Quantcast
4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs

All eyes on Richmond, Virginia

The former Confederate capital is rich in Civil War history and foodie finds.

Richmond, the capital of Virginia, is a college town, a Federal Reserve site and the location of the 4th Circuit U.S. Court of Appeals.

Mural in Richmond.

There’s culture, a solid economic base and as it’s located on the James River, quite scenic. But – there’s no turning away from this – it also served as the capital of the Confederacy. Unlike other destinations, the major players of the Civil War, including Jefferson Davis, Robert E. Lee and Ulysses S. Grant lived there and fought there.

A week after the ugly violence that took place in nearby Charlottesville, I went to see Richmond at this critical juncture in modern history with my work friend, Debby. She had spent much of her childhood in the city and went to undergrad at Sweet Briar, a women’s college just a couple of hours away. A recent transplant to California, Debby certainly doesn’t look at the South as an idol frozen in amber.

But we wondered if there’s still some way to enjoy that which is considered “Southern” and wanted to check out the famous Monument Avenue before it possibly changes forever.

Where to stay

Centrally located Linden Row Inn is rich in history. Over 200 years ago, a very young Edgar Allan Poe was orphaned. His guardian was the property owner; the inn’s courtyard is said to be the site of the garden Poe wrote about in his poem To Helen. In the 19th and 20th centuries, the premises served as the Southern Female Institute and other girls’ schools, counting as its grads that era’s "it girl" sisters Irene Gibson – the famed Gibson Girl – and the future Lady Nancy Astor.

The rooms have amazingly high ceilings, comfy beds and there’s a real, old-fashioned parlor. But the place isn’t in a time warp; in fact, it looks like younger generations love staying here. Local art adorns the walls and the courtyard is a popular gathering place for breakfast and coffee.

Where to eat

Maybe do just a quick drink at Halfway House just to see this amazing place: Debby and I agreed that the cuisine and service wasn’t on point. It dates from 1760, built on land granted by King George II! Everybody you studied in the Revolutionary War and the Civil War dined here. Their kitchen is still outside the building, as was the fire safety method of colonial times.

Everybody from all walks of life eats breakfast at McLean’s, and they have been since 1965. This is real-deal, home-style Southern cooking. Meat selections to go with your eggs or pancakes include fat back, scrapple, country ham, herring and salmon cakes. I tried some flavors that were offbeat to me, but old favorites from Debby’s childhood. Fat back is served very crunchy and deeply hard-fried.

Herring is crispy fried, with a strong but good flavor – similar to anchovies. I also tried, at Debby’s behest, some items that may technically be off-menu, but seemed easy enough for them to rustle up. Scrambled eggs and fish roe are tasty enough, but you absolutely must add salt and pepper. Without seasoning, I couldn’t handle it. I went from there to eggs and brains. Believe it or not, they’re pretty tasty! They’re meaty, kind of like bologna. Maybe bologna is made from brains.

Foodies all over chased Peter Chang all over the South. The former chef for the Chinese Embassy fled his job without proper work permits, a visa or even a passport. Without the ability to take out loans or sign other contracts, his restaurants were unintentional pop-ups. But his creations are some of the most exquisite Chinese food served in this country. And yet, prices are on par with neighborhood joints! Try something you might not have considered trying and be wonderfully surprised: sour flounder and cabbage soup! It’s tangy, light and delicate. Hot and numbing beef has a special pepper that has heat and flavor all at once.

Paddling on the James River in Richmond.

What to do

The James River has Class IV rapids, with kayak and canoe rentals, as well as other active things to do like fishing, rock and tree climbing.

The Virginia Museum of Fine Arts just wrapped up a fun exhibition titled Yves Saint Laurent: The Perfection of Style. The history and glorious clothing were stunning, but who knew that exhibits were the epicenter of selfies now?

The American Civil War Museum has opened a new location at historic Tredegar, an antebellum iron foundry. The thought-provoking exhibits include common household items with their prices before and at the end of the war. In the South, a barrel of flour fetched $1,000, which would be over $14,000 today!

Antifa masks on Monument Avenue in Richmond.

