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Should I surf today?

Stay home or suit up and head out?

PB Point from the end of Loring Street
PB Point from the end of Loring Street

The surf is big today, scary big. Surfline.com says it is six to eight feet at Tourmaline Cove, with some sets double overhead. At P.B. Point (False Point) the projections are for over 10 feet, with some sets…too big. A six-foot wave is plenty big.

I check on the water temperature. 56 degrees. There is a brand new $550 Patagonia wetsuit hanging in my closet that should alleviate the concern about the cold water…but it doesn’t. Booties are okay, but gloves are kind of wimpy to wear when surfing in southern California.

During normal surfing conditions the waves break twice, the inside break and the outside break. In gigantic surf a third break appears on the way, way outside. To get out to the big surf an arduous task lies ahead.

So, I decide to stay home. Then the phone rings and it is Jason, my surf buddy. He tells me we are going out for a surf session. This is the primary reason for having surf buddies — to shame us.

So, I suit up and head out. With booties I don’t feel the cold water until it is halfway up my chest, and even then it is not so bad. And the paddle out is not nearly as tough as I feared.

Then I take that first long drop on a big wave, make the bottom turn, and start gliding along the wave. I don’t feel the cold, I am not tired, I don’t feel lazy, and I have no fear.

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Two poems by Julia Wehner

A reminder of how richly good it is to feel, and to live
PB Point from the end of Loring Street
PB Point from the end of Loring Street

The surf is big today, scary big. Surfline.com says it is six to eight feet at Tourmaline Cove, with some sets double overhead. At P.B. Point (False Point) the projections are for over 10 feet, with some sets…too big. A six-foot wave is plenty big.

I check on the water temperature. 56 degrees. There is a brand new $550 Patagonia wetsuit hanging in my closet that should alleviate the concern about the cold water…but it doesn’t. Booties are okay, but gloves are kind of wimpy to wear when surfing in southern California.

During normal surfing conditions the waves break twice, the inside break and the outside break. In gigantic surf a third break appears on the way, way outside. To get out to the big surf an arduous task lies ahead.

So, I decide to stay home. Then the phone rings and it is Jason, my surf buddy. He tells me we are going out for a surf session. This is the primary reason for having surf buddies — to shame us.

So, I suit up and head out. With booties I don’t feel the cold water until it is halfway up my chest, and even then it is not so bad. And the paddle out is not nearly as tough as I feared.

Then I take that first long drop on a big wave, make the bottom turn, and start gliding along the wave. I don’t feel the cold, I am not tired, I don’t feel lazy, and I have no fear.

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4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs
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