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Stories by Ed Bedford

San Diego Idli: South Indian Vegetarian Cuisine

Little India. Black Mountain Road. Looking for an Indian grocery outlet. Gotta find my new favorite flavor to swipe on bread. Marmite. Surprise for my friend Annie. She’s Scottish. She let me try some of …

January 30, 2020
Skateworld: meals on wheels

‘Are you sure?” “Piece of cake. We’ll get right back into it. They’ll want us in Cirque du Soleil.” With my friend Annie again. ’Cause she’s usually up for anything. Went for a winter swim …

January 23, 2020
Da South In Ya Mouth ribs at a Chula Vista Mobil gas station

“Good wine needs no bush,” says Annie. We’re standing at a Mobil gas station, on the corner of 3rd and L in southern Chula Vista. “Say again?” I say. I know I know this phrase. …

January 16, 2020
Hooked On Crab in Eastlake

We came here for fish, but not this sort of fish. Hank brought his rod to this totally cute little pond surrounded by houses. The lake that gives Eastlake its name, he says. But what …

January 9, 2020
Did Joan Crawford own the bar at Brian’s 24?

Crack o’ dawn. Brand new day! Toughest task of new year — to start getting up early — accomplished! On the other hand, not totally together yet. I look up along deserted Sixth Avenue. Right …

January 2, 2020
Madeleine Cafe & Bakery: the French Starbucks

First order of the day: Do. Not. Look. In. The. Mirror. Bit too much celebrating lately. So, second order of the day: belly up for a cup of real French coffee at Madeleine’s. Because, well, …

December 26, 2019
Old Venice happy hour with Joe Biden look-alike

I blame my friend Annie for this. I mean I’ve been around, but she zips about in dizzying circles, social circles, the kind you read about in the glossy magazines. This day, I just had …

December 19, 2019
Good Moments Tea Bar: steamed burgers fusion

I sip my Kyoto Summer. I look down. A steamed burger? It comes out blanched, like a ghostly version of America’s favorite sandwich, but stuffed with a golden-crumbed chicken slab, Swiss cheese, and kimchi, and …

December 12, 2019
Cheese melting over like a Salvador Dali watch

What’s missing? I keep looking at this thing. But nothing’s amiss. It is a complete burger, with slab of meat, slab of red onion, slab of cheese melting over the patty like a Salvador Dali …

December 5, 2019
Pizza with Louie the Eclectus parrot

The kid stands mesmerized. He watches as Louie picks up his piece of pizza, starts picking off the colorful bits like tomato and cilantro, then crunches at the edges of the crust. Louie’s an Eclectus …

November 28, 2019
Facing East Noodle & Bar: Gizzards and Asahi beer

‘I’m from the Northwest,” says Lu Hong. She means Northwest China. “In Xinjiang, people like their food spicy and hot. Same like Szechuan. But this food here is from South-East China. More like Shanghai, where …

November 21, 2019
Harry’s Coffee Bar: led by Harry Rudolph Jr. and the Brooklyn Dodgers

Rosemarie is heads-down in her book, Sex, Lies, and Serious Money, by “NYT #1 best-selling author” Stuart Woods. (“Reads like a remake of Family Jewels,” says the dust jacket). She can do what she wants …

November 14, 2019
Try a Burek for breakfast at Balboa Perk European Coffeehouse

What is the difference? I’m sitting here trying to figure it out. Across Park Boulevard, there are two cafes, both smart, cool, new, and library-quiet, except for the piped music. Everyone in the modern building …

November 7, 2019
Mr. Peabody’s: I love this bar

Mr. Peabody’s gets right to the point. “Please: No Assholes. No Hookers. No Tweekers.” It’s on signs behind the bar. It’s on the backs of tee shirts the bar crew wear. But up here in …

October 31, 2019
Birria and bone marrow in deepest San Ysidro

‘Suck the marrow, drink the beans,” says the guy coming out. “And watch out: the birria squirts.” I’ve just walked the half mile down from the Beyer Blue Line trolley stop. Deepest San Ysidro. I …

October 24, 2019
Art history, Korean beef at The Prado

Photograph by Matthew SuárezLittle things mean a lot: the first little thing that makes me like this place is the, well, amuse-bouche. Wedges of crisp flatbread stacked vertically like surfboards. They have sesame and other …

The Hole In The Wall: Karaoke and tons of avocado cool it down

Flaco plays the flames like a conductor. He thrusts his hands into them and flips half a dozen patties in short order. Smoke bulges up like a Nevada test cloud. “Sundays are always crazy,” he …

