"I did the YMCA Aquatics Camp when I was eight."

• Name: Scott
• Age: 26
• From: Mission Beach
• Interview: South Mission Beach

Scott was heading to the showers.

“There are beaches that don’t have good waves that I’ll always avoid. Tourmaline, that’s a combination of bad waves and crowds. La Jolla Shores and the Scripps area right by UCSD, I like surfing there but it gets very crowded.

“I just dinged my board of preference. This board is a unique design. It’s designed by a guy named Daniel Thompson, who was shaving out of North County, an Australian guy. I won’t pretend to know all the science behind it. I think the idea is that this board is essentially a much longer board with the nose chopped off, so you get a similar amount of volume as you would in a longer board, but because you don’t have all that extra nose to maneuver, you can turn it like it’s a shorter board. It acts a little bit like a sports car.

“I surfed for the first time in my life at Mission Beach. I did the YMCA Aquatics Camp when I was eight years old, and they made us carry these big long foam boards, those things weigh about 30 pounds. From the aquatic center, all the way across the road from Mission Beach!”

“I took a surf trip to Biarritz to the south of France where it gets pretty sizable. I was in high school and got worked pretty badly. That was probably the worst I’ve experienced.”