The omelette contains too much filling to concern itself with form

Obviously omelettes are front and center at The Omelette Factory, but when I rolled into the large restaurant late on a bustling Saturday morning I toyed with the idea of ordering one of the Southern breakfasts. Then I learned the gravy wasn’t from scratch and the corned beef hash comes out of a can, so I drifted back to the front of the menu. When in doubt, order the item in the restaurant’s name, right?

You can get omelettes with ingredients ranging from bacon and avocado to beef chorizo and jalapeños for a little under 12 bucks. However, a lineup of signature dishes goes for 11 dollars, and my server pointed out several Greek-inspired omelettes as popular choices. The Athenian in particular caught my eye: gyro meat, tomatoes, onions, and olives, all topped with feta cheese.

You can get omelettes with avocado, beef chorizo, jalapeños...

Make that a lot of feta cheese. Not small crumbles, like I’d imagined, but large melting hunks of it. The omelette itself, made with three large eggs, contained too much filling to concern itself with form, so there wasn’t a lot of structural integrity buried under that feta. It didn’t matter — served beside a huge portion of golden crisp hash browns, this dish was about delivering a pile of egged-up ingredients well past the point of satiety.

In this case, the ingredients included that particular blend of gritty lamb and beef trimmings seasoned with oregano known as gyro meat. The diced, canned olives got buried a bit under the pungent cheese, but otherwise the omelette stood resolutely savory and filling. I was more excited by the biscuit I got as bread option with the dish, as it was fresh and warm and made good use of those jelly packets. And whipped-butter packets, of course.

Everything here feels basic and familiar, which is probably why the place fills up with families looking for a simple, generous breakfast.