October 10, 2019
A jolly holiday at Mary’s Family Restaurant

It’s Sunday morning. I’m in this mom and pop diner in downtown Oceanside. My friend Mary told me about it. Said it had won the prize — okay, in 2004 — for best cinnamon bun …

October 3, 2019
Cafe La Maze: star stopover for Clark Gable, Marlene Dietrich, Errol Flynn

So this young couple slipped into the dimpled red booth. “They sat apart. They were shy,” says Tula. But this is Cafe La Maze. Big portraits of Clark Gable and Carole Lombard and a bunch …

September 26, 2019
Sorrento Valley – what little there is

Lost roads of San Diego:Sorrento Rd., Smilax, Edelweis There was also once a Smilax Road in Sorrento Valley, one in a series of short roads named for local flora. It paralleled the railroad tracks on …

September 23, 2019
Blue Jay Lodge: right out of Davy Crockett!

These places! They all look right out of Davy Crockett! Where we’re heading is this 1919 lodge 6000 feet up on Mount Laguna, 100 years old this year, actually serving nosh and hauling grog up …

September 19, 2019
Happy hour at The Henry

I swear. You blink in Coronado, and something has changed. This time it’s the musical chairs of bars. Suddenly, as of this month, the brand-new and lavishly-built The Henry is open, beaming out lights, with …

September 12, 2019
Sab-E-Lee: Isaan expression for “Delicious and Spicy.”

‘What is the one dish you would take to a desert island if you had to eat it for the rest of your life?” Interviewers are always throwing this out at celebrity chefs. Tonight, what …

September 5, 2019
Chinatown Bar & Grill: “We don’t do Chinese”

I’m up near Euclid, on University. Looking round, choosing the place that’s gonna fill my belly. Ethiopian? Cambodian? Mexican? Chinese? I swear. This underrated neighborhood has just about any food you could ask for. At …

August 29, 2019
The Whistlestop Cafe: a Mexican revelation

Heading south again. Blue Line. Chula Vista. Glaring sunny day. Have to transfer at H Street. I cross the tracks. This is when I notice a pop-up tent right between the northbound platform and the …

August 22, 2019
Salad days: Souplantation or Cafe de l’Opera?

‘Salad’s the way to flat-belly health,” says Hank. “And I know the perfect place to make that happen.” Half an hour later, we’re in line with a zillion other people, waiting to pick up our …

August 15, 2019
The Protein Plate: under the shadow of mighty Mount Miguel

Okay. Still trying to get on that weight-loss bandwagon. “I have the perfect place,” says my friend Hank. He’s calling from Eastlake. “You’d better be sure,” I say. “Because this is going to be a …

August 8, 2019
Red House Kitchen’s “Donax Don’t Tell” — a beautiful, scrumptious mess

My friend Hank and I are both desperately trying to lose weight. I can’t seem to break 210. That’s why I’m coming to meet Hank at this brekky/lunch place he told me about. It’s a …

August 1, 2019
The best Croque Madame I can remember

One day in Prague, in the Czech Republic, Mary Frese decided to explore a cobblestone alley. She came across a rustic hole-in-the-wall bakery. “It was a place where you leaned in through the window to …

July 25, 2019
Full-on Bacon Avocado Cheeseburger revered at South Cali Steak Burger Bar

They’re still out there. Places that fill your belly without emptying your wallet. I know, because I’m in one now. Once again, all hail to Hank for the find. This is his territory, south Chula …

July 18, 2019
Find Sushi and Sapporo at Kura Revolving Sushi Bar

Third time’s the charm? I’m hoping so. I’ve come early, around 5:30 pm, to put my name on the iPad outside the front window. It comes right back at me, “Guest #371: Welcome to Kura …

July 11, 2019
The Magnificent sleaziness of Miss Kim’s by That Boy Good

Oceanside’s jamming tonight. Everybody’s out and about. This is Friday, around eight. “Jesus saves!” yells this kid. He’s not alone. A whole bunch of them are making a hullabaloo in the plaza outside the Regal …

July 4, 2019
Ciccia Osteria: Italian in Barrio Logan

Aztec drums thunder out from Chicano Park. Conch shells honk. It’s eight o’clock at night. People dance barefoot. Their ankle rattles sound like sleighbells. Now a woman steps forward with a smoking incense burner. It …

June 27, 2019
Maggie’s Cafe: facing the AT-AT Walker legs of the Coronado Bay Bridge

You can see that David’s proud of his dad. “His name’s David, too. He started off not far from here as a dishwasher. He was born and raised in Tijuana, then his parents brought him …

