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“My first experience at Hospitals [La Jolla] was crazy. It’s a reef break. It breaks really aggressively and it’s not forgiving. The learning curve is a little more painful.
"Some of the biggest waves I have surfed have been at Hospitals. I have come close to drowning, got almost a two-wave hold down on a large day, probably almost 12 feet...."
“My first experience at Hospitals [La Jolla] was crazy. It’s a reef break. It breaks really aggressively and it’s not forgiving. The learning curve is a little more painful.
"Some of the biggest waves I have surfed have been at Hospitals. I have come close to drowning, got almost a two-wave hold down on a large day, probably almost 12 feet...."
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