Quantcast
4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs

Surfing kind of saved me from being an alcoholic

If I stay up drinking, I can’t paddle out

James: "The wave straight dunked me and tunneled me."
James: "The wave straight dunked me and tunneled me."
  • Name: James
  • Age: 39
  • From: La Mesa
  • Location: Ocean Beach

Today, Ocean Beach is particularly crowded due to a surf school. I caught up with James as he was heading to the showers after a morning surf.

“In the summer the crowds bother me a little bit. It can get a little hairy sometimes. I’m more worried about running into tourists with my board because I don’t want to hurt anybody. That’s what I get scared of the most. I haven’t had any head-on collisions here at Ocean Beach, but I have at other beaches.”

James has been surfing for nine years. “I was stationed here in the Marines… Surfing kind of saved me from being an alcoholic. It gets me out there and moving and if I stay up drinking all night the night before, I can’t really paddle out the next morning.”

James’ most embarrassing surf moment: “When I first was learning I didn’t know where to go, so I went down to Blacks with a huge foam board.”

“I paddled out to the line up and these two guys started smiling at me and I was like, ‘What are they smiling at?’  Well I took off to catch one of the waves that was way too above my skill level at the time, and it straight dunked me and tunneled me.” It seemed like eternity until I got back up and I said, ‘Oh, that’s why they were smiling.’ So that was definitely a humbling experience.”

Here's something you might be interested in.
Submit a free classified
or view all

Previous article

Praga: Italian at a Czech restaurant in Mexico

Not many pedestrians. No mariachis. And definitely no striped zebra-donkeys.
Next Article

The unsinkable Linda Broyles

“I mean, when they said I couldn’t go home, I could see Coronado!”
James: "The wave straight dunked me and tunneled me."
James: "The wave straight dunked me and tunneled me."
  • Name: James
  • Age: 39
  • From: La Mesa
  • Location: Ocean Beach

Today, Ocean Beach is particularly crowded due to a surf school. I caught up with James as he was heading to the showers after a morning surf.

“In the summer the crowds bother me a little bit. It can get a little hairy sometimes. I’m more worried about running into tourists with my board because I don’t want to hurt anybody. That’s what I get scared of the most. I haven’t had any head-on collisions here at Ocean Beach, but I have at other beaches.”

James has been surfing for nine years. “I was stationed here in the Marines… Surfing kind of saved me from being an alcoholic. It gets me out there and moving and if I stay up drinking all night the night before, I can’t really paddle out the next morning.”

James’ most embarrassing surf moment: “When I first was learning I didn’t know where to go, so I went down to Blacks with a huge foam board.”

“I paddled out to the line up and these two guys started smiling at me and I was like, ‘What are they smiling at?’  Well I took off to catch one of the waves that was way too above my skill level at the time, and it straight dunked me and tunneled me.” It seemed like eternity until I got back up and I said, ‘Oh, that’s why they were smiling.’ So that was definitely a humbling experience.”

Sponsored
Here's something you might be interested in.
Submit a free classified
or view all
Previous article

The Red, White, and Blue can never tell a lie: San Diego was the place to be for the Fourth of July!

America’s Finest County
Next Article

Unexpected views from some San Diego African Americans

"I don't care if you're black or white"
Comments
0

Be the first to leave a comment.

Sign in to comment

Sign in

Art Reviews — W.S. Di Piero's eye on exhibits Ask a Hipster — Advice you didn't know you needed Best Buys — San Diego shopping Big Screen — Movie commentary Blurt — Music's inside track Booze News — San Diego spirits City Lights — News and politics Classical Music — Immortal beauty Classifieds — Free and easy Cover Stories — Front-page features Excerpts — Literary and spiritual excerpts Famous Former Neighbors — Next-door celebs Feast! — Food & drink reviews Feature Stories — Local news & stories From the Archives — Spotlight on the past Golden Dreams — Talk of the town Here's the Deal — Chad Deal's watering holes Just Announced — The scoop on shows Letters — Our inbox [email protected] — Local movie buffs share favorites Movie Reviews — Our critics' picks and pans Musician Interviews — Up close with local artists Neighborhood News from Stringers — Hyperlocal news News Ticker — News & politics Obermeyer — San Diego politics illustrated Of Note — Concert picks Out & About — What's Happening Overheard in San Diego — Eavesdropping illustrated Poetry — The old and the new Pour Over — Grab a cup Reader Travel — Travel section built by travelers Reading — The hunt for intellectuals Roam-O-Rama — SoCal's best hiking/biking trails San Diego Beer News — Inside San Diego suds SD on the QT — Almost factual news Set 'em Up Joe — Bartenders' drink recipes Sheep and Goats — Places of worship Special Issues — The best of Sports — Athletics without gush Street Style — San Diego streets have style Suit Up — Fashion tips for dudes Theater Reviews — Local productions Theater antireviews — Narrow your search Tin Fork — Silver spoon alternative Under the Radar — Matt Potter's undercover work Unforgettable — Long-ago San Diego Unreal Estate — San Diego's priciest pads Waterfront — All things ocean Your Week — Daily event picks
4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs
Close