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Stories by Ian Anderson

Fish Bucket holds a lot of swai

San Diego's loaded when it comes to fish counters. It's even got more than its fair share of fish houses, fish shops and even a crab hut. But I'm pretty sure it's only got one …

Post-surf sando satisfaction

I would love to live in one of the North County beach towns, with their ability to catch summer swells and too many gorgeous beaches to count. Of course, I tell myself that by living …

Underbelly North Park raises its game

It took awhile, but Underbelly, the ramen branch of Consortium Holdings' local restaurant empire, finally opened its long-anticipated second location at the North Parker. Its finishing of the corner space at 30th and Upas completes …

Saying yes to doogh in Miramar

Kolbeh sits in an inauspicious strip of mall on the corner of Black Mountain Road, across form the north gate of Miramar Air Station. Stepping inside, the first thing you notice is yourself, staring back …

East Village — craft coffee neighborhood?

Speaking to local roasters and baristas, I keep hearing the same assessment: third-wave coffee in San Diego has lagged way behind the Bay Area and cities such as Austin, and (especially) Portland. But, they like …

October 8, 2014
Ob-la-di, Ob-la-baba-ghanoush

I had just enough forethought to book reservations at Mezé the night of the Paul McCartney concert at Petco Park — and it was a good thing I did, because the sign posted above the …

Modern Times flows into coffee

An artisanal approach to coffee isn’t limited to roasting or dripping method. The same creative impulse that dry hops or grapefruit put into beer can drive third-wave coffee purveyors to seek out ways to embellish …

September 24, 2014
Field's almost ready, Coach Wells

Point Loma High School baseball will have a level playing field this season. At the end of September, construction will finish on Phase 1 of a planned two-part upgrade of David Wells Field, just in …

September 23, 2014
Seeking a better bento box lunch

I don't know why there's no real American equivalent to bento. I suppose the closest thing we have is the lunch combo — a sandwich, bag of chips, maybe a pasta salad if you're lucky. …

North Park's hidden breakfast

I learned a lot about waffles when my dog, Loki, and I finally found Wow Wow Waffle in its semi-secret location behind the coin laundry at 30th Street and Myrtle in North Park. It's a …

Same taste, different shape

Who knows why cupcakes were ever round in the first place? I mean, I know why they're round now — because cupcake tins and those little corrugated paper cups in the grocery stores come that …

Tajima lives up to its reputation

As far back as I can recall, every restaurant at 3739B 6th Ave — across from the Rite Aid — has been Japanese. I used to order from the "American Favorites" list back when it …

Carlsbad's low-risk seafood spot

Sometimes it feels like I photograph fish tacos for a living. I review a lot of fish tacos because I eat a lot of them — because San Diego produces a lot of them. But …

September 12, 2014
Taste the bean, not the roast

While a handful of roasters have been at it for years — La Jolla–based Pannikin has been cooking beans since 1968 — most of San Diego’s developing artisanal coffee movement has been spurred by newcomers. …

September 10, 2014
First taste at Bottega Americano

The Italian word bottega carries a sort of double meaning. It can simply mean a shop (like the more commonly known Spanish bodega), or refer to an artist's workshop. Americano, of course, refers to something …

Europe would be impressed

The Whisknladle charcuterie plate might not transport easily, but it’s too good not to take on a picnic. House-cured chorizo, house-made pâté, several types of house-pickled olives.

Ketchup, mustard and Mongolian

There are no shortage of restaurants in Kearney Mesa I'd like to try. I actually keep a list, and every once in awhile I hop on the freeway to go and check off another, come …

Third wave breaks in Bird Rock

I drink coffee every day. I probably don’t even drink water every day, or beer, or any other important beverages. But coffee gets the call, rain or shine. For a time I was content to …

August 27, 2014
Lunchtime starts clever, finishes sweet

I've encountered a few hybrid lunch dishes before: the taco salad, the ramen burger, the teriyaki burrito. Not many have attempted to straddle three different concepts at once. I found one in Hillcrest: a pizza …

Lamb burger at a beer spot

Aside from a Karl Strauss outpost, I wasn't sure there were any reasonable spots to find good draft beer in La Jolla – at least, any reasonably priced spots. So I've never really gone there …

Café Coyote lives up to its name

What do the tourists see when they come to San Diego? I wondered this as I walked around Old Town, trying to decide in which hokey Mexican spot to have lunch. Fiesta del Reyes seemed …

Sliders on the sidewalk

As if its lines didn't get long enough, meatball specialist Soda and Swine, located at the top of North Park at 30th and Adams, has put a short fence up around its storefront to create …

Gourmet, you say?

Maybe it's just me, but the term "gourmet hot dog" conjures an image of a guy in a white-tie tuxedo peering through a quizzing glass at a cocktail wiener, probably muttering something along the lines …

Bad barbeque, good reviews?

