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Stories by Ed Bedford

Slow Down at Caffe Vergnano 1882

"Everything here is imported,” Kaitlyn says. “Everything?” I ask. “Everything, except for Ferrila and me.” Ferrila, the other barista, gives a little wave from the strangest espresso machine you ever did see. It’s like a …

July 13, 2011
Beer Heaven: Hoppy Daze in San Diego

"I like my beers like I like my women," says the guy on the stool next to me. "Bitter and strong." Chris Dunn’s in the military. He’s here with Betsy and Clementine. Uh, they’re not …

Ryan's Good at Gyros

It’s the kid. Kole. Three years old with a giant cheeseburger in his mitts. Tries to take a giant bite. Gets ketchup and mayo all over his nose and cheeks. Then looks up to his …

July 6, 2011
El Museo Restaurant

Two wooden, life-size vaqueros glare out at you from behind their giant cigars. They may be the last evidence that this used to be a curio store, here at the bottom of Avenida Revolución in …

June 29, 2011
Sweet Belt of Alpine

They sit in a row: Bad Boy, Duet, Odin’s Raven. We’re talking bottles. Beer. Alpine beer. Yum. “You first,” says Bro Bill. He’s Carla’s brother. “Ladies first,” I say, looking at Marjorie. She’s Bill’s glamorous …

June 22, 2011
Pizza Ain't a Pizza

“Got three minutes?” Mickey Gonzalez is lookin’ at me, and you just know he’s from back East ’cause he speaks in that big “You talkin’ to me?” voice. “I’ve got a fresh one in the …

June 8, 2011
Barbarians' Delight at Calypso Cafe

Only rich people and felons live behind walls, right? Society’s afraid of felons, and rich people are afraid of society. So, back to Medieval days! Walled cities! Uh, except now we call them gated communities. …

June 1, 2011
Night-Hunger Dreams Fulfilled at Sunrise Deli

If you’re a squirrel reading this, I have a great restaurant for you: Brent Fogwell’s six-acre macadamia tree farm in Spring Valley. He just lets the nuts drop from his 300 trees. But better hurry. …

May 25, 2011
Angry Taco, Happy Hour at Rockin' Baja in Old Town

"You happy?” I ask Heidi. “I’m happy,” she says. “For another 30 minutes, anyway.” Erk. Thirty minutes? We’re talking happy hour. Heidi’s in charge of the bar. I look at my watch. Gadzooks, she’s right. …

May 18, 2011
Say the Word at Hodad's

"Please send some more tourists. The last ones were delicious.” This motto is on an Aussie license plate, one of their crocodiles smiling out from it. Shane is up on a stepladder, screwing in another …

Chomp and Chat at Côté Sud Bistro

Cote Sud appears to have closed for good. Please see Ed Bedford's update of Monday, May 9. For posterity's sake, here is the review: "You sit next to Eva,” says Carla. “Then we won’t bump …

May 4, 2011
Railroad Grub in Chinatown

Chinatown? What Chinatown? I’m standing at Third Avenue at Market. Looking down to…Chinatown? Who could ever tell? A century or so ago, we all would have been able to, my friend Dr. Chuang once told …

April 27, 2011
Gremlins Grumble at Cardamom Café

Galen’s walking a mile in President Obama’s shoes. “My dad’s Ethiopian, my mom’s American,” she says. “He’s a lawyer. My mom was always baking at home, so when this restaurant came up for lease, he …

April 20, 2011
Mother Kwan

Don’t know why I expect things to be cheaper just because they’re in Chula Vista. Guess I think rents must be lower than, say, downtown. Or uptown. But when I check the prices at Mea …

April 13, 2011
I stumble on the MIHO food truck in South Park

It’s just a truck. A big white square food- wagon outside a bar. But look at its chalkboard menu: Local wild halibut, side of ceviche tostada, $4.75 Mandarin salad — local Satsuma mandarin, roasted local …

Russ Was Right

Russell, Russell. This was your idea. Now I’m here, but you’re not. Russ died last month, you may have read. Pretty young. He was the Reader’s chief proofreader, which means he was a cross between …

March 30, 2011
Lots of Laffs at the Sun Deck Grill

"Bet you can’t,” says Larry. “Bet I can,” I say. “Five-dollar meal at the Hotel Del Coronado?” He laughs into the phone. “No way.” Larry’s an old pal. Wants to get together. Except he lives …

