. It’s not a hobby— it’s my life. I tell beginners that nothing compares to time in the water. You’re gonna get a couple hits, but just spend as much time in the ocean as possible, every day, if you can.”