Monument Avenue has seen some protests – including Antifa – but has a strong police presence. Though it mostly features Confederate generals, there’s also a monument to Richmond native and tennis legend Arthur Ashe. If the City of Richmond decides to take them down, it will leave a massive hole in the skyline of that part of town. The avenue stretches for a couple of miles, with the height of the statues towering many stories high.

Here's something you might be interested in.
Submit a free classified
or view all
Rock Concert 4/23!
San Diego Reader Classified ads
March 18, 2020
Free Peer Counseling!
San Diego Reader Classified ads
March 30, 2020
GARDENER
San Diego Reader Classified ads
March 29, 2020
BOB BUYS LIONEL TRAINS
San Diego Reader Classified ads
March 24, 2020
Magazine Rack
San Diego Reader Classified ads
March 25, 2020
Ad
Previous article

Best Reader stories from 2017

Spruce Street, Balboa Park trees, OB and Gaslamp night scenes, grunion, Fitzgerald, Border Angels, Trail Angels, Pendleton for kids, San Diego Zoo's bonobos, Los Coyotes deaths
Next Article

Oversized H&M blazers make a comeback

Style influenced by Bella Hadid, Alexa Chung, Harry Styles, but mostly Mom
Comments
0

Be the first to leave a comment.

Sign in to comment

Sign in

The now-more-(in)famous Robert E. Lee monument in Richmond, VA.
The now-more-(in)famous Robert E. Lee monument in Richmond, VA.

Richmond, the capital of Virginia, is a college town, a Federal Reserve site and the location of the 4th Circuit U.S. Court of Appeals.

Mural in Richmond.

There’s culture, a solid economic base and as it’s located on the James River, quite scenic. But – there’s no turning away from this – it also served as the capital of the Confederacy. Unlike other destinations, the major players of the Civil War, including Jefferson Davis, Robert E. Lee and Ulysses S. Grant lived there and fought there.

A week after the ugly violence that took place in nearby Charlottesville, I went to see Richmond at this critical juncture in modern history with my work friend, Debby. She had spent much of her childhood in the city and went to undergrad at Sweet Briar, a women’s college just a couple of hours away. A recent transplant to California, Debby certainly doesn’t look at the South as an idol frozen in amber.

But we wondered if there’s still some way to enjoy that which is considered “Southern” and wanted to check out the famous Monument Avenue before it possibly changes forever.

Where to stay

Centrally located Linden Row Inn is rich in history. Over 200 years ago, a very young Edgar Allan Poe was orphaned. His guardian was the property owner; the inn’s courtyard is said to be the site of the garden Poe wrote about in his poem To Helen. In the 19th and 20th centuries, the premises served as the Southern Female Institute and other girls’ schools, counting as its grads that era’s "it girl" sisters Irene Gibson – the famed Gibson Girl – and the future Lady Nancy Astor.

The rooms have amazingly high ceilings, comfy beds and there’s a real, old-fashioned parlor. But the place isn’t in a time warp; in fact, it looks like younger generations love staying here. Local art adorns the walls and the courtyard is a popular gathering place for breakfast and coffee.

Where to eat

Maybe do just a quick drink at Halfway House just to see this amazing place: Debby and I agreed that the cuisine and service wasn’t on point. It dates from 1760, built on land granted by King George II! Everybody you studied in the Revolutionary War and the Civil War dined here. Their kitchen is still outside the building, as was the fire safety method of colonial times.

Everybody from all walks of life eats breakfast at McLean’s, and they have been since 1965. This is real-deal, home-style Southern cooking. Meat selections to go with your eggs or pancakes include fat back, scrapple, country ham, herring and salmon cakes. I tried some flavors that were offbeat to me, but old favorites from Debby’s childhood. Fat back is served very crunchy and deeply hard-fried.

Herring is crispy fried, with a strong but good flavor – similar to anchovies. I also tried, at Debby’s behest, some items that may technically be off-menu, but seemed easy enough for them to rustle up. Scrambled eggs and fish roe are tasty enough, but you absolutely must add salt and pepper. Without seasoning, I couldn’t handle it. I went from there to eggs and brains. Believe it or not, they’re pretty tasty! They’re meaty, kind of like bologna. Maybe bologna is made from brains.