March 23, 2011
Taco vs. Sandwich

It’s amazing what you find when you’re cruisin’, jes’ cruisin’. Actually, I’m threading my way up through the Gaslamp toward the bus stop at Third and Broadway. But I may be open to a snick …

March 16, 2011
The Yellow Deli's Own People

"Mama, you never yell at us except when you drink coffee.” “That’s why we drink tea,” says Jennifer, “except sometimes.” But Jennifer likes to be called by her religious name, Bathsheba. “It means ‘daughter of …

March 9, 2011
The Waterfront Tavern

"I’m jonesing to get back down to Panama,” says Jeff. “‘Jonesing’?” says this old guy who is seated next to me. “Yeah,” Jeff says. “Like, longing.” Huh. I’d forgotten the word myself. But Jeff, it …

March 2, 2011
The Salad? The Salad — Caesar's Restaurante in TJ

It’s Willy’s badge that gets everyone’s attention. The sheriff’s badge. People run for the exit. Others yell, “Sheriff! Sing us ‘La Bamba’!” Okay, nobody ran. And not everybody recognized the blue eyes, the badge, the …

February 23, 2011
Prim and Proper

"Complexity is the end of fun,” says Rick. He’s philosophizing at the bar stool to my right, here in this little wine bar behind Rosie O’Grady’s pub. This is up in Normal Heights. Rick’s talking …

February 16, 2011
New York Bakery: Your Typical 1950s, Back-East, Back-Then Bakery

The cookie monster’s calling. You know me and my sweet tooth. Having apple-strudel dreams again. ’Specially now, as night comes on, and you feel like a little reward for having gotten through the day. Trouble …

February 9, 2011
Cafe Chloe Looks Vintage

He comes bounding across G Street against the light, stops, looks at me for a moment, then lopes on up Ninth Avenue. He’s a beautiful, big German shepherd, young, free, strutty, and out to cause …

January 26, 2011
We Love Jerry at Tin Fish Gaslamp

Late Sunday afternoon. Hungry for fish. Just got off the trolley at the Gaslamp, bottom of Fifth. I see I have a choice, har-de-har. Lou & Mickey’s, Nobu, Tin Fish. As they say, no contest. …

January 19, 2011
Turkado, I Say, at Board & Brew

Another rainy day: Del Mar is not its usual sunny self. I’ve been sheltering in their grand old library. Big ol’ house. What a gem. Now waiting just across Highway 101 — they call this …

January 12, 2011
What's Normal at Amarin Thai?

" Remember, green curry. Don’t come home without it!” Carla’s words ring in my ear. She’s been on a curry binge ever since I hit the Indian food truck six weeks ago. Says it helps …

January 5, 2011
El Tejate: How People Ate Before the Conquistadors

This little guy was singing a few days ago. Now, crunch. One ex-grasshopper. We’re talking chapulines. Fried and dropped on a big white plate. A delicacy from Oaxaca, southern Mexico. The taste? Salty, with a …

December 29, 2010
Soul Seasoning: I.B. Farmers' Market

Friday night. Just got paid. Riding my stretch limo (the 933 bus) around, circling the coast of I.B. I figure on maybe going up the pier to that seafood place the Tin Fish. But, then, …

December 22, 2010
Eddie's Has Philly Street Cred

Wowee. It feels like Back East, Back When. Like, before “calories” became a dirty word. I’m standing outside Lefty’s, the Chicago pizza outpost where Windy City refugees come in droves, desperate to escape anorexic-thin New …

December 15, 2010
Very French Café Madeleine in South Park

Sorry, Carla. I’m in love. With Madeleine. Whoever Madeleine is. It’s Thursday morning, South Park, the sun’s coming and going, but that’s okay. Here on the dogleg between Fern and 30th, life feels good. You …

December 8, 2010
Breakfast in Baghdad at Sagmani's Restaurant

"Yoo-hoo! Hello?” I’m back behind the gas station here, next to the tire shop…in Mr. Sagmani’s place. Yes, his eatery takes a bit of finding. But, for me, it came just in time. Was getting …

December 1, 2010
Poi and Poke It Ain't at L&L Hawaiian Barbecue

Look at the skyline: this could be the land of Ali Baba. Blue domes, red towers, gold domes. Right now, evening time, even the Food 4 Less looks muy romantica. Or, you could be thinking: …

