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Assertive licorice

Tasting notes on Négociant Winery’s 2012 Sangiovese

Place

Negociant Winery

2419 El Cajon Boulevard, San Diego

In 2012, Utah’s happy hour ban went into effect, adding that state to a short list of others that consider special prices on alcoholic drinks a source of great social harm. Later that year, Hurricane Sandy wrought destruction along the Eastern seaboard. No amount of legislation could prevent the property damage and loss of life at the hands of the storm. Quite possibly, no lives were saved by Utah’s teetotaling legislative action. These two things were almost certainly not connected, except in the cosmic sense.

In California, Ronda Rousey won a Strikeforce fight here in San Diego, down on Sports Arena Boulevard, and in so doing earned an invitation to fight in the UFC — which some people consider a titanic breakthrough for women’s equality in professional sports. Up north, workers harvested the grapes that would eventually become Négociant Winery’s 2012 Sangiovese.

Négociant Winery

This complex red, produced and bottled by Négociant but made from grapes grown in the Sierra Foothills, doesn’t like to give up its viticultural secrets. Particularly perplexing is the bitter, earthy, not unpleasant taste that lingers long on the finish. It’s hard to pin down, but it seems to be the flavor of unsweetened chocolate. That is intriguing, since pure chocolate is chemically complex and found in wine more rarely than many expect.

The winery claims blackberry and plum notes, but this amateur finds something like blueberry and violet coming out up front, though they vanish almost immediately. So quickly, in fact, that it’s hard to be confident they’re even there before a much more assertive licorice flavor takes hold, lingering for a while before yielding to supple, tannic black tea and then an analgesic hint of clove hot on the heels of an alcoholic burn.

This wine is not suited for the light wine-bar food at Négociant. It’s basically a domestic Brunello di Montalcino (basically, not exactly), so drink a glass there and enjoy it or buy a bottle and bring it home to open for a substantial meal from the grill.

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Négociant Winery
Négociant Winery
Place

Negociant Winery

2419 El Cajon Boulevard, San Diego

In 2012, Utah’s happy hour ban went into effect, adding that state to a short list of others that consider special prices on alcoholic drinks a source of great social harm. Later that year, Hurricane Sandy wrought destruction along the Eastern seaboard. No amount of legislation could prevent the property damage and loss of life at the hands of the storm. Quite possibly, no lives were saved by Utah’s teetotaling legislative action. These two things were almost certainly not connected, except in the cosmic sense.

In California, Ronda Rousey won a Strikeforce fight here in San Diego, down on Sports Arena Boulevard, and in so doing earned an invitation to fight in the UFC — which some people consider a titanic breakthrough for women’s equality in professional sports. Up north, workers harvested the grapes that would eventually become Négociant Winery’s 2012 Sangiovese.

Négociant Winery

This complex red, produced and bottled by Négociant but made from grapes grown in the Sierra Foothills, doesn’t like to give up its viticultural secrets. Particularly perplexing is the bitter, earthy, not unpleasant taste that lingers long on the finish. It’s hard to pin down, but it seems to be the flavor of unsweetened chocolate. That is intriguing, since pure chocolate is chemically complex and found in wine more rarely than many expect.

The winery claims blackberry and plum notes, but this amateur finds something like blueberry and violet coming out up front, though they vanish almost immediately. So quickly, in fact, that it’s hard to be confident they’re even there before a much more assertive licorice flavor takes hold, lingering for a while before yielding to supple, tannic black tea and then an analgesic hint of clove hot on the heels of an alcoholic burn.

This wine is not suited for the light wine-bar food at Négociant. It’s basically a domestic Brunello di Montalcino (basically, not exactly), so drink a glass there and enjoy it or buy a bottle and bring it home to open for a substantial meal from the grill.

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4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs
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