Iván, Boyd, and Danee in the Raíces kitchen.
Iván stirs the "Red Monarch" chilaquiles based on his grandmother's recipe.
Far removed from high-end buffets and trendy concept eateries lays Raíces Cocina Vegana, one of at least three veggie-centric bicycle delivery services in Tijuana.
Active for about 4 months, Raíces prepares vegan burritos at the Alta Mira house of Iván, a Tijuana local, and Boyd, an Alabama native who has spent time between New Orleans, San Diego, and TJ.
Iván and Boyd are joined by a rotating collective of friends who operate the kitchen, delivery, and finances in an explicitly leaderless, anarchist manner (leftovers are donated to the local Food Not Bombs chapter).
Ingredients are a combination of organic products purchased from neighborhood stores and conventional items from street vendors on Calle Segunda, who source their goods from Mercado Hidalgo, which in turn buys directly from distributors in the south.
“Everything we make is very simple,” Iván says as he roasts peppers and tomatoes on the stove. “This is my Grandmother’s recipe.”
The dish — red sauce chilaquiles — is dubbed “Red Monarch” after a Graves at Sea doom metal tune which blasts from the living room as the sauce is liquefied in a blender.
The menu rotates daily between a handful of other recipes such as apple soyrizo, chilaquiles with mole or green sauce (called “Green Hell” after the Misfits song), and potato/onion/tomato/peppers.
At 25 pesos for 2 ‘ritos, the Tijuana local or day-tripper can place an order by sending a Facebook message before 1:30pm on weekdays.
If you are hanging out at a park or bar near Centro, your food will arrive before 2.
The collective is currently looking for a brick and mortar location downtown, possibly on Calle Sexta, which is also called Flores Magón in tribute to the brothers behind an anarchist uprising that seized Tijuana and Mexicali for about six months in 1911, precipitating the Mexican Revolution.