Photo by Dianne Torres

When a health emergency sidelined her father, recent grad Sofia Torres stepped in, and with help from her mother and sister, followed through on opening the family restaurant, Havana Kitchen, in downtown La Jolla. Photo by Dianne Torres.

Once, as I strolled Old Town Temecula, pleasing coffee aromas lured me to a storefront I hadn’t expected: that of a family-run Cuban restaurant. Should I go in? I was supposed to be in the area to research wineries and tourist activities, and Cuban food didn’t really fit the assignment. Besides, I’d already eaten lunch. On the other hand, Havana Kitchen makes a mean cubano sandwich. Who was I to resist?

Six years later, almost to the day, there’s a sense of déjà vu as I stroll into the new, downtown La Jolla location of Havana Kitchen, and once again order its Original Cubano: a fine example of the island nation’s signature pressed sandwich of roasted pork, ham, pickles, mustard, and melted Swiss cheese.

I couldn’t have known it at the time, but even then, restaurant operator James Torres had already made it his goal to open a location in San Diego. The second generation Cuban-American had established his business in Murrieta back in 2006 — as he explains on the restaurant web site — to preserve the “history and passion” of a culinary heritage that fused Spanish, African, and Chinese influences. He’d set up into the Old Town location by 2012, and settled his family in San Diego by 2014, driving back to Temecula to manage the cafe. Between commutes, Torres plotted a new outpost, finally building out a space on Torrey Pines Road in the heart of La Jolla that would open in September. Then, on the cusp of opening, he fell ill. Acute appendicitis, with complications leading to a multi-week hospital stay.

Now, here’s where we learn the true meaning of “family business.” When James went down, his wife and daughters stepped up: in particular, 23 year old Sofia and 19 year old Alianna, a current USD student. Having grown up around Havana Kitchen, they proved ready to take over the work that goes into a restaurant opening, phoning in photos and updates to their dad as he convalesced.

“I always knew I would be involved with my family restaurant,” acknowledges Sofia Torres, “But it was never my plan to be so involved after graduating from school.” Fresh from earning a degree in political science and philosophy from USD, her goal is to study integrative medicine in grad school next year. But she didn’t hesitate to taking on larger responsibilities in the enterprise she’s been a part of since age eleven — and which she credits as formative. “I’ve always loved being surrounded by my family and my culture,” she says, “and being a part of the family business since such a young age has really helped in molding me as an adult.”

A trio of empanadas from Havana Kitchen

Sofia and Alianna would seem to have done their father proud. The restaurant launched with minimal delays, bringing a bright and airy dining space and patio to the oft-visited neighborhood. It’s a casual eatery, just tasteful enough for La Jolla residents, just affordable enough for La Jolla visitors. But that doesn’t mean it’s all sandwiches and empanadas.

Though we do need to talk about the empanadas: the fried, savory hand pies go $4.25 apiece, or $11.75 for three. With luck, you’ll be hungry enough to add three to your meal, because otherwise you’ll face a difficult choice between the likes of roast pork and ham, cilantro chicken, or traditional picadillo beef. You could also make them a full meal by ordering the $15 empanada combo, served with black beans and rice, and fried plantains.

Ropa vieja. a dish of shredded beef, stewed in a Cuban sofrito of tomatoes, onions, bell peppers, and wine

But if you’re going to go entrée, might as well start with another signature item: the ropa vieja. This is one of those dishes where I can’t tell whether it’s beloved by everyone, or I just know about it because I spend half my time eating and the other half thinking about food. In case it’s the latter, let me tell you: this Caribbean staple far outperforms its name, which literally translates to “old clothes.” It’s shredded beef, cooked into a stew of garlic, tomatoes, bell peppers, onions, and wine. And there’s a reason it’s listed first among the house specialties; like that Cubano sandwich, I’d call it worthy of a second lunch.