Anchor ads are not supported on this page.

4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs

Thrilla in Villa Manila

“We have 7,100 islands,” says Nancy Mendoza. “Not 10,000.”

Nancy knows. She’s talking about the Philippines. That’s where she’s from. Now she owns this restaurant Villa Manila (500 East 8th Street, National City, 619-477-8512), with some of the best Filipino food I’ve tasted.

I had just thrown out something about the Philippines having “10,000 islands,” like I knew what I was talking about.

Same goes for the food. I realize I don’t know jack about Filipino food, outside the safety zones of pancit and lumpia and adobo.

I chanced in here around 8.45 at night.

Inside has Filipino scenes and traditional crafts around the walls

First thing I saw inside was this Filipino family, mom, dad, daughter, all ladling themselves out a steaming noodle soup, from a beautiful two-layer bowl of white china with a candle heating the soup from below.

They looked as if they were in heaven.

“We come here for this,” said Harwell, the dad. Ruth, his wife, and Hannah, their 16-year-old daughter, nod in silent agreement.

“It’s the noodles. It’s like being home.”

They were slurping a sotanghon con caldo, a soup using a crystal-clear noodle made from mung beans. The bowl’s loaded with shrimp, chicken, pork, plus mushrooms, cabbage, and, for sure, garlic.

Natch, I have to order it. It costs $10.25, but I get a half portion for half. It’s delicious.

Sotanghon

And here’s the thing, the longer you go, the more the candle underneath evaporates the juices and the juicier and more sabroso they get.

I tell Nancy I’ll buy the candle-soup bowls. They’re that nice. “Actually I brought them back from Manila,” says Nancy. “If you’ll pay the air fare for me to go pick up another, we could have a deal.”

Right…Oh man. So much more I’d love to get my teeth into. The adobo, of course, but then Nancy tells me about Pinakbet, a kind of Filipino chop suey, with everything from eggplant and squash to ampalaya, that beautiful bitter-bitter gourd that gives the dish its kick.

Sigh. Nancy knows. Guess I’ll have to eat other stuff. Make a proper Tin Fork of this place. It’s a tough life…

Ruth, daughter Hannah, Harwell, Sonny the waiter, and in front, Nancy the owner

Meantime let’s just say Villa Manila’s a Thrilla, a real, classy Filipino eatery here in the heart of Little Manila.

Watch for a Tin Fork, soon as I can.

Here's something you might be interested in.
Submit a free classified
or view all

Previous article

Lang Lang in San Diego

“We have 7,100 islands,” says Nancy Mendoza. “Not 10,000.”

Nancy knows. She’s talking about the Philippines. That’s where she’s from. Now she owns this restaurant Villa Manila (500 East 8th Street, National City, 619-477-8512), with some of the best Filipino food I’ve tasted.

I had just thrown out something about the Philippines having “10,000 islands,” like I knew what I was talking about.

Same goes for the food. I realize I don’t know jack about Filipino food, outside the safety zones of pancit and lumpia and adobo.

I chanced in here around 8.45 at night.

Inside has Filipino scenes and traditional crafts around the walls

First thing I saw inside was this Filipino family, mom, dad, daughter, all ladling themselves out a steaming noodle soup, from a beautiful two-layer bowl of white china with a candle heating the soup from below.

They looked as if they were in heaven.

“We come here for this,” said Harwell, the dad. Ruth, his wife, and Hannah, their 16-year-old daughter, nod in silent agreement.

“It’s the noodles. It’s like being home.”

They were slurping a sotanghon con caldo, a soup using a crystal-clear noodle made from mung beans. The bowl’s loaded with shrimp, chicken, pork, plus mushrooms, cabbage, and, for sure, garlic.

Natch, I have to order it. It costs $10.25, but I get a half portion for half. It’s delicious.

Sotanghon

And here’s the thing, the longer you go, the more the candle underneath evaporates the juices and the juicier and more sabroso they get.

I tell Nancy I’ll buy the candle-soup bowls. They’re that nice. “Actually I brought them back from Manila,” says Nancy. “If you’ll pay the air fare for me to go pick up another, we could have a deal.”

Right…Oh man. So much more I’d love to get my teeth into. The adobo, of course, but then Nancy tells me about Pinakbet, a kind of Filipino chop suey, with everything from eggplant and squash to ampalaya, that beautiful bitter-bitter gourd that gives the dish its kick.

Sigh. Nancy knows. Guess I’ll have to eat other stuff. Make a proper Tin Fork of this place. It’s a tough life…

Ruth, daughter Hannah, Harwell, Sonny the waiter, and in front, Nancy the owner

Meantime let’s just say Villa Manila’s a Thrilla, a real, classy Filipino eatery here in the heart of Little Manila.

Watch for a Tin Fork, soon as I can.

Sponsored
Here's something you might be interested in.
Submit a free classified
or view all
Ask a Hipster — Advice you didn't know you needed Big Screen — Movie commentary Blurt — Music's inside track Booze News — San Diego spirits Classical Music — Immortal beauty Classifieds — Free and easy Cover Stories — Front-page features Drinks All Around — Bartenders' drink recipes Excerpts — Literary and spiritual excerpts Feast! — Food & drink reviews Feature Stories — Local news & stories Fishing Report — What’s getting hooked from ship and shore From the Archives — Spotlight on the past Golden Dreams — Talk of the town The Gonzo Report — Making the musical scene, or at least reporting from it Letters — Our inbox Movies@Home — Local movie buffs share favorites Movie Reviews — Our critics' picks and pans Musician Interviews — Up close with local artists Neighborhood News from Stringers — Hyperlocal news News Ticker — News & politics Obermeyer — San Diego politics illustrated Outdoors — Weekly changes in flora and fauna Overheard in San Diego — Eavesdropping illustrated Poetry — The old and the new Reader Travel — Travel section built by travelers Reading — The hunt for intellectuals Roam-O-Rama — SoCal's best hiking/biking trails San Diego Beer — Inside San Diego suds SD on the QT — Almost factual news Sheep and Goats — Places of worship Special Issues — The best of Street Style — San Diego streets have style Surf Diego — Real stories from those braving the waves Theater — On stage in San Diego this week Tin Fork — Silver spoon alternative Under the Radar — Matt Potter's undercover work Unforgettable — Long-ago San Diego Unreal Estate — San Diego's priciest pads Your Week — Daily event picks
4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs
Close

Anchor ads are not supported on this page.