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For better or for worse, there's but a small percentage of chefs who go Tony Gwynn, spending their entire careers in San Diego. With a restaurant scene that's everchanging and a clientele that's tough to peg, much less enjoy long-term success with, doing so is a daunting task.

Yet some stalwarts continue to plug away, either from a singular eatery à la Bernard Guillas at the La Jolla Beach and Tennis Club's Marine Room or multiple locations, such as Amy DiBiase, a respected toque who's logged time at Laurel, Baleen, Roseville, and, now, The Shores Restaurant.

At her new place, a property under the La Jolla Beach and Tennis Club umbrella, she's working under the aforementioned Guillas, who wants her to put her own stamp on the restaurant but is allowing her to do it gradually so as not to send long-time Shores patrons into shock. As such, the resto's menu is tastefully salt-and-peppered with touches of DiBiase's trademark Mediterranean-inspired fare.

Those who are looking for a full-on blast of DiBiase's style can find it at a November 2 wine dinner featuring Paso-squeezed juice from Niner Wine Estates. An opportunity like this is worth writing about food, wine, and Paso Robles for a second day in a row.

DiBiase will start out with Profiteroles stuffed with persimmon-stoked Humboldt Fog goat cheese, thyme-cauliflower fritters, and candied pancetta before moving on to a three-tiered "Muscovy duck study" that includes rillettes, duck prosciutto, and a terrine of the fatty fowl. Short-rib osso bucco with smoked celery root and a plate of wine-friendly American fromage will follow, accompanied by a red-heavy array of vino.

If DiBiase stays true to form, this meal will prove well worth the $55 per person price tag. The Shores Restaurant is at 8110 Camino del Oro in La Jolla.

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