4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs

Eastern Dynasty duck answers the call

Convoy’s new Cantonese eatery fills hole left by an old one

Crispy, Cantonese-style roasted duck from Eastern Dynasty
Crispy, Cantonese-style roasted duck from Eastern Dynasty

The table next to us is large and round, with a lazy susan built into its center. As it rotates, we get a clear view of terrific-looking dishes we might have ordered instead: whole steamed fish, BBQ pork belly, fried squid appetizer. Okay, it’s not too late to add the squid ($7.99) to our order, specked with fried garlic. But we’re left to ponder the rest for another day.

Place

Eastern Dynasty

4690 Convoy St #109, San Diego

Not that we’re disappointed with our entrees in the slightest. In particular, I keep going back to the Cantonese-style roast duck. The half-duck has been chopped into finger-food size pieces, its skin glistening and crispy, and redolent of a five-spice blend.

Spotted on another table, the fried squid appetizer did not disappoint.

This new Convoy Street restaurant, Eastern Dynasty, will turn your head that way. It has the sort of menu long enough you almost need a bookmark. It’s loaded with goodies, both owing to the Cantonese cooking traditions the restaurant claims, and other Chinese influences. You could order the lobster and still regret not trying the abalone or the pepper steak.

A newly opened Cantonese restaurant within the same shopping center as temporarily closed China Max

A couple of years ago, we might have been dining at China Max, just a few feet across the parking lot, instead. But that Kearny mainstay is still being rebuilt following a spring 2020 fire, which left a void someplace like Eastern Dynasty could come along to fill. And judging by the packed dining room and short wait, the restaurant has done a fine job capitalizing on the opportunity.

A restaurant keeping busy for lunch on a weekday

Southeastern Cantonese is said to rely less heavily on spice than other regional cuisines, but that doesn’t stop Eastern Dynasty from delivering on flavor. If anything can tear me away from the duck, it’s the clay pot casserole of eggplant, diced chicken, and salted fish ($14.95). I first acquired a taste for salted fish at China Max, and it’s just as pungent and surprising here, adding excitement to the depth delivered by perfectly tender, braised eggplant.

A clay pot casserole featuring eggplant, minced chicken, and the occasional pungent bite of salted fish

It may not be the first option to jump out at you, behind the likes of char siu pork, chow fun, every iteration of fried shrimp, and a second, Peking-style roast duck. But if an item this deep into the menu can impress, you have to figure Eastern Dynasty makes a strong addition, even in this part of town already well-crowded with Chinese restaurants. I will be interesting to see which restaurant in-the-know customers will turn to when China Max makes its return.

Here's something you might be interested in.
Submit a free classified
or view all

Previous article

The dine-in ghost kitchens of Barrio Food Hub

Dozens of virtual brands operate in a single building, and it has a parklet
Next Article

Villa Montezuma re-opens one more time

Queen Anne home invites spookiness – including Edgar Allan Poe
Crispy, Cantonese-style roasted duck from Eastern Dynasty
Crispy, Cantonese-style roasted duck from Eastern Dynasty

The table next to us is large and round, with a lazy susan built into its center. As it rotates, we get a clear view of terrific-looking dishes we might have ordered instead: whole steamed fish, BBQ pork belly, fried squid appetizer. Okay, it’s not too late to add the squid ($7.99) to our order, specked with fried garlic. But we’re left to ponder the rest for another day.

Place

Eastern Dynasty

4690 Convoy St #109, San Diego

Not that we’re disappointed with our entrees in the slightest. In particular, I keep going back to the Cantonese-style roast duck. The half-duck has been chopped into finger-food size pieces, its skin glistening and crispy, and redolent of a five-spice blend.

Spotted on another table, the fried squid appetizer did not disappoint.

This new Convoy Street restaurant, Eastern Dynasty, will turn your head that way. It has the sort of menu long enough you almost need a bookmark. It’s loaded with goodies, both owing to the Cantonese cooking traditions the restaurant claims, and other Chinese influences. You could order the lobster and still regret not trying the abalone or the pepper steak.

A newly opened Cantonese restaurant within the same shopping center as temporarily closed China Max

A couple of years ago, we might have been dining at China Max, just a few feet across the parking lot, instead. But that Kearny mainstay is still being rebuilt following a spring 2020 fire, which left a void someplace like Eastern Dynasty could come along to fill. And judging by the packed dining room and short wait, the restaurant has done a fine job capitalizing on the opportunity.

A restaurant keeping busy for lunch on a weekday

Southeastern Cantonese is said to rely less heavily on spice than other regional cuisines, but that doesn’t stop Eastern Dynasty from delivering on flavor. If anything can tear me away from the duck, it’s the clay pot casserole of eggplant, diced chicken, and salted fish ($14.95). I first acquired a taste for salted fish at China Max, and it’s just as pungent and surprising here, adding excitement to the depth delivered by perfectly tender, braised eggplant.

A clay pot casserole featuring eggplant, minced chicken, and the occasional pungent bite of salted fish

It may not be the first option to jump out at you, behind the likes of char siu pork, chow fun, every iteration of fried shrimp, and a second, Peking-style roast duck. But if an item this deep into the menu can impress, you have to figure Eastern Dynasty makes a strong addition, even in this part of town already well-crowded with Chinese restaurants. I will be interesting to see which restaurant in-the-know customers will turn to when China Max makes its return.

Sponsored
Here's something you might be interested in.
Submit a free classified
or view all
Previous article

Property astir on El Cajon Blvd.

Lafayette Hotel, Red Fox Room, Mississippi Apartments
Next Article

San Diego Asian Film Festival 2021 sampler

Reviews of Beyond the Infinite Two Minutes, Inside the Red Brick Wall, and Islands
Comments
0

Be the first to leave a comment.

Sign in to comment

Sign in

Ask a Hipster — Advice you didn't know you needed Big Screen — Movie commentary Blurt — Music's inside track Booze News — San Diego spirits Classical Music — Immortal beauty Classifieds — Free and easy Cover Stories — Front-page features Drinks All Around — Bartenders' drink recipes Excerpts — Literary and spiritual excerpts Feast! — Food & drink reviews Feature Stories — Local news & stories From the Archives — Spotlight on the past Golden Dreams — Talk of the town Letters — Our inbox [email protected] — Local movie buffs share favorites Movie Reviews — Our critics' picks and pans Musician Interviews — Up close with local artists Neighborhood News from Stringers — Hyperlocal news News Ticker — News & politics Obermeyer — San Diego politics illustrated Outdoors — Weekly changes in flora and fauna Overheard in San Diego — Eavesdropping illustrated Poetry — The old and the new Reader Travel — Travel section built by travelers Reading — The hunt for intellectuals Roam-O-Rama — SoCal's best hiking/biking trails San Diego Beer — Inside San Diego suds SD on the QT — Almost factual news Sheep and Goats — Places of worship Special Issues — The best of Street Style — San Diego streets have style Surf Diego — Real stories from those braving the waves Tin Fork — Silver spoon alternative Under the Radar — Matt Potter's undercover work Unforgettable — Long-ago San Diego Unreal Estate — San Diego's priciest pads Your Week — Daily event picks
4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs
Close