The wind feels like its coming from the south, but what do I know? My knowledge of directions is anecdotal. The Pacific is west, Baja south, the desert east on the other side of those rocks, and L.A. Is north.

This is the kind of wind that whispers, wind chimes disturbed but not constant, flagpoles on houses creaking as the breeze shifts, but not enough to slap against the stucco.

My beautiful wild Pittosporum Silver Sheen bends horizontally, the springs back up waving at the crows and the hummingbirds and my friend Bill sitting at his dining table watching the world and the UPS guy, go by.

I watched the Oprah Master Class episode with Laird Hamilton last night- using fear to your advantage, ruffling feathers if necessary, living your joy not your pain.

Surfing is poetic. I'm not much of an athlete, no desire. but watching the surfers- that's been my life long sport. As a teen, and well into my 30s I worshipped on the sand. Waking at dawn, slipping into a van, bundled up, down to Baja, trestles, Huntington Pier whatever, there to set up my little viewing station or the campsite

Always burgers and fries or strips and A&W, or chicken tacos and beer on the way home after a day in the sun, hours dodging the smoke from the campfire, cheeks burning, sand everywhere, smiling, kissing, smiling, dozing, surfers.

Over the years when I'm feeling restless I'll take myself down to a bluff, or a rest area, overlooking the ocean and just let my thought drift. This my own yoga technique, my own personal meditation. Pelicans swooping and sailing on the jet stream, graceful and awkward at the same time.

More like this:


quillpena March 8, 2012 @ 11:29 p.m.

Sometimes just the smell of the sea is intoxicating. Add the sights and the sounds and it's absolute joy.


richzombie March 9, 2012 @ 10:17 a.m.

very very nice - and ditto on Q it is all that - good


nan shartel March 9, 2012 @ 11:50 a.m.

i can't tell u how much i love ur writing is sedately magnanimous ...

humans riding the oceans flow..the only thing better is rock climbing at Lily or hang gliding from the Black Beach cliffs...this blog is a winner!!!


Tallsharon March 10, 2012 @ 8:37 a.m.

I feel so fortunate to have found this space and all of you. You all inspire me daily, and motivate me to write! Thank you!


Ruth Newell March 10, 2012 @ 11:44 a.m.

Excellent writing, TS! Laird the master of Giants, "smiling, kissing, smiling, dozing, surfers"--good, good stuff. (And you KNOW we feel likewise:)


MackZender March 11, 2012 @ 11:16 a.m.

This is a soft, lilting piece of writing, TallSharon. I shall add you to my list of favorites whose archives I will explore as time allows.


Sign in to comment

Win a $25 Gift Card to
The Broken Yolk Cafe

Join our newsletter list

Each newsletter subscription means another chance to win!