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Your Week — Daily event picks
Gran Torino
If Gran Torino is to be Eastwood's final acting role, he went out on a high note. The title holds a powerful symbolism; a man's life work turning out American muscle. Walt Kowalski, the stoic xenophobe, gives the world the finger as everything he values is ripped away from him and the world he once knew is swallowed up by change. He can point to only that stone cold beauty in his garage and say, "I made this. I can count on this. I can count on me. But that's all.". The character transformation is incredible: the curmudgeon opens up to the Hmong family next door, and a touching pathos allows him to do for an earnest young man and woman what he could not for his own children. In the end, Walt still does things his way, and takes care of business.— January 18, 2009 11:10 p.m.
King's Fish House
It's difficult, if not impossible, to find anything approximating the variety of incredible fresh seafood available at King's Fish House. Take for instance the live tank housing Maine lobsters, Dungeness Crabs and while in season local spiny lobsters, all blissfully ignorant of the steamy fate awaiting them. Add to that up to 12 species of fresh fish prepared simply, to bring out the best flavors of each. What's more, one can belly up to the oyster bar for 6 different types of fresh oysters as well as clams on the half shell and fresh ceviche. However, don't be afraid to bring along the landlubbers in the crowd; King's can turn out a great steak as well. Housemade soups and sauces complement the rest of the menu. Dine in casual style in the main dining room or stretch out in the lounge and enjoy quick, attentive service. My only disappointment was in the highly Americanized sushi bar which, while tasty, lacked in presentation. Overall quality and portions are in line with pricing.— December 28, 2008 10:25 p.m.
Island Prime
This is by far the best Cohn venture yet. Bravo to Chef Owner Deborah Scott, who not only oversees the first-class kitchen but also works the dining room to ensure her guests are enjoying themselves. C Level, the all-day side of the operation offers incredible lunch and dinner selections (be sure to try the lobster macaroni and cheese!) while the Island Prime dining room fuses cutting edge, top-quality seafood, beef, lamb and vegetarian works of art. Stop in for lunch, an unforgettable dinner, or happy hour with a panoramic view of the harbor. You can't lose!— December 21, 2008 8:38 a.m.
Panda Inn
I've found the most incredible Asian Sunday brunch in town! Just inside the door one is treated to wonderful, spicy scents and the snappy, efficient sounds of quick, bustling service. There are two price levels for the buffet; each includes non-alcoholic beverages. For an additional $3 one can add a superior Spanish sparkling wine or Mai Tais (or both). The selection is remarkable. To begin, we sampled egg rolls, pot stickers and fried pork chop slices. We found Ahi and chicken salads, platters of generously-cut sushi, colossal scallops, beef, chicken and vegetable entrees all to be of superior quality. By far the highlight of the visit, however was the soup bar. The charming hostess placed our selected vegetables, chicken, shrimp, and barbeque pork atop won tons or noodles then dunked and dished up our creations in a glorious stock. Right in the middle of this station we discovered the vegetable or tea-smoked duck moo shu with hoisin sauce, also served by the hostess. A word of advice: pick up an extra plate as you sidle along the won ton soup bar -- tucked away in the corner is a small but satisfying dim sum cart! We tossed in a few cookies and cakes to round out the afternoon, and rolled out immensely happy. Get on down to Horton Plaza AFTER the holiday crowds thin out!— December 14, 2008 10:40 p.m.
Tom Ham's Lighthouse
I remember visiting Tom Ham's as a kid with my parents; I've been here for an anniversary dinner and for lunch, but never have I tried the Sunday Brunch -- what was I thinking! While being seated, you are guided past a circle of tables crowned by shiny chafing dishes - impressive - yet just ahead is a jaw-dropping boatload of fresh seafood! We feasted on giant barbequed shrimp skewered on sugar cane slivers and sampled oysters on the half shell, peel-and-eat shrimp, three types of ceviche, smoked tuna, yellowtail and mahi mahi; poached salmon, lox and bagels, then gorged ourselves on Alaskan King crab legs. A quick tour of the hot dishes revealed many treats, such as beef and chicken skewers, barbequed beef ribs, salmon, seafood pasta, slab bacon, sausage and country potatoes. There is a well appointed omelette station as well as a waffle station accompanied by fresh pastries. We rounded out the meal with a stop at the dessert table bursting with pies, petits fours, cookies and truffles. We enjoyed the included coffee, juice and champagne while taking in a picturesque stretch of the harbor. This brunch is a value for anyone who loves quality seafood. Try it out soon!— November 27, 2008 10:35 a.m.
