Sunny B biscuit sandwich, with sausage
If there were an alternate timeline, in which a pandemic never showed up to close local restaurants, I’d have been happily feasting on biscuit breakfast sandwiches all through the spring and summer.
3749 Park Blvd, San Diego
Alas, it took me months to overcome the distractions of our current surreality to finally make it over to Sunnyboy Biscuit Company. The small business got going in January, filling in the triangular fifth corner where Robinson and Park meet, in Hillcrest.
The latest restaurant at Hillcrest's triangle intersection
You could be forgiven for thinking there’s not much to a biscuit. But if you really give it some thought, biscuits are more often bad than good. Most are too dense, or not dense enough, or rock hard, or fall apart when you butter them.
Sunnyboy’s biscuit land in the proverbial sweet spot, good enough to order straight up at $3.50 apiece, to be eaten with whipped butter and a berry compote (which is like jam, but fresher and fruitier).
Fried chicken and biscuit sandwich, with deviled eggs
However, Sunnyboy finds myriad ways to tempt us to his biscuit counter, and to the outdoor seating more recently installed outside the restaurant. Sandwiches of rosemary fried chicken — breaded light, flaky — are dressed with maple syrup ($12), topped with horseradish slaw ($14, with a side of deviled eggs), or paired with bacon and smothered in sausage gravy ($16). Beef fans may go country-fried steak or smoked brisket, and hipsters may toast up their biscuit with smashed avocado.
A Sunnyboy biscuit, dressed with whipped honey butter and berry compote
Variations of these ingredients appear in weekend specials, including a country-fried steak “country benedict,” or brisket hashed with onions and peppers.
Personally, I could not be more pleased with the sausage and egg breakfast sandwich, topped by melted cheddar and just a taste of that rich country gravy. It scratches my every breakfast sandwich itch, so good I can’t even trip over its 12-dollar price tag (bacon and veggie patty options are available).
"Biscuits brulee": biscuits turned into a sweet treat
But to see how far a sausage can go, head for the dessert-friendly biscuits brulee ($13.50_: a pair of biscuits dipped in vanilla bean custard, baked crispy, and smothered in strawberries and maple whipped cream. You need a sweet tooth to appreciate this one, and if it hadn’t been for this dag blasted coronavirus, you’d probably already know that.