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The Wife hails from Kansas City, and Chicago-style deep-dish pizza is to her Midwest palate what the the broad, wafer-thin wedges at Bronx Pizza are to me. Yeah, we've eaten at Ai Marmi in Rome, and yeah, it's probably the best pizza we've ever had. But the pizza of your youth is the pizza of your youth. So, when she discovered Lefty's...we stopped going to Bronx for a while.

The Wife likes spinach-sausage pizza, and Lefty's has the most porky sausage we've found, low on grease and laced with anise. The sauce manages sharp acidity without shading over into bitterness. But it's the crust that makes her swoon. Her words: "The buttery, oily crunch on the outside, giving way to the pillowy interior. And so tender. It's always best if you eat it there, but if you take it home and put it on a stone in a hot oven for a few minutes, you can get it back to maybe 85 percent."

(There have been occasions, however, when the crust has seemed to stray from the true path, to lose the lovely interplay of textures and just hit one bready note. Anyone else have this experience, or were we just having a bad day?)

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