A date and hazelnut shake

When I woke up, I didn’t know this would be the day I would try a date shake. Otherwise, I might have marked the occasion on my calendar. If not for the drink itself, then for the many opportunities it would provide for wordplay.

Instead, I’m caught by surprise when my wife asks me to take her out for one. “Hold on,” I reply, “You want me to take you on a shake date?”

“Yes. For a date shake.”

The basic idea here, is that dates, one of the oldest fruits cultivated by humankind, are sweet enough to make a healthy substitute to the processed sugars typically found in an ice cream milkshake. I’d never been an enthusiast, per se, but people *have* been enjoying dates for 6,000 years — and most of that time nobody even knew how rich they are in antioxidants! — so they must be good.

“Where would we even find such a thing?” I ask.

“I found a place in El Cajon,” the Mrs. tells me, “It specializes in dates and nuts.”

“What’s it called?” I wonder.

“Kako Dates & Nuts.”

A shop that sells dates and other dried fruit, plus nuts and Turkish delight

At least its brand messaging is clear. Or so I think. Because when we show up to the small storefront that’s home to Kako Dates & Nuts, we discover the little shop / drink counter also serves coffee, the Mexican sweet beverage known as chilango, boba tea, açaí bowls, dried fruits, and an entire glass case full of the starchy confections collectively known as Turkish delight.

The shopkeeper tells me the shop is connected to one of those date farms out in the Coachella Valley, and as I look around his wares, the first thing that strikes me is how many different types of dates there are, some of them organic. Most of us have encountered medjool dates — otherwise known as California dates. But here are bins packed with lesser-known varieties, such as halawy, barhi, khadrawy, zahidi, and rutab.

Several varieties of date for sale behind the Kako counter

Different types are more or less sweet, taste drier or sweeter, have thinner and/or smoother skins, and range in price from $4 to $6 a pound. I’m not equipped to get deep into differences, but a little internet research tells me that zahidi dates, for example, contain more sucrose vs. the higher levels of fructose in medjool dates. And rutab apparently refers to dates being picked earlier, when they’re semi-ripe and retain higher moisture. I pick up several varieties, but if I’m being honest, I can only tell them apart when I’m eating them side by side.

I have an easier time distinguishing between most of the nuts. Sold in bins, ranging from about $4 to $8 a pound, these include mostly familiar sorts, though it may take a few more visits before I can distinguish between the three different kinds of pistachios. A few of these turn up in my purchase of mixed nuts, which also include cashews, almonds, hazelnuts, Brazil nuts, pumpkin seeds, and more.

An assortment including mixed nuts, dried plums, and several types of dates, including medjool dates stuffed with nuts

Most surprising to me, though, may be the opportunity to buy dates stuffed with nuts. For $7.50 a pound, I pick up a variety: large medjools stuffed with pistachios, hazelnuts, pistachios, walnuts, or sesame seeds. It’s not quite like eating peanut M&Ms, but I can understand what inspires this, and it rapidly becomes my second favorite way to enjoy dates.

Number one, of course, would be the shakes ($7-8). These are simple affairs: the signature Kako shake appears simply to be dates blended with milk. However, most incorporate another ingredient. My wife gets hers with dried apricot, creating a fruitier experience. Mine features hazelnut, giving it a chocolate-like appeal. Other options include pomegranate, coconut, cardamom, and sesame seed.

I’ll probably schedule more date shake dates, if only so I can try more flavors. My brain loves the mineral and fiber content, my mouth loves the restrained sweetness. It’s like drinking a brown sugar smoothie, except it tastes both refreshing and healthy. I’m reminded, not for the first time, what benefits arise from having rich Middle Eastern traditions so close at hand, in El Cajon.