“Shoot, yeah, I probably shouldn’t be right here at the San Diego River mouth — probably not the best idea. I mean, it’s immune-system-strengthening. “My favorite spots are here in O.B. when it rains. I …

The Tijuana Slough is known for its massive break. Coupled with a rocky reef and heavy pollution from the Tijuana River, it can be dangerous and during the winter months it’s often closed due to …

Nick Manverg: “Surfing at Windansea is almost more stressful than school or work. It’s a little hectic. On a good day it is really crowded and kind of insane. I have seen guys get into …

Kelsey Gonzalez’s mom used to push her into waves and encourage her to surf the white wash. Her mom later took her to Bali on a surf trip. “I used to wear this shirt all …

Jake Wilsie believes that younger surfers need to respect the older locals. “It’s little stuff like leaving trash on the beach or yelling at older guys in the water. [At South Mission] you are going …

“My first experience at Hospitals [La Jolla] was crazy. It’s a reef break. It breaks really aggressively and it’s not forgiving. The learning curve is a little more painful. "Some of the biggest waves I …

Arturo Baravalle taught himself by watching YouTube videos and getting in the water as much as possible. “When I started, I went to friendly surf spots, like Tourmaline. I stayed away from the crowds.... My …

Charley Stevens nearly chopped off an ear while surfing in Carlsbad. “I was about 13. The crease where my skull and ear connects got clipped by the fin of my surfboard. My ear was hanging …

Thomas’s 7´4˝ surfboard was shaped by Tim Bessell of La Jolla. "I probably have 20 surfboards in my quiver.” “On a day like today, a beautiful day, really great waves, there were only two of …

My dad took me and my buddy out to Crystal Pier in PB. It was in the middle of a big storm. There was nobody out in the water. It was like being in a …

Julie Schuman, a Cardiff native, admits that stand-up paddleboarders can be tiresome due to their tendency to drop in on other people’s waves. “I know what the rules are out there,” Schuman says. “I don’t …

This is kind of pushing it. I’m in Baja watching set waves close out a popular reef break every 15 minutes or so. As the buoy shows, a single 15-footer washes through, creating swirling currents …

Name: Clara Macculloch Age: 19 From: Sunset Cliffs Location: Sunset Cliffs Clara Macculloch was pulling her board out of her Dad’s car in Sunset Cliffs when we stopped to chat. “I live right at the …