Ambrose Martin

Articles by Ambrose Martin

Christmas is never not coming

What did the Grinch hate about Christmas?

Somewhere well into the wee hours of a Christmas in the not-nearly-distant-enough past, as the adults in my family labored to finish with the wrapping of presents, the curling of ribbon, the printing of tags, ...

San Diego Reader 2018 taco issue

Tacos with seafood, tacos that tell a story, tacos from Tijuana

Great atmosphere, better tacos Baja Oyster, Border X, Carnitas, Canteen at Quartyard, Candelas, Señor Taquero By Ed Bedford Shrimpquest 2018 City Tacos. Lolita's, Oscar's, Mariscos Alex, Blue Water By Ambrose Martin Year-round taco festival Corazon ...

Shrimpquest 2018

City Tacos. Lolita's, Oscar's, Mariscos Alex, Blue Water

For pure evocative force, it’s hard to beat the Germanic. “Shrimp” — taken from schrimpfen, “to contract” — works well in this way: the thing is basically a shrunken lobster. But for culinary loveliness, it’s ...

San Diego Reader 2017 Burgers issue

Urge is the root word

Burgers with a side of ambience Brewski's, Bruski, Legacy, Banzai, Sunrise Deli, San Marcos Brewery, Tivoli, Balboa Bar. By Chad Deal Burgers for those with exquisite taste Craft & Commerce, Barleymash, Mastiff, Fathom, Notorious, Burger ...

Fancy beef joints serve fancy burgers

Cowboy Star, Morton's, Fleming's, MCormick & Schmick's, Lou & Mickey's

Last year’s visit to the bar at Ruth’s Chris Steakhouse for a burger confirmed my suspicion that fancy beef joints serve fancy beef, even when it’s ground. So this year I stuck with steakhouses. (I ...

San Diego Reader Feast — 2017 restaurant issue

Slow cooking, fusion, BBQ, slices of Chicago pizza

It's a mess. A glorious mess. Azerbaijan on Adams Ave., the Buzz Burger with bacon jam, Surf Check in Shasta travel trailer, old-school Japanese in Chula Vista. — Ed Bedford Save room for the Mexican ...

A slice of Chicago

Lefty's, Regents, Chicago Bros., Berkeley, Chicago Pizza

You don’t “grab a slice,” you order it and then settle in. Check your phone. Read a novella. There is no getting around the time it takes until — as the Regents Pizzeria reheating instructions ...

San Diego Reader 2017 guide to tacos

Taco secrets, octopus, importance of tortillas

Taco means tiny taste of temptation. Satisfaction by a thousand different cuts of meat and veggies. Is it just me, this wacko taco love affair? I don’t think so. Every San Diegan has a secret ...

Customers order two, four, six at a time

Think of a Tijuana-based version of In-N-Out.

Un Mundo An impressive lineup of hot sauces stands guard along the front window counter of Un Mundo, defending the cheerful interior from the curvy corporate brickwork and congested parking lot outside. The motto here ...