I don't enjoy writing a bad review any more than I enjoy eating bad food. It's just a cruelty of logic that the two always go together. The whole thing leaves a bitter taste in …

Fish taco versus California burrito

When you say "berto's", I think burrito. Adalberto's or Filibertos? Burrito. Aliberto's, Humberto's, or Rigoberto's? Burrito. Or if there's no drive-thru, maybe some rolled tacos. It's just a fact of living here: at some time …

An oyster education at Herringbone

I never thought much about oysters. If you asked me what makes them different from mussels or clams, I'd probably say they make pearls. I do know what they taste like, but it's rarely happened …

Panama 66 "mushy" opens at Museum of Art

It wasn't long ago that I heard the proprietors of Tiger! Tiger! and Blind Lady Ale House had won the contract to open an eatery in the Sculpture Garden Court outside the Museum of Art …

In this corner, a Fish Shop taco

Fresh, often local fish behind a counter that you may have made into a sandwich, salad, taco or beautifully grilled on a plate with a couple of healthy sides. What's not to love? Craft beer washes it down, and loyal customers brag about the place to their friends. It elevates PB's very existence.

It tastes good to be wrong sometimes

The first time I encountered Tender Greens I was milling about the UTC mall waiting to catch a movie at the ArcLight. Something to know about me is that I loathe and detest malls, to …

Off-menu at my go-to burrito joint

I've rarely been more than a ten-minute drive to Los Reyes over the years, and for the past few it's been about a five minute walk. The place is entirely what I expect from San …

Nameless but not tasteless

Driving down Orange Ave I Coronado, I spotted a banner proclaiming "Voted Best Pizza." Interesting, but anybody can buy a banner, I thought. Let's see what you've got, Alexander's Pizza. I flipped a U-turn and …

The Paleo diet can hit the road

I won't often admit to consulting Wikipedia, but while researching what is meant when people refer to a "Paleo diet" — based on the premise that our bodies are actually better off only digesting the …

Drinking as human artistry

Craft cocktails create the opportunity to celebrate human artistry while going out drinking with friends. That’s what I’d call a win–win. Aero Club Known to have more than 800 whiskies to choose from, it’s little …

July 9, 2014
A swarm of crickets lands in San Diego

The newly constructed North Parker infill property at 30th and Upas has been slowly coming online with a smartly decorated Modern Times tasting room, Influx coffeeshop, and Tacos Perla, which recently fit right into my …

The line-up comes ashore for Fish 101

I'll make the effort for a good fish taco, even if it means hustling up to Leucadia from Golden Hill and standing in line out on the sidewalk along PCH. That's where you find Fish …

Only the bold survive on Goldfinch

Goldfinch Street in Mission Hills has become quite the dining hub, with restaurants like Brooklyn Girl, Izakaya Masa and the newly opened Patio worth waiting in line for, and the reliably great Lefty's is a …

Mac and cheese... Super Q slider topping?

I keep wanting to like food trucks. I don't know why — I have no trouble going to traditional storefront restaurants and dining in or taking out. I'd rather eat sitting at a table than …

Foodie taco, delicious taco, City Taco

It's good. Really damn good. Okay, I only earn the right to dole out restaurant reviews by stretching them out to more than a couple of words, so I'll elaborate. North Park's newest taco shop …

Plate of pork, context, and nostalgia

It's kind of funny how nostalgia works. Take plate lunches, for example. The Hawaiian lunch staple usually involves some sort of cheap protein, a scoop of rice, and macaroni salad. There's nothing particularly alluring or …

South Park meth market shut down?

For the second time this year, the yellow house at 1505 Fern Street in South Park was raided by law-enforcement officers and its occupants arrested. At 5 a.m. on the morning of June 11, an …

An ode to Brooklyn Girl brunch

Brunch. Breakfast + lunch. This simple portmanteau fills me with a mixture of joy and dread. In many ways it's the perfect meal: transitioning seamlessly between savory and sweet dishes; adeptly served by either coffee …

Backpacker fave lost in translation

Making a sandwich from three ingredients takes a lot of brass. But mostly it takes three pretty terrific ingredients, and clearly one of them is going to be bread. So what do you get when …

Tenacity with a side of couscous

After running around Ocean Beach's dog beach for awhile, I brought Loki over to Shades Oceanfront Bistro to grab some lunch. I mean, why give up on the idea some bikini-clad girl is going to …

Sisig and sarsparilla at the other Tita's

Actually, I was trying to go to Tita's Kitchenette, a cramped, cafeteria-style Filipino food counter on Plaza Boulevard in National City. But I passed right by without noticing. I might have driven another five minutes …

Trying to live up to the fish tacos of lore

I'm not sure what's more disturbing, that I hold every fish taco I eat up to the standards set by a greasy street cart selling them for 85 centavos apiece on some desolate stretch of …

Lazy afternoon in a lazy coffeeshop

I honestly don't know what I was doing in Old Poway Village. It's a cute enough place, with old-timey storefronts that might be charming except for the fact they house businesses along the lines of …

Eucalypti, your time has come

The California gold rush didn't only bring myriad fortune-seeking people to the Golden State. It also brought trees. Specifically, an Australian species very familiar to anyone who lives in San Diego: the eucalyptus. However, nearly …

Kearny Mesa restaurant aspires to be crappy fast food chain

I had to go to the courthouse to deal with a traffic ticket — nobody's idea of fun — and had just enough time to squeeze in lunch beforehand. I wanted, needed, a good reason …

All I could eat, plus mango custard

For the most part, anyone who tells you they had a satisfying All You Can Eat meal cares more about feeling full than eating good food. This holds especially true when you cross below the …

The Spoken One speaks on his graffiti-busting ways

A recent confrontation between a surfer and a graffiti vigilante at Sunset Cliffs park ended peacefully but raised questions on how to approach the encroachment of vandalism, particularly within our beach communities. An eyewitness reports …

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