4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs

Salt and Cleaver: moonshine, brats, and duck confit

New sausage spot in Hillcrest gives Midwestern football food a big-dollar makeover

Salt and Cleaver has been open for a little while, but I hadn’t had a chance to go check it out until just now. The extensive remodel on the building’s interior put a lot of distance between the new restaurant and the old Cote Sud. According to the website, Salt and Cleaver is supposed to be modelled after 1860s industrial Chicago. That seems oddly specific, but it did come out looking good in there; much more a romantic dream of industry than an Uptown Sinclair slaughterhouse nightmare. It helps that they were playing great music.

At first, the cynics say, “Hey. Cool. How is this not just the Linkery in Hillcrest?”

And to some extent they are correct. Salt and Cleaver resembles the Linkery if you paint a picture in broad strokes. The devil, as they say, is in the details.

The delight at Salt and Cleaver is how the sausages are dressed up. Take the Duck.Duck.Pig ($12), for instance. The duck and pork sausage was good, but the application of frisee and orange supremes sealed the deal. The little bites of duck confit didn't hurt, either.

On their IPA Bratwurst ($9) it was the snappy sauerkraut, pungent mustard, flavorful roasted peppers, and chewy pretzel bun that gave the sausage its robust character.

Cucumber fries ($4) were an excellent, and novel, side dish of long, thin spears of cucumber tossed in spices and a light oil. Served with a tangy tzatziki sauce, the cool snap of the cucumbers was a good balance for the rich sausages. Regular french fries ($4) were hot, crispy, and fried hard with a double-dip in the hot fryer.

With a glut of beers on tap and a full bar, Salt and Cleaver won’t be leaving anyone thirsty. I tried a Mule drink made with a California moonshine (a different brand than the Kill Devil moonshine I mused over a while back). My first instinct? It tasted like vodka. This merits further investigation.

Salt and Cleaver was not cheap. A couple drinks and sausages for two pushed the bill up past sixty bucks, which seemed like a splurge on brats and moonshine. A fine line separates a Wisconsin, backwoods barbecue and a happening new Hillcrest restaurant.

3805 Fifth Avenue
619-756-6677
Sun-Wed 11AM-Midnight
Th-Sat 11AM-2AM

Here's something you might be interested in.
Submit a free classified
or view all

Previous article

Last of the summer surfers

“Maybe if you keep your hands straight ahead and your head down, you won’t look like a sheep giving birth.”
Next Article

The Carpetbaggers part two: Elizabeth Ashley makes her screen debut

Of all the women who figure into Jonas’ life, she is the only one who isn’t a prostitute.

Salt and Cleaver has been open for a little while, but I hadn’t had a chance to go check it out until just now. The extensive remodel on the building’s interior put a lot of distance between the new restaurant and the old Cote Sud. According to the website, Salt and Cleaver is supposed to be modelled after 1860s industrial Chicago. That seems oddly specific, but it did come out looking good in there; much more a romantic dream of industry than an Uptown Sinclair slaughterhouse nightmare. It helps that they were playing great music.

At first, the cynics say, “Hey. Cool. How is this not just the Linkery in Hillcrest?”

And to some extent they are correct. Salt and Cleaver resembles the Linkery if you paint a picture in broad strokes. The devil, as they say, is in the details.

The delight at Salt and Cleaver is how the sausages are dressed up. Take the Duck.Duck.Pig ($12), for instance. The duck and pork sausage was good, but the application of frisee and orange supremes sealed the deal. The little bites of duck confit didn't hurt, either.

On their IPA Bratwurst ($9) it was the snappy sauerkraut, pungent mustard, flavorful roasted peppers, and chewy pretzel bun that gave the sausage its robust character.

Cucumber fries ($4) were an excellent, and novel, side dish of long, thin spears of cucumber tossed in spices and a light oil. Served with a tangy tzatziki sauce, the cool snap of the cucumbers was a good balance for the rich sausages. Regular french fries ($4) were hot, crispy, and fried hard with a double-dip in the hot fryer.

With a glut of beers on tap and a full bar, Salt and Cleaver won’t be leaving anyone thirsty. I tried a Mule drink made with a California moonshine (a different brand than the Kill Devil moonshine I mused over a while back). My first instinct? It tasted like vodka. This merits further investigation.

Salt and Cleaver was not cheap. A couple drinks and sausages for two pushed the bill up past sixty bucks, which seemed like a splurge on brats and moonshine. A fine line separates a Wisconsin, backwoods barbecue and a happening new Hillcrest restaurant.

3805 Fifth Avenue
619-756-6677
Sun-Wed 11AM-Midnight
Th-Sat 11AM-2AM

Sponsored
Here's something you might be interested in.
Submit a free classified
or view all
Comments
0

Be the first to leave a comment.

Sign in to comment

Sign in

Ask a Hipster — Advice you didn't know you needed Big Screen — Movie commentary Blurt — Music's inside track Booze News — San Diego spirits Classical Music — Immortal beauty Classifieds — Free and easy Cover Stories — Front-page features Drinks All Around — Bartenders' drink recipes Excerpts — Literary and spiritual excerpts Feast! — Food & drink reviews Feature Stories — Local news & stories From the Archives — Spotlight on the past Golden Dreams — Talk of the town Letters — Our inbox [email protected] — Local movie buffs share favorites Movie Reviews — Our critics' picks and pans Musician Interviews — Up close with local artists Neighborhood News from Stringers — Hyperlocal news News Ticker — News & politics Obermeyer — San Diego politics illustrated Outdoors — Weekly changes in flora and fauna Overheard in San Diego — Eavesdropping illustrated Poetry — The old and the new Reader Travel — Travel section built by travelers Reading — The hunt for intellectuals Roam-O-Rama — SoCal's best hiking/biking trails San Diego Beer — Inside San Diego suds SD on the QT — Almost factual news Sheep and Goats — Places of worship Special Issues — The best of Street Style — San Diego streets have style Surf Diego — Real stories from those braving the waves Tin Fork — Silver spoon alternative Under the Radar — Matt Potter's undercover work Unforgettable — Long-ago San Diego Unreal Estate — San Diego's priciest pads Your Week — Daily event picks
4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs
Close