Max Nash

Articles by Max Nash

No Mexican food without epazote

A cure for worms

l was working in my herb garden last weekend when my neighbor, pulling weeds on his side of the fence, retched. “My God,” he said. “What are you doing over there? What is that smell?” ...

The gruesome heritage of the avocado

Bullish men charge each other. We set the guacamole on the coffee table.

When Vic was a little boy on his way to school, he’d shortcut through an avocado grove. Kicking through dead leaves, he worried he might startle a rattler. The quiet also unnerved him. One morning, ...


The label shows a factory. A white one-story building with a red-tile roof and brown smokestack stands beside a beige two-story building. In front of the buildings on a green lawn, three barrels and two ...

Little Debbie

‘Little Debbie doesn’t like to give interviews,” said her father, Ellsworth McKee, board chairman and chief administrative officer of McKee Foods Corporation. When I reached Mr. McKee at his Chattanooga home, he was evasive about ...


In 1668 the Marquis de Montespan was seen approaching Versailles in a coach draped in black silk with a pair of stag’s horns wobbling on top. The Marquis no doubt chose stag’s horns because they ...

Jews, Christians, and the pig

Enthusiasm for sausage and baby-back ribs segued into hatred

The last time I was in Jerusalem I went to Mahane Yehuda, the city’s central market, where I haggled with a spice merchant over the price of dried mint. The merchant refused to lower his ...

Fat boy and his tortilla

"Can’t your parents afford bread?”

My brother was a talented artist. When he was bored, or if I irritated him by doing something outrageous like reading his comic books or touching his ten-speed, he produced life-like sketches of a pig ...

Grape Leaves and the Gulf War

In Israeli kitchen during the build-up

The week 150,000 Iraqi troops invaded Kuwait, I felt relieved when I went with Marc and Leah to the airport. Security was tight A lot of plainclothesmen in bulky Israeli sportscoats stood around the lobby.

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