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Overripe cherries, before the squirrels got to them

2011 Rivera Rupicolo at Proprietor’s Reserve

2011 Rupicolo and a couple of friends
2011 Rupicolo and a couple of friends
Place

Proprietor's Reserve Wine Pub

4711 34th Street, San Diego

Since the state is shaped like a mitten, Michiganders often hold up their left hand so that they can point to where they’re from. Italians are generally too proud to point to a thigh-high boot, but if they did, the Castel del Monte AOC would be somewhere just above the ankle in hot, sunny Puglia. Generally, Puglia is known for assertive, drinkable, straightforward red wines. This 2010 Rupicolo breaks the mold a bit. For starters, it’s made from grapes more at home in central Italy.

A Tuscan wine from Puglia? Perhaps that’s a bit reductive.

A subtle whiff of spicy anise and black cherry lingers on the nose like faint July memories of Scandinavian Christmases past. On the whole, it’s extremely smooth, with a fair balance between acidity and astringency, no vicious alcoholic components, and a chalky finish that’s not bold enough to be earthy but leaves the impression of cold rain falling on a hot stone just before a thunderstorm. That goes well with the sensation of overripe cherries (in a good way), as if the fruit had been neglected, allowed to fall from the trees, and collected only at the last possible second before the birds and animals got to it.

Worldwide, the per bottle retail price of Rivera’s 2010 Rupicolo is on the ascent. Proprietor’s price of $28 for the 2011 is on the high side, but bottle aging has been good to it, and this wine is at its best or getting better right now. Sales to go receive a discount, but even so the in-store price is fair for an intriguing wine.

Proprietor’s has a full menu, and an order of their corned beef tacos would be just the thing to pair up with an oddball wine like this. Don’t shirk engaging a little friendly conversation with your neighbors in the intimate space, which seats only 20.

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2011 Rupicolo and a couple of friends
2011 Rupicolo and a couple of friends
Place

Proprietor's Reserve Wine Pub

4711 34th Street, San Diego

Since the state is shaped like a mitten, Michiganders often hold up their left hand so that they can point to where they’re from. Italians are generally too proud to point to a thigh-high boot, but if they did, the Castel del Monte AOC would be somewhere just above the ankle in hot, sunny Puglia. Generally, Puglia is known for assertive, drinkable, straightforward red wines. This 2010 Rupicolo breaks the mold a bit. For starters, it’s made from grapes more at home in central Italy.

A Tuscan wine from Puglia? Perhaps that’s a bit reductive.

A subtle whiff of spicy anise and black cherry lingers on the nose like faint July memories of Scandinavian Christmases past. On the whole, it’s extremely smooth, with a fair balance between acidity and astringency, no vicious alcoholic components, and a chalky finish that’s not bold enough to be earthy but leaves the impression of cold rain falling on a hot stone just before a thunderstorm. That goes well with the sensation of overripe cherries (in a good way), as if the fruit had been neglected, allowed to fall from the trees, and collected only at the last possible second before the birds and animals got to it.

Worldwide, the per bottle retail price of Rivera’s 2010 Rupicolo is on the ascent. Proprietor’s price of $28 for the 2011 is on the high side, but bottle aging has been good to it, and this wine is at its best or getting better right now. Sales to go receive a discount, but even so the in-store price is fair for an intriguing wine.

Proprietor’s has a full menu, and an order of their corned beef tacos would be just the thing to pair up with an oddball wine like this. Don’t shirk engaging a little friendly conversation with your neighbors in the intimate space, which seats only 20.

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4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs
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