June 20, 2019
Panda Imperial: noodle palace guardian

Got to hand it to Hank. He keeps finding these places that give you more gobbles for your greenback. It’s Friday. I ask where he’s going to eat with the money I give him. (Paying …

June 13, 2019
What calzone means in Italian

‘Hey. Feel like trouser legs for lunch?” This is Hank on the honker. Seeing quite a bit of Hank recently. Forgot how much he’s with it when it comes to getting boocoo nosh for nitnoi …

June 6, 2019
Donkey Kong, Rubik’s Cubes, Ghostbusters and arcade food

‘Donkey Kong’s at the back left,” says the guy at the welcome podium. “Go for it, brother.” My friend Annie and I head inside, and into the ding-dong cacophony of a hundred different arcade games …

Tahona’s amazing contemporary Mexican cuisine with Oaxacan bites

‘How far?” says my friend Annie. “I’m so sick of these crowds I could croak.” We’re in Old Town, Friday night. We’re at the last gasp of Old Town’s Mile of Bars on San Diego …

May 23, 2019
Blue corn tortillas are at the forefront of a gastro-battlefield at La Selecta International Market

The debate starts when I come across Henry on the parking lot patio. He’s eating away at a pile of corn tortillas. He peels one off, folds it neatly, eats it. Peels another off. “You …

May 16, 2019
Encanto – snubbed but proud

On top of this little corner of the world Here on Skyline Drive, great swaths of sward stretch out below, springy and green. Here, there are vacant lots littered with possibility, within sight of a …

Khan’s Cave Tavern: Peking Duck sliders for food addicts

This was the day Annie and I went mad. She popped by, offering me half the breakfast sandwich she’d just bought. This was like four in the afternoon. I said. “Why don’t we go have …

May 9, 2019
Pine House Cafe & Tavern: Knotty, but nice tree people

‘Bobcat!” says Mag. This hairy-tailed thing pads across the Sunrise Highway and up into the trees. Bobcat? Fox? Raccoon? Or just someone’s big hairy pet kitty? Mag and I stare across the gravel lot outside …

May 2, 2019
Arslan’s Gyros, World Surprise Plate, and libations to liberate your ideas

‘Let’s have a symposium!” says Annie. Symposium? Takes me a moment. Then, okay, yeah. Just passing an eatery with huge letters on its sidewalk canopy: “GYROS.” And I remember. Symposium’s the ancient Greek word for …

April 25, 2019
Campo –small town rich in drama

Complications of Tijuana to Tecate to Campo train Ten federal agents waiting at the railway museum are demanding that the train continue onto its last stop in Campo and be cleared through customs before anybody …

Raise a glass of Malbec at Craft Wine and Beer

It’s Friday night. Left eating till the last moment. Tramping up Congress. Gonna head up toward San Diego Avenue, the glam street of Old Town. Most of everything here on Congress is closed down. Except …

April 18, 2019
Jennings House Café: munching wine and sandwiches in a big old Victorian with a patio deck

Announcing a new gastronomic experience! A taste sensation you drink! A… OK. Here’s how it happened. I’m in Point Loma. Jes’ walking southwest down Rosecrans. Past the Dick & Jane Waxing Salon, and past, oh …

April 11, 2019
A feast of Army Base Stew, kimchi, ramen and Spam at Friend’s House in Little Korea

Aaargh! Second time I’ve tried. This time it’s even worse. I look at the screen beside the “sign in” sign. “Parties waiting: 68. Estimated wait time 03:27.” That’s 3 hours and 27 minutes? No way, …

April 4, 2019
Get your mancave “mantiques” from Mylo Macario at SD Tuff Stuff

“Mantiques,” says the sign. “SD Tuff Stuff. The Mancave Store.” This I’ve got to see. We’re on a less-visited stretch of W. Main in El Cajon. Guy’s in the next room, working on a weld. …

April 3, 2019
Today’s Syrian cuisine — a blend of Arab, Kurdish, Druze, Armenian, Circassian, Assyrian, Alawite, Turkish, Turkmen, Palestinian, Ismaili, Greek, Jewish, and Yazidi cuisines

Saturday night. East Main’s humming. “Private party,” says the guy at Mezzah. It’s the eatery in that beautiful old wooden house by El Cajon’s downtown park. Bummer. The place is crowded with older Chaldean men …

March 28, 2019
Poke 123: real Hawaiian food before SPAM arrived

Annie’s right. I’m greedy. Usually, when I think Hawaiian food, I’m thinking SPAM on rice, hamburger steak on rice drowned in gravy, pork adobo plate with rice and a “salad” of mac and cheese. Delish, …

March 21, 2019

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