4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs

Donovan’s Wades 20,000 Leagues Beyond Beefy Comfort Zone

Situated in the Gaslamp, in the space that housed the failed Donovan’s Circle of Fifths (and before that, the failed Australian resto, Bondai), Donovan’s Prime Seafood opened quietly earlier this year. However, since landing a chef from the kitchen at the Grand Del Mar’s five-star fine dinery, Addison, they’ve become significantly more vocal, touting his pedigree and seasonally-driven cuisine. The rep of the Donovan’s family of restaurants is built almost exclusively on their treatment of mammals. So, I was intrigued to check out the sea fare being pumped out at DPS, and had the chance to do so last night.

Executive chef Kemar Durfield’s dishes exhibit the multitude of components, thoughtful composition and pretty plating one would expect from an Addison expat. A hamachi tartare appetizer is presented as a colorful cylinder that’s as tasty as it is attractive. Layers of diced fresh fish are topped with buttery avocado and whole lime segments that explode with contrasting, palate cleansing citrus zing. Chili oil goes unnoticed at first, but offers a clean, creeping heat on the back end that’s delightful.

Image

The most delicious and all-around successful dish I sampled was a medley of perfectly cooked prawns, mussels and clams hanging out in a shallow pool of vibrant, peppery gazpacho broth that, in tandem with a celery leaf garnish, evoked memories of mornings spent sipping Bloody Marys. Billed as a “seafood cocktail,” it’s an inspired gourmet take on zesty coctels from Mexico, a place Durfield recently visited and drew inspiration and an ingredient for this dish from—tiny slivers of young coconut bring all the flavor of the fruit with much less sugar and adds an interesting textural element.

Image

It’s still early and clearly Durfield’s still settling in and fine tuning things, but there’s solid seafood cookery happening at DPS and, no matter how fancy and innovative the accoutrements, that is—and has to be—the most important factor at any seafood restaurant. DPS is located at 333 Fifth Avenue.

Here's something you might be interested in.
Submit a free classified
or view all

Previous article

Santa Anas come in from high-pressure area over Nevada or Utah

Go to Cuyamaca or Palomar to get relief
Next Article

Grossmont High students break the code

“It’s basically a war on girls”

Situated in the Gaslamp, in the space that housed the failed Donovan’s Circle of Fifths (and before that, the failed Australian resto, Bondai), Donovan’s Prime Seafood opened quietly earlier this year. However, since landing a chef from the kitchen at the Grand Del Mar’s five-star fine dinery, Addison, they’ve become significantly more vocal, touting his pedigree and seasonally-driven cuisine. The rep of the Donovan’s family of restaurants is built almost exclusively on their treatment of mammals. So, I was intrigued to check out the sea fare being pumped out at DPS, and had the chance to do so last night.

Executive chef Kemar Durfield’s dishes exhibit the multitude of components, thoughtful composition and pretty plating one would expect from an Addison expat. A hamachi tartare appetizer is presented as a colorful cylinder that’s as tasty as it is attractive. Layers of diced fresh fish are topped with buttery avocado and whole lime segments that explode with contrasting, palate cleansing citrus zing. Chili oil goes unnoticed at first, but offers a clean, creeping heat on the back end that’s delightful.

Image

The most delicious and all-around successful dish I sampled was a medley of perfectly cooked prawns, mussels and clams hanging out in a shallow pool of vibrant, peppery gazpacho broth that, in tandem with a celery leaf garnish, evoked memories of mornings spent sipping Bloody Marys. Billed as a “seafood cocktail,” it’s an inspired gourmet take on zesty coctels from Mexico, a place Durfield recently visited and drew inspiration and an ingredient for this dish from—tiny slivers of young coconut bring all the flavor of the fruit with much less sugar and adds an interesting textural element.

Image

It’s still early and clearly Durfield’s still settling in and fine tuning things, but there’s solid seafood cookery happening at DPS and, no matter how fancy and innovative the accoutrements, that is—and has to be—the most important factor at any seafood restaurant. DPS is located at 333 Fifth Avenue.

Sponsored
Here's something you might be interested in.
Submit a free classified
or view all
Comments
0

Be the first to leave a comment.

Sign in to comment

Sign in

Ask a Hipster — Advice you didn't know you needed Big Screen — Movie commentary Blurt — Music's inside track Booze News — San Diego spirits Classical Music — Immortal beauty Classifieds — Free and easy Cover Stories — Front-page features Drinks All Around — Bartenders' drink recipes Excerpts — Literary and spiritual excerpts Feast! — Food & drink reviews Feature Stories — Local news & stories From the Archives — Spotlight on the past Golden Dreams — Talk of the town Letters — Our inbox [email protected] — Local movie buffs share favorites Movie Reviews — Our critics' picks and pans Musician Interviews — Up close with local artists Neighborhood News from Stringers — Hyperlocal news News Ticker — News & politics Obermeyer — San Diego politics illustrated Outdoors — Weekly changes in flora and fauna Overheard in San Diego — Eavesdropping illustrated Poetry — The old and the new Reader Travel — Travel section built by travelers Reading — The hunt for intellectuals Roam-O-Rama — SoCal's best hiking/biking trails San Diego Beer — Inside San Diego suds SD on the QT — Almost factual news Sheep and Goats — Places of worship Special Issues — The best of Street Style — San Diego streets have style Surf Diego — Real stories from those braving the waves Tin Fork — Silver spoon alternative Under the Radar — Matt Potter's undercover work Unforgettable — Long-ago San Diego Unreal Estate — San Diego's priciest pads Your Week — Daily event picks
4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs
Close