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Stories by Ed Bedford

At Jimmy's Famous, stuffed like an overnight bag

Just imagine: A shipload of starving, scurvy-ridden Spanish sailors struggling ashore through the tidal mud flats and seeing...this? A deck full of tourists and well-heeled Diegans scarfing away at ribs, burgers, and cervezas? They missed …

Like the real chitlin

It’s Winona! Winona Ryder! You would swear. Straight out of The Age of Innocence. Those eyes, that quizzical smile. Okay, Winona turns out to be Amy. She’s helping run the bar of this terrazza in …

July 20, 2016
Tender is the meat at Center Cut Steakhouse

At first, I’m thinking Tacos El Gordo, because it’s near Chula Vista’s H Street trolley. Then I go in. Wall-to-wall! Three lines stretching right to the doors. Fuggedaboutit. And, actually, a steak’s what I’ve got …

July 13, 2016
Dumb and tender

"Over here!” It’s the beautiful Carla. Fresh from her frou-frou session at Diane’s salon (“Diane is the only person in this world who understands my coiffure needs, darling”) here on the Emerald Isle of Coronado. …

July 6, 2016
A shrimp taco at the Market Hall

This was where I learned to appreciate the humble carrot. It started simply enough. I was heading along Market past that cool newish condo tower Strata, when I came across this sign: “Café Now Open.” …

Pupusa ceremony

"You can sit over here if you like,” says this guy over in the booth. He’s noticed me craning my head to catch the Costa Rica game. Against mighty Colombia. Copa América. David and Goliath. …

June 22, 2016
No mashed gristle

Hmm... Which whiskey? The Glenfiddich 40-year-old costs $1049 per shot. A jigger of Benchmark costs $1. I hesitate. “Gimme the Gl…Glenfid…d’uh, no. I guess I’ll take the Benchmark,” I say. The $1 Benchmark is part …

Too much deliciosity

I arrived too early. For Ramadan, that is. This was before last Sunday, when Ramadan began. I came because I was curious about what you eat if you are Muslim and fasting for the month. …

June 8, 2016
Goat-bloated from Café Royale

It’s the kids. They’re all over the table. And into the spaghetti and goat. All except Anas and Khalid. The two older boys are plowing into their own plate of chicken drumsticks. Their dad has …

June 1, 2016
Raise an unlimited joe to long-dead Yankee Jim

He thought they were joking. Even when they had him standing on a horse-drawn dray with a rope around his neck. All he’d done was go for a joyride in a rowboat. He called it …

May 25, 2016
Burger phase continues in Carlsbad

“But whatever you do,” he says confidentially, “don’t eat crabs from Southern California.”

San Diego Reader 2016 taco issue

Photo by Andy BoydAsada days and adobada nights — A little taste of Loreto in San Diego. by Mary Beth AbateTacos where you least expect them — Looking beyond standard tacolandia. By Ed BedfordTaco mecca …

May 11, 2016
Hit Cabo Wabo #2, scarf a big burger

Fish tacos, 99 cents? With all the taco talk this week, how come I missed this place? I should have seen the taco deal on the signs outside. But I was busy trying to figure …

Tacos where you least expect them

Here’s what I was thinking: ever since Glen Bell ran with the hard-shell taco idea and created Taco Bell back in the 1950s, tacos have become part of our landscape. Except now the real taco …

Glass Door fails to grab my gut

You know the theory: restaurants with great views rest on their location laurels.

May 4, 2016
Carlsbad Aloha

"Drink this. It’s 9500 years old.” The lady’s thrusting a glass of what looks like water at me in front of this food truck, “California Braise.” Truck’s new around here. And they serve this Carlsbad …

April 27, 2016
The best duck larb I can remember

Took a gamble tonight. I spotted this sign: “Lucky Lady, Casino Restaurant & Bar.” Hmm... Casino restaurant? Looking through the windows, I see about a dozen gaming tables, all crowded. And this is a Monday …

April 20, 2016
Lunging into a burger in the People’s Penthouse

I am the captain of my ship. I stride my bridge deck. I scan the scuddy blue seaway ahead of me. Tallships bob everywhere below. That’s how it feels anyway. Star of India, HMS Surprise, …

April 13, 2016
Gaslamp prices, but Lazy Hippo is still a find

Mary Smith sat here. So did a lot of her ladies of the night. So did the mayor of San Diego. They say he was a client. But that was the Gilded Age. It was …

Crisp Fish ’N’ Chips makes dreams come true

Oh, man. Ria wants nuts and twigs. I’m dreaming of fish and chips. Splots of malt vinegar. Cocktail sauce. Greasy, crispy chunks of cod. “Ho-kay,” says Ria. “Your funeral, buddy. Know how many calories and …

March 30, 2016
There’s always the Hyatt

So it’s like two. In the morning. Everything is closing down, or they’re not happy to see you walk in. But you’ve gotta have a snack before you head home. Gaslamp may have a few …

Cuckoo for cucarachas at Mariscos El Pulpo

Cucarachas? Never thought I’d be eating them tonight. But, Barrio Logan is full of surprises. This new Baja bar-eatery, El Pulpo, has sprouted up in what’s becoming “downtown” Barrio Logan. Tonight, Friday, sunset’s glowering over …

Squelch, tang, and crunch at Striders Clublounge

“Usually, you’ll hear the roar down here, guys yelling when a race is entering the last stretch.”