Bentowich
BRUNCH is the theme here. On Sundays, this Cinderella sleeper of a restaurant can cast off its workaday, weekday hit-and-miss reputation for shoddy product and service and truly shine. Unlike the stereotypical Acapulco or El Torito Gringo-ized brunches, Rancho La Lena proudly offers truly authentic recipes straight from Abuelita's kitchen. Here's the trick - arrive early enough to secure good parking in the area, but be able to hold out long enough for the savory, freshly grilled chicken to be set out on the buffet somewhere between 11 and 12. Meanwhile, feast on fresh menudo, chilaquiles, chorizo and eggs, chiles verde and colorado, barbequed beef ribs, refried beans, Spanish rice, an incredible chicken mole, a basic omelette bar and FRESH hand-made corn and flour tortillas. Quench your thirst with horchata, tamarindo, orange juice, coffee (or add on your choice from the full bar) for a very reasonable price and stretch out on the comfortable patio (the interior dining room is very small and less popular). Service for brunch has always been snappy and prompt. Get out and enjoy this gem of a brunch in Old Town soon!— November 13, 2008 10:57 p.m.
Tapenade
This evening my boss treated some of us to dinner at Tapenade (love you, Kathy!) on Fay Avenue in La Jolla. It proved to be an incredible evening. The snappy, technically correct, brilliantly efficient team service and starched white linens belie a welcoming, cozy atmosphere. We started off with the 2003 Mi Sueno Napa Valley Syrah. We each enjoyed a first course from the Fall seasonal menu: two of us ordered the Gravlax. This is not the typical presentation; the salmon is tinted a dark maroon by curing in beet juice; the slices are arranged to form a perfect square within an exquisitely painted plate and garnished with a red and gold beet salad. The Gnocchi was presented alongside morel mushrooms and draped with Reggiano Parmesan. The earthy, woodsy flavor was incredible. I sampled the Mushroom Ravioli, also garnished with Reggiano and gently wading in a port reduction sauce that was lightened by whipping to a froth. Yet these selections only served to set the stage for the entrees. Like a well-choreographed act, the staff whisked away the first course, crumbed the table and staged our silver. We accompanied the entrees with a bottle of 2006 Russian River Emeritus Pinot Noir. Two of us dined on the wild Seabass over a compote of Fall root vegetables, onion, orange sections and squash in a savory citrus sauce. The fish was cooked perfectly, and beads of moisture clung to the inside of the flakes when separated. Another in our party chose the veal cheeks slowly braised and presented alongside a polenta cake and carrots, broccoli and beans. As I was the only man among three women, we shared tastes of all the entrees. I have come to learn this is how things are done (guys, just go with it). THIS ONE TAKES THE CAKE. YOU OWE IT TO YOURSELF TO TASTE THIS DISH ONCE BEFORE YOU DIE! To describe the texture of the veal as delicate is to do it an injustice. The fourth guest chose the roasted duck, slices of breast and leg meat in a port / mission fig sauce and a chard canneloni. This proved to be a masterful combination of sensations, the sweet and the savory, the tender and the crisp. For dessert we sampled the creme brulee trio, (vanilla, chocolate and coffee) cheese sampler with artisan walnut bread (garnished with preserves and Champagne grapes) and the most incredible apple tart on earth. The menu pricing averaged in the $30 range, and while an evening at Tapenade might not be a nightly excursion for many of us, I contend that if you take into consideration the flavor, presentation and service it can be considered value for the price. We clung to the stems of our port glasses (1985 Dow's) as the restaurant closed around us. We strolled into the gathering cool of the evening and parted better friends than when we entered. Treat yourself to an evening at Tapenade to commemorate a milestone or to celebrate just being alive soon.— October 31, 2008 12:54 a.m.
Pampas Argentine Grill
What a rare find, right in the heart of Kearny Mesa. We did a light sampling of the menu this past Saturday night. My friend and I both loved the calamari appetizer, with its frizzled capers which was served with the predictable but slightly off-center marinara and an unusual tartar sauce. We dined on the Costillas con Chimichurri (short ribs with oil / garlic sauce) and the Vacio (organic prime beef loin, seasoned and simply grilled). Both meat temps (med. rare) were perfect and quickly served alongside a succulent fresh vegetable garnish. The garlic mashed potatoes were all they promised to be, and very moist. My friend (a fry freak)ordered these rather than trying the oft-touted Argentine fries, as he was put off by the merchandising from our server who described them as, "topped with a white sauce". I bit, and was served gloriously crisp yet entirely pedestrian shoestring fries generously garnished with minced parsley and raw garlic which was far too strong for this application (as opposed to the Chimichurri sauce perfectly paired with the baguette set before us for bread service). We were treated to live jazz (a wonderful presentation of standards with a distinctly Latin flavor) and the room gradually filled with regulars, greeted by the humbly courteous staff. Portions and quality were well in line with menu pricing, and we left very satisfied. Do not deny yourself the opportunity to sample the food, service and charm of Pampas -- and soon.— October 21, 2008 9:53 p.m.