November 17, 2010
San Diego Copper Chimney Food Truck

Aha... There he is. Allen and his ’88 Chevy lunch-truck, parked here on Carroll Centre Road. It’s Monday evening, about dusk. Takes a bit of street-scanning after the 210 bus leaves me. Then I see …

November 10, 2010
Kung Pow at Leon's Cuisine in Chula Vista

Anybody heard of Castle Park? I sure hadn’t. Everybody except Thomas Bros. calls this part of town southern Chula Vista. Whatever, Castle Park’s where I am, hoofing it up Third Avenue at around eight at …

November 3, 2010
Down the Rabbit Hole at Cafe Zucchero

A rabbit? In Little Italy? Can’t believe my eyes. But there he is, hopping up from the trolley tracks and into the bushes of one of those mega-condos near Date Street. This close to downtown? …

October 27, 2010
Easy to Love Mixon's Downtown

You can try to love this part of town, but it’s hard. I’m at First and Ash. Land of monthly-stay hotels and parking lots. Just a stone’s throw from City Hall and its concourse, the …

October 20, 2010
Hop Sausage at Hamilton's in South Park

"Are you seeing another woman?” It’s Carla, on the cell. “Sweetheart, corazón, what da heck makes you ask that? Seriously.” “You never come straight home these days. You’re always calling from a different place.” She’s …

October 13, 2010
The Sneak Joint Is Jammin' in Mission Beach

It seemed like a good idea...a great idea. What can beat sunset, PB, and happy hour at a place where you’re gonna see the green flashes? At a place that’s filled with experts? Because, well, …

September 29, 2010
25Forty Bistro and Bakery Is an Island of Modernity

Pissaladière? I know. Sounds dodgy. But trust me, this $3 “snack” is sensational. It’s like a pizza, with a filling that looks like tomato, tastes tomato-ish, but ain’t got a single tomato in it. Or …

September 22, 2010
Field Rations at Letty's Bean Shack

"See the field?” says this guy waiting for the Number 3 bus. “Your place is just past it. Looks like the Little House on the Prairie.” A field? In Hillcrest? Carla and I have been …

September 15, 2010
Pho Anh & Grill in Nestor's Southland Plaza

‘Do you have a, like, breakfast section?” I ask because I’m looking at the menu, and it’s either spring rolls, noodle soups, or rice dishes. I know, this is Vietnamese. But, at 10:00 on a …

September 8, 2010
North Park’s Veg-N-Out Serves Burgers without the Burger

Decision time: Eddie’s Philadelphia Steaks or Lefty’s Chicago Pizza? I’m near Upas, quarter of nine at night. Got half an hour before the next #2 bus. Oh, what the heck. I’m on Lefty’s side of …

September 1, 2010
Beer Medals

So this is it? The Holy Grail? Where the Beer Capital of the New World was born? I’m fresh off the number 44 bus, searching through a typical Kearny Mesa strip mall. Yogurt World, Tofu …

August 25, 2010
Sundown Surprise

Sunset’s my kryptonite. Honest. Dusk is my undoing. I’m weakest when Huey’s dipping his tootsies in the ocean. Food and drink-wise, anyway. Here at the Gaslamp trolley stop around six, I can feel the magic …

August 18, 2010
Famous Breakfast Man

Arnold Schwarzenegger sweated here. Stern’s Gym, North Park, “California’s oldest bodybuilding gym.” So did half a dozen Mr. Universe winners. So should I, except that right now I’m searching out the North Park Post Office. …

August 4, 2010
Cheese, Redux

Holy cow. This might be a first in San Diego. “Yours?” I ask the gal. Her name’s Verena. Verena Garnett. “It’s me and my sister’s,” she says. We’re looking at a little red three-wheeled auto-rickshaw, …

July 28, 2010
Two Jeffs

“I used to work here,” says Jeff. Funny, because we’re talking and chowing in Jeff’s Burgers. But, turns out, it was named after a different Jeff. We each take a chomp into our crunchy charbroiled …

July 21, 2010
Wolf'd

"B, u, bb, le. G–u–m spells bubble gum/It’s the only kind of chewing gum/The guy who made it must have really been a bum…” Beth, the gal behind the ice cream counter, will sing this …

July 14, 2010
Friend of Ours

“Poet, musician,” reads the little plaque. It’s about my good-time buddy Frankie — Cisco — and I couldn’t put it better myself. He died early last year. We all chipped in the $1400 — sisters, …

July 7, 2010

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