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Stories by Matthew Suárez

Everyone else in Tijuana seems to love this place

“If you don’t have anything to nice to say, don’t say anything at all.” It’s an English proverb that I tend not to follow. Family, friends, and strangers are always recommending places for me. I …

Bizarre life, delicious food at the border

Being both Mexican and American did nothing to prepare me for the bizarre life at the border. Mastery of Spanish did little to help understand the complexities of Tijuana. In this city, cultures clash, streets …

Please, anything but sidewalk stars

"We’ve witnessed tourism making a slow comeback. But it’s not at all the type of tourism that wants to see star-studded sidewalks."

July 27, 2016
Several smells do the tango

I have walked by Açai Café on the beach boardwalk of Playas de Tijuana countless times and thought of it simply as the café with the Mario Bros. mural painted on the side. I had …

Shocks for sale

Clickety-clink-clack. Toques! Toques! A man wearing polished shoes, a zoot suit, and a fancy hat walks through a bar with a decorated electric box attached to his hip. Two metal tubes that he smashes together …

July 13, 2016
The best camarón enchilado taco in all the land

My friend Danger Dave took me to Los Compadres for the first time a few years ago. He guaranteed that they had the best camarón enchilado taco (spicy shrimp), better than Tijuana favorite El Mazateño. …

The torta was truly drowned

The torta ahogada (“drowned sandwich”) is one of the many signature dishes brought to you by Jalisco, the state that is home to tequila and also my paternal family’s home. From what I know, there …

Vote for me, or go f--- your mother

“We are doing the first grassroots campaign in Tijuana,” Antonio Ley tells the Reader. “We are doing it Obama style.” Ley is the downtown canvass coordinator for one of the independent candidates running for Tijuana’s …

May 31, 2016
Great Korean in a Tijuana mall

In Tijuana, if you crave sushi you are limited to two things: bad but cheap sushi or decent sushi in a fancy sit-down restaurant. I knew that the Friki Plaza, the nerdy mall where Dorian’s …

Sometimes gay-friendly Tijuana

“Governor Quiko [Kiko] Vega violates rights of trans.” “Religions: Stop promoting trans assassinations.” “Stop the abuse by policemen against trans in Tijuana.” “To be trans is not a sin nor a disease.” These were just …

Enter a maze of beer and food

“We accomplished our primary task, which was to have as many tap rooms as we can in one place,” says Juan Carlos Bucio, the mastermind that turned Plaza del Balazo into Plaza Cerveza. “The second …

San Diego Reader 2016 taco issue

Asada days and adobada nights — A little taste of Loreto in San Diego. by Mary Beth Abate Tacos where you least expect them — Looking beyond standard tacolandia. By Ed Bedford Taco mecca — …

May 11, 2016
Classic Tijuana taquerías

Tijuanenses will never agree what taquería has the best taco, but what they can agree on is that the very best in the world is found in Tijuana. Though Tacos El Gordo dominates the San …

May 11, 2016
More than 20 craft breweries opened in Tijuana last year

More than 20 tap rooms opened in Tijuana last year, many of them in the same Plaza, giving the area a feel of a daily beer fest. Partially thanks to San Diego, the Baja region …

Plaza La Ocho opens in downtown Tijuana

“El Parque de la Ocho is more than just a space for activities, it is also an area to develop values like respect, harmony, and a sense of belonging,” Dr. Jorge Astiazarán, Tijuana’s mayor said …

April 21, 2016
From Greengo to Grater

“We started in 2011 with a food truck named Greengo grilled cheese,” explained Gaston Corbalá, chef and creator of Grater Grilled Cheese Bistro. “We wanted a name that was a play on words and represented …

Ghost buildings haunt Tijuana

Puerta Mexico, a.k.a. La Concha (“the shell”), a googie-esque immigration office on the Mexican side of the San Ysidro border crossing, was demolished in 2015 . Constructed in 1961, the structure also served as a …

April 13, 2016
Tijuana taxistas in turmoil

"I have no idea what is going on," Enrique Sanchez, a taxi coordinator, told me last week when I inquired about the plans for taxi drivers to strike in Tijuana. "The director instructed us to …

April 11, 2016
Vegan tacos via bike

Young couple David García and Ariss Mercado started delivering vegan food via bicycle around Tijuana over a year ago. After biking around the city, they garnered enough fans via Facebook and Instagram to open a …

Little Japan in Tijuana

I found myself in a bizarre, nerdy dreamland called Otaku Anime Café. Similar to Plaza Friki, this is where nerds congregate in downtown. Welcome to Nippon in Tijuana. As I enter, a video of Kyary …

Vanessa up in flames

Tijuana punk band DFMK were on their way through California for their RnR Spring West Coast tour, when they had to pull over to the side of the road to attend Vanessa’s wounds. Vanessa was …

March 31, 2016
Drunk diving in Tijuana

“My dad started this stand in March of 1970, the year I was born,” says Israel Carrillo, who runs Mariscos el Buzo, a small seafood stand in the corner of Calle Segunda and Gonzalez Ortega …

Goat is so much better than beef

I remember the first time I had birria in the city of Guadalajara. I was only seven and wasn’t much of a meat eater. Without asking for it, a bowl of spicy greasy red soup …

Tijuana movie theater reopens

“As soon as you sit down, a guy will come over and offer you sexual favors,” a gay friend told me a couple of years ago. “You pay around two dollars and you can stay …

March 5, 2016
Ghosts on the patio

“It all started in my backyard in the summer of 2014,” Andrés Corella recalls. “We did it to share music with friends. We had no intention of making it a big public thing. They were …

March 2, 2016
Whatever you do, stay south of Calle Primera

The first time I tried a Buda Burger was two years ago. My roommate had left a half-eaten burger in the fridge, and I was hungry. He later gave me directions on how to find …

Bland food, fantastic view

Waves crashing, rooftop dogs barking, seagulls squawking, the banter between people (mostly in English), music playing in the background, improvised couches, random pillows and cushions, a long wooden table, a bookshelf with a sign that …

Zonked out

The zonkey business seems to be dying of natural causes, not because of animal rights activism.