March 16, 2016
Future fast food

“The methane that cattle produce warms the world 20 times faster than auto emissions.”

March 9, 2016
Order up: the most expensive thing at El Carrito Nuevo

“No!” says Carmen. “Finish first. You will eat my camarones hot.”

March 2, 2016
Unhinge your jaw for some luscious Oh My! tacos

Out on Park. Just come from NewSchool of Architecture. Lecture by this guy who wants to “depave” the world and “rewild” the cities. Oh, man, if only we could. Of course, the talk and questions …

February 24, 2016
Raiding Lucky Liu’s kitchen to say Happy New Year

“Shin-nyen kwhy-ler,” says Dong Ha. “Happy New Year! Mandarin. What they’d say in Beijing.”

February 17, 2016
Misunderstanding at the Wow Café

“He wants some food,” says Marianna. “But he only eats raw fish.”

February 10, 2016
Dive into a Stars & Stripes hot tuna at Club Marina

Hmm... Keep thinking of that warm bar with the hugging hostess.

February 3, 2016
Avocado-smooshed toast and sweet, beety beauty

I was passing 15th and J the other evening. The pinnacle apartment tower was all lit up, advertising rental apartments from $2K to $10K per month. But where do all those gentrified renters go to …

Tastebud invasion by a Tijuana torta

Five minutes later she arrives with my steaming torta. All wrapped in its own papoose.

January 27, 2016
Wiggling fish wig

Running into the god of fertility and foxes in the Gaslamp.

Out of the rain, into some turkey

It’s 6:30 at night. Dark already. The rain’s dropping in sudden downpours and then disappearing. Tents line the chain-link fence of the vacant block on J Street. And then, in the gloom, you realize those …

An omelet as big as a pregnant armadillo

“Our regulars?” she says when I ask what they eat. “Anything with gravy. Lakeside loves gravy.”

January 13, 2016
Naughty breakfast

‘Do you know how to operate this projector?” asked H.R. Haldeman, President Nixon’s chief of staff. “Sure,” said Tony Vasquez. And from that day on, Tony, the guy sitting next to me at the counter, …

January 6, 2016
Disgustingly good

“Let’s stop right here, take it all home. Then fry it all up for breakfast tomorrow. Yes?”

While I.B. is still I.B.

“Name’s Ken,” says the guy on the right. “As in ‘Ken, still looking for Barbie.’"

December 23, 2015
Chicken climax

“It’s fresh, not processed, and have you ever seen a fat Japanese guy? Except for sumo wrestlers?”

December 16, 2015
IB Street Tacos

The sign looks new: IB Street Tacos. Now Open. It’s been slung up on a banner above the street frontage. Always suspicious when a place says it has “street tacos.” Means it’s actually middle class, …

Man’s brekky here

Good to have nice, big eggs with floods of bright yellow yolk.

PhD in coffee and tea. Plus couscous.

My knowledge of coffee? It ranges from joe with milk to joe “au naturel.” So when I happened upon this new (couple of months, max) Place-With-No-Name (at least as far as outside signage) at J …

The fridge between worlds

“It’s the border,” Rodrigo says. “So crazy. It stops good things happening all the time.”

December 2, 2015
Au revoir to noir

I went here before the Paris massacre. Now I’m glad I did. Because it makes you remember what it is you love about the French. Like, Paris, and the café life they gave the world. …

Smokin’ big

You feel a little awestruck just walking around here. This is Scripps, maybe the biggest concentration of brainpower west of Harvard Square. Everyone has to have a PhD to even get in the door, seems …

November 18, 2015
The bars of El Cajon Boulevard: 56th through 70th

Zzzzooooommm! It’s 11 p.m. A roar like a fighter jet in trouble heads right for us. Actually it’s a squadron of bikers, taking off at the light here at ECB and 70th. First one, then …

A grape mission

He won’t say how he got it, but Steve “Kim” Moreno says he has a cutting from one of the original Mission vines that Father Junípero Serra brought up with him from Mexico in 1769. …

November 15, 2015
These big chunks are swoon-worthy

I knew it the moment I hauled open the door. This. Is. A. Mistake. Could see the businessmen inside cracking their chopsticks apart, flattening down their silk ties. I mean, this is Nobu, right? The …

We didn't want the sandwiches to stop

‘Ya-hooo! Drink Mountain Dew!” I’m in a museum here. On a side street in Lemon Grove, looking at this ancient wall ad. I like the last line, too: “It’ll tickle yore innards!” Next to it, …

How to hang out in the Gaslamp

For Bad Coffee! That’s what it says at Simon Says, the coffee kiosk at on F and Fifth, the coolest area of the Gaslamp. It’s five o’clock on a Friday night. Everybody’s your friend. They …

Eat it with your gums

Areekah? Eureka! Yemeni cuisine ancient and, in Southern California, rarified.

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