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A new place for selectively health-conscious OB

Healthy food and beachin’ drinks

The Oyster Po’ Boy…the sandwich just wasn’t unified.
The Oyster Po’ Boy…the sandwich just wasn’t unified.

Although the food scenes of Little Italy, North Park, and Convoy get more attention, Ocean Beach has also been experiencing a bit of a restaurant renaissance in recent years. A lot of decent eateries have opened recently but haven’t received the big publicity boom that usually accompanies a new restaurant in Little Italy or the Gaslamp.

Voltaire Beach House is very open air

Instead, places such as Voltaire Beach House are working for the local dollars and visitors going to the beach, a pot dispensary, or a head shop.

The Lavender Collins, keeping it simple

Voltaire Beach House opened in January, but this open-air eatery seems best suited for hot weather. That’s good, because they have cocktails perfect for a blistering summer day. I’ll get to the food in a second, but usually when I eat, I start with a drink.

The House Salad will make you feel better

The Dawn Patrol ($11) is Voltaire Beach House’s take on a Paloma, a tequila cocktail that is more popular in Mexico than the margarita. Usually just grapefruit juice and tequila, VBH’s version adds pomegranate hibiscus agave for both sweetness and tang, as well as muddled jalapeño. The end result is sweet, spicy, and sour. It’s a good beginning to a dinner.

The Lavender Collins ($11) is simple: gin, lavender, lemon, and soda. The bitterness from the gin combines with the sourness of the lemon and makes a good palate cleanser.

Now, to the food. Voltaire Beach House does appetizers well. The Ahi Poke ($13) is what you’d want a poke bowl to be: ample amounts of fresh tuna along with seaweed, tomato, and avocado and a tangy ginger-soy marinade that enhances but does not overpower the dish. It comes with wonton crackers, but those break easily. I just attacked the dish with a fork.

Place

Voltaire Beach House

4934 Voltaire Street, San Diego

The House Salad ($11) is the type of meal that should go well in selectively health-conscious OB (home of vegans who smoke). It’s greens and quinoa along with cucumber, bleu cheese, cherry tomato, and corn in a white balsamic vinaigrette. It’s one of those dishes that makes you feel healthy no matter what else you do that day. The dressing enhanced the slight bitterness of the greens and the tanginess of the cheese.

I wasn’t as happy with the Oyster Po’ Boy ($14), which I had with fried oysters. The soft bread, lettuce, tomato, and remoulade didn’t come together as a whole. I realize a soft loaf is more authentic, but I thought the loaf I had was a little doughy. I would have preferred something more crisp and less spongy. The oysters were fried perfectly and had a nice brininess that went with the remoulade…the sandwich just wasn’t unified.

But overall, the house salad, poke, and those drinks are enough to make me return this summer.

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The Oyster Po’ Boy…