January 27, 2016
Kitty and tea

“The Persian one, that’s Zed,” says Elizabeth Barajas, the founder of Bastet Cat Café, pointing at a napping kitty. “Zed is the house cat. He is always here and welcomes all the newcomers. More than …

January 22, 2016
Peso falls at the same time as Chapo

“We need to find another news story for people to get distracted; we call it la caja China (Chinese box).” That’s a translated line from a Mexican movie that came out in 2014 named La …

January 14, 2016
Bread's got Baby Jesus

My parents woke me and my brothers up in the middle of the night when I was six years old in my hometown of Querétaro (1992). Three men dressed in robes, crowns, and white gloves …

January 7, 2016
Stuck in 1975

Droning sounds start to build before The 1975 came onstage at 9 p.m. Shrieks from fans filled my ears as the frontman, Matthew Healy, came out with his bandmates. It felt as if I was …

January 3, 2016
In praise of a seafood Tijuana favorite

The first time I went to La Corriente Cevicheria Nais was around five years ago, one of the first restaurants I visited in Tijuana. Back then, the sign that says how many red snapper tostadas …

A Christmas Facebook story

A 17-year-old identified as Adal Mundo Rodríguez was videoed abusing a homeless man, making him repeat different humiliating phrases in the Otay region of Tijuana, on December 20th. The teenager holds what seems to be …

December 25, 2015
McDonald's commercial fooled me

The last time I went to McD's was in 2010 at LAX, one of the worst airports at which to eat. That day, I strayed from the burgers and got nuggets and a McFlurry. I …

Not enough bacon for a place with bacon in the title

A tad late with the trend of cooking everything with bacon, Sweet Bacon opened its doors a couple of months ago in downtown Tijuana. They are located on the main road (Revolución) between 6th and …

Tijuana brewer's van swiped

Last week, the van that Border Psycho brewery uses to transport kegs to their tap room and other bars was stolen with beer inside. The reward offered by the brewery for information that leads to …

December 18, 2015
Tijuana loves delivery

Tijuana is a city that loves its delivery food. Hundreds of motorcycles with all sorts of food zoom down the streets day and night. One morning I woke up to find out my roommate had …

Comic-Con it every dang day

“Whoa, they have the Link Amiibo. I can’t find them anywhere in L.A. I’m getting one for my lil’ brother.” I was touring my friend Gabe through Tijuana when he got excited and we stopped …

December 12, 2015
El Tigre leaves the punks behind

One year ago, El Tigre had punk shows on a regular basis. They served cheap beer on tap, caguama (bottled beer), and mixed drinks intended to get you drunk for the least amount of money. …

November 28, 2015
Baby delivered at border

Of the many ways to find out what is happening on the San Ysidro or Otay border lines, the best source of current information (and misinformation) is the Facebook group “Como esta la Línea.” The …

November 19, 2015
An easy gathering spot in downtown Tijuana

“Why don’t you try Praga? They have really good chai.” My friend Claudia suggested this after I told her that I did not feel like eating vegan at her Happy Vegan locale. I was looking …

November 7, 2015
¡Rape Trump!

A mile west of the Tijuana airport, where the road ends and dirt road begins, a mural that reads “¡Rape Trump!” has been painted on the old border wall. The presidential candidate's face is depicted …

November 6, 2015
Halloween in Tijuana

Thousands of locals and tourists flocked to Avenida Revolución to party and celebrate Halloween, also known in Mexico as “Día de las Brujas.” I arrived at the scene around 9 p.m. and police had already …

November 3, 2015
Tijuana facelift

Last year, Calle Segunda in downtown Tijuana was destroyed in order to be redesigned. For a couple of months, it looked like the end of the world. Businesses and residents suffered difficult access and water …

October 26, 2015
Which part of the pig do you prefer?

The carnivore paradise that is the Telefónica food-truck park had one stall that served vegan food when I last visited in July. That place is gone and has been replaced with a food truck named …

Fate of Tijuana dive bar hits rumor circuit

“Si güey, el Zacas va a cerrar” (“Yeah man, Zacas is closing”), a musician named Osvaldo “el Teme” said, confirming the rumor. “Someone told me it will happen before the end of the year. We …

October 13, 2015
A fairy tale land of beer

Follow the stairs with the gnomes painted on the side to the second floor of one of the many locales that is the maze of Plaza Fiesta and you will find a kitchen with a …

An awkward ménage à trois

When I first met Oliver Castañeda a couple years ago, he was running a small coffee shop named El Gnomo (The Gnome) in downtown Tijuana in the alley known as Pasaje Gomez. When Pasaje Gomez …

Loving and loathing the peso in Tijuana

“The dollar keeps getting more expensive! Isn't it awesome?” Jimmy told me excitedly one payday a couple months ago. At age 20, Jimmy was my youngest coworker while I was working in retail. He had …

October 1, 2015

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