Foodies all over chased Peter Chang all over the South. The former chef for the Chinese Embassy fled his job without proper work permits, a visa or even a passport. Without the ability to take out loans or sign other contracts, his restaurants were unintentional pop-ups. But his creations are some of the most exquisite Chinese food served in this country. And yet, prices are on par with neighborhood joints! Try something you might not have considered trying and be wonderfully surprised: sour flounder and cabbage soup! It’s tangy, light and delicate. Hot and numbing beef has a special pepper that has heat and flavor all at once.

Paddling on the James River in Richmond.

What to do

The James River has Class IV rapids, with kayak and canoe rentals, as well as other active things to do like fishing, rock and tree climbing.

The Virginia Museum of Fine Arts just wrapped up a fun exhibition titled Yves Saint Laurent: The Perfection of Style. The history and glorious clothing were stunning, but who knew that exhibits were the epicenter of selfies now?

The American Civil War Museum has opened a new location at historic Tredegar, an antebellum iron foundry. The thought-provoking exhibits include common household items with their prices before and at the end of the war. In the South, a barrel of flour fetched $1,000, which would be over $14,000 today!

Antifa masks on Monument Avenue in Richmond.

Monument Avenue has seen some protests – including Antifa – but has a strong police presence. Though it mostly features Confederate generals, there’s also a monument to Richmond native and tennis legend Arthur Ashe. If the City of Richmond decides to take them down, it will leave a massive hole in the skyline of that part of town. The avenue stretches for a couple of miles, with the height of the statues towering many stories high.

Sponsored
Here's something you might be interested in.
Submit a free classified
or view all
ANYONE KNOW MELANIE CORTEZ?
San Diego Reader Classified ads
March 24, 2020
INSINKERATOR
San Diego Reader Classified ads
March 24, 2020
1986 PONTIAC FIERO $4,500
San Diego Reader Classified ads
March 24, 2020
LEARN TO PLAY
San Diego Reader Classified ads
March 24, 2020
FULL-TIMEJOB
San Diego Reader Classified ads
March 24, 2020
Previous article

A little nod to Joy Division

Tulpa Luna, Red Flag, Glass Spells, Lenny Morris III, David Robles
Next Article

Jigsaw puzzles – while you wait for that slow Zoom conversation

Ocean Beach neighbors put on doorsteps
Comments
0

Be the first to leave a comment.

Sign in to comment

Sign in

Art Reviews — W.S. Di Piero's eye on exhibits Ask a Hipster — Advice you didn't know you needed Best Buys — San Diego shopping Big Screen — Movie commentary Blurt — Music's inside track Booze News — San Diego spirits City Lights — News and politics Classical Music — Immortal beauty Classifieds — Free and easy Cover Stories — Front-page features Excerpts — Literary and spiritual excerpts Famous Former Neighbors — Next-door celebs Feast! — Food & drink reviews Feature Stories — Local news & stories From the Archives — Spotlight on the past Golden Dreams — Talk of the town Here's the Deal — Chad Deal's watering holes Just Announced — The scoop on shows Letters — Our inbox [email protected] — Local movie buffs share favorites Movie Reviews — Our critics' picks and pans Musician Interviews — Up close with local artists Neighborhood News from Stringers — Hyperlocal news News Ticker — News & politics Obermeyer — San Diego politics illustrated Of Note — Concert picks Out & About — What's Happening Overheard in San Diego — Eavesdropping illustrated Poetry — The old and the new Pour Over — Grab a cup Reader Travel — Travel section built by travelers Reading — The hunt for intellectuals Roam-O-Rama — SoCal's best hiking/biking trails San Diego Beer News — Inside San Diego suds SD on the QT — Almost factual news Set 'em Up Joe — Bartenders' drink recipes Sheep and Goats — Places of worship Special Issues — The best of Sports — Athletics without gush Street Style — San Diego streets have style Suit Up — Fashion tips for dudes Theater Reviews — Local productions Theater antireviews — Narrow your search Tin Fork — Silver spoon alternative Under the Radar — Matt Potter's undercover work Unforgettable — Long-ago San Diego Unreal Estate — San Diego's priciest pads Waterfront — All things ocean Your Week — Daily event picks
4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs
Close