Napizza arrives from Rome. “Slow is our thing. With yeast, more time equals more flavor.”
July 11, 2012
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Stories by Ed Bedford
When Not in Rome
Mezzah — Arabic Tapas in El Cajon
“Iraqis love big entrées. It’s the Lebanese who like to snack on different small tapas.”
Spontaneous Picnic
They’re wearing red T-shirts with a message: “Keep Calm and Eat Well.”
June 20, 2012
Trucked In
Pierogies and banh mi — two specialty delicacies sold off San Diego food trucks.
June 13, 2012
Our Dad Was Marco
Three sisters — former “kitchen slaves” — opened their Cafe Di Roma in Imperial Beach.
June 6, 2012
West Coast Superfood
Tiger! Tiger! Yeah, yeah, craft beer…and mushroom-lentil sandwiches?
May 30, 2012
Our Generation
What’s with this “Urban” thing? There’s “Urbn,” the bar-eatery in North Park, “Urban Eats” on Fifth Avenue in Hillcrest, and now “Urban India,” near the Gaslamp. I noticed it walking down Fourth toward Broadway the …
May 23, 2012
Wild Pork Wings!
When they make wings out of pork parts and call it bar food, our cheap-eats guy is there to scarf it.
May 16, 2012
Big Heart and Kitchen
Judy the Beauty on Duty’s Big Kitchen serves a big breakfast in South Park.
April 25, 2012
Made in Central Luzon
Ed Bedford digs into some Filipino soul food at Villa Manila in National City.
April 18, 2012
Under Ghostly Bells in Old Town
"Come sit here!" Southern hospitality hits San Diego. Darlene and Steven have just about finished their food, but as soon as they see me come into the courtyard, they toss out the invite. “We always …
A World Away from Old Town
"The usual,” she says. Kellie’s ahead of me in line. We’re standing between a bank of Canadian coffee dispensers and a Parisian street. Okay, a pretty darned convincing Parisian scene — on the wall. “I …
Full-On Party at Athens Market
"Kurios arene,” says Dave Rawley. He’s a Bible scholar carrying three heavy, worn Bibles. At least one’s in classical Greek. He’s been sitting and studying them over his Greek chicken, in the corner of the …
March 28, 2012
Serious Food Here
It’s about 9:00 at night. Wednesday. I hear a ripple of people clapping. I look in through the door of this café I’ve never noticed before. Place is filled. Can hear the thudded Ps of …
Slave to Chocolate
When I was eight years old, I gave up candy. My mom was scared of the whole sugar thing. Had us on All Bran, for roughage, to rush the dangerous stuff through. Guess she scared …
Three-Alarm Umami
Sunny, breezy day. Walking through the barrio, heading down César Chávez toward the trolley. Pass ye olde brick building that used to be Chuey’s bar-eatery. ’Course, for years it’s been Ryan Bros. coffee-roasting and sipping …
February 29, 2012
Gelati Rainbow
It’s the word that stops me. A new word on the awning of this old place. “Cremalose.” Huh? This is the San Diego Hardware building. The 100-year-old curved-glass windows of what was once a Woolworth’s …
February 15, 2012
Fries Included
"What’s that guy eating?” yells Carla. “It looks ginormous!” “Say what?” “I said…” We’re shouting at each other at the new Nicky Rottens place in Coronado. Carla wanted to meet here at the bay end …
Wild Pile at Lion Coffee
Anastasia from Vladivostok brings my waffle. Melissa — her family is from Guam — hands me my coffee. The coffee’s Kona, from Hawaii. The waffle is from…heaven. Sigh. Love a surprise. Here I was, ambling …
February 1, 2012
Who's Dick?
"Don’t rush me!” Dion’s voice cuts through the noise. She’s barking at a customer who wants to pay up and go. “Besides, you haven’t drunk enough yet. We have rules!” Dion walks away muttering, under …
January 25, 2012
Serious Coffee
It hangs below four others like it, an ancient rifle from ancient wars. Did it kill people? Did it save someone’s life? As I stand in line waiting for coffee and something to eat, I …
January 18, 2012
Walk and Glug
If I’d known then what I know now, I might have stuck to life east of the I-5. I swear, what a hike. I get off the Blue Line trolley at 24th Street, National City. …
January 11, 2012
Champion Chew
"More people worldwide are killed by donkeys than die in plane crashes every year. True, or shit?” Tom’s standing on the stage where the band Napoleon Complex will be playing later tonight. This is Wednesday …
January 4, 2012
O’Hungry Boy
"Malagueña salerosa…” Krizanto sings his heart out. I chomp into my $5 dinner: ribs, carrots, broccoli, blob of mash, white-bread bun, and butter. Take a slurp of my $1 beer. Yeah, one Washington. In Old …
Totally Wicked
Who says there’s no more new food to create? Last big food invention I can remember around here happened a century ago, when Caesar Cardini accidentally invented the Caesar Salad. But, hey, how about Michael …
December 14, 2011
That Meat Melts!
Whew. Walking, walking... North up Mission Boulevard. I’m in P.B. Looking for breakfast, dammit. Okay, so it’s lunchtime. Need a place that doesn’t cut off at 11:00 a.m. I come up on this guy in …
December 7, 2011
Belly-Fillers at Landini's
My buddy John turned me on to Landini’s. He works at Caffe Italia, farther down India Street, here in Little Italy. It was a couple of months back. Friday evening. Spotted John and his buddy …
November 30, 2011
When in El Salvador...
It was a dark and rainstormy night. Marvel as our hero tramps undaunted through the dripping streets of Grant Hill. Crosses 26th, 27th, 28th, ever searching for his Shangri-La. Aha! Suddenly, lights! Camera! ¡Acción! A …
November 22, 2011
Beautiful Mess of Cheesesteak
If I were more of a man, I’d actually do this. I’m looking at a sign on an artist’s easel: “McGonagle’s Cheesesteak Challenge: Eat 3 and Win $50!...Three double-meat cheesesteaks in 30 minutes.” Hmm…double-meat. Meaning …
November 16, 2011
Birria in the Barrio
Call it the next best thing to Mexico. I’m in Barrio Logan, walking down Beardsley, past the Logan Heights Family Health Center Clinic. What I like — apart from the clinic and the half-dozen apartment …
November 9, 2011
Reverse Explorers
‘"She gives me everything…and tenderly…” Her voice rings out loud, clear, and beautiful. She’s singing along with the Beatles tune on the sound system, “And I Love Her,” looking at the tiny baby in her …
November 2, 2011
San Diego Pizza Places
The younger sibling of the larger Arrivederci Ristorante a few doors down specializes in Neapolitan-style pizza. Sidewalk seating gives diners a front-row view of Hillcrest happenings. Servers are likely to speak Italian, and the low …
October 19, 2011
Burrito Especial
At this Five Points hot spot, hefty helpings of flavorful carne asada and shrimp are packed into flour tortillas like a past-his-prime wrestler into fluorescent pink Spandex. It’s a fitting analogy for a venue that …
October 19, 2011
Nibbles and Drinks
What first drew me in here was Starlite’s informal, relaxed atmosphere, illuminated by a sparkly, starry sky-like chandelier hovering over the sunken bar. Though atmosphere played a significant role, it was the consistent deliciousness of …
October 19, 2011
Jamaican Promise at La Crêperie
The sun slants in through the venetian blinds, casting angled stripes across Christine’s arms and face. She’s wearing a striped dress, too, so it’s kinda cute. She’s chatting away with her old school buddy, Cathy, …
October 12, 2011
All Aboard in Logan Heights!
Woof! Woof! Big black dog’s barking at me. He’s standing in a strut pose on the porch of one of those great old Victorians they have here on Logan Avenue, in the barrio. But I …
October 5, 2011
Stardust's Famous Rings
“Our grandmother, Pretty Kitty Keen, had donut places all through the Depression.”
September 28, 2011
No Vacation at "the Restaurant"
Mama Teresa... After 12 years, here she is, beautiful, smiling, slim, fair-haired, 87. I first met her 15 years back. Her place at Park (12th) and Broadway hasn’t changed much. On the outside, it’s still …
September 21, 2011
When in Aroma
Whew. Sniffing the rarified air of La Jolla. Wandering along Prospect at about 2:00 in the afternoon. Muggy hot. Looking for burgers. Promised the lovely Carla I’d take her back a nice big fat one. …
The Best Main Dishes from the "Feast" Blog
What follows is a selection of posts from our Feast! blog. Every day our team of foodies posts news and reviews from San Diego eateries. New Menu Trend Leaves Too Much to the Imagination<br>By Brandon …
September 7, 2011
Meijo Sushi's Tiger Eyes
"We should be so lucky,” says Michael. The two of us are looking at a wooden box, maybe four-by-four inches and three inches deep. Joe, the owner here, has brought it over to our table. …
September 7, 2011
Bull's Eye, Caffé Calabria
‘Fresh mozzarella?” says Giancarlo. “You eat it like a soft apple, while it’s still warm, and the warm milk oozes out and runs down your face. That’s the fresh mozzarella you can get in Italian …
August 31, 2011
Stout Public House Is Hockey Central
Stout people? My first encounter with these guys was a heady night in June, at Stout Public House at Sixth and C. It seemed like all of Canada had turned up to drink the Vancouver …
August 17, 2011
Beat the Clock at Du-par's Restaurant & Bakery
Oh, man. That smell. That barbecue smell, reaching out and pulling you in by the nose. It’s coming from Phil’s BBQ, right past the sports arena. Even now — it’s early evening — streams of …
August 10, 2011
Ghetto Bread
Mike Altman says, “People tell me, ‘I’m from Brooklyn. These bagels better be good.’ I get that all the time.” When you call your business Brooklyn Bagel and Bialy, I guess you’ve gotta expect it. …
August 3, 2011
O'Bistro Café on Voltaire
Who can resist eavesdropping? Not me. Debbie, the owner of an O.B. eatery named Tower Two; Elsa, the interior designer; Melalee, the kindergarten teacher; and Brenda, who, along with her husband Jong, owns this joint …
July 27, 2011
Avenue Subs in Coronado
“Okay, Goldilocks. Have a nice hair day.” That’s me to Carla. It’s my day off. We’re in the Crown City — Coronado — for her date with Diane, “the greatest stylist in the universe.” “Hair …