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“This is the true burrito,” says Yanko Quezada. “Not those big fat things you have in San Diego.”

It’s nine at night. I’ve just paid Cathy $1 for one of his desebrada burritos...

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...here in the tight-packed little TJ street called Rampa Xicotencatl.

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It's not far from the crazy traffic line at the border.

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The burrito’s five inches long, and an inch round. That’s all. Has shredded beef inside, and pretty nice and juicy it is too.

I never knew there was such a thing as a “real” burrito, like one this size. This place, Burritos2Go (Rampa Xicotencatl, Leyva Aleman #229, Colonia Cuautémoc, Tijuana), is Yanko and his wife’s brand new idea: create good burritos for people waiting in the line to go north in the mornings, mainly Tijuana people working in San Diego industries like NASSCO, and coming back after work in the evening. At least 20,000 do this every work day, he reckons.

The thing is, his new store sits right on the sidewalk where people are shuffling slowly past, when the line is long enough. Which is twice a day.

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“We’re lucky. We get two busy periods,” he says. “The people coming back used to enter Mexico on the other side of the inspection lanes. Now they have to come right back here on this side. It’s great for our business.”

At the moment they’re just selling four kinds of $1 burritos. Beans – the most popular – beefsteak, chicken and desebrada.

“But soon we’ll be making salads and other dishes.”

He says some guys in the morning line buy a couple of dozen to take with them to San Diego – to sell for $2 apiece where they work.

Better start eating because Yanko and Christina,Blanca and Cathy, his lady workers, are packing the place up.

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It’s been a long day. “We open at five every morning,” says Yanko. “That’s when the line is longest.”

The desebrada is, well, a lot smaller than I'm used to...

...but nice and squelchy, and has a peppery afterkick that makes it interesting.

Then I spot a jar of cookies – galletas de canela - 25 cents each. Ooh, crumbly, cinnamon.

Then, oh man, Jesús González comes by with a bag of churros he makes at his little stand on wheels out on the sidewalk.

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Can’t resist. About 15 cents each. These are also encanelados - with cinnamon.

I finish up. And not bloated like after your usual big fat wrap.

“Now you can say you’ve eaten a true burrito,” says Yanko.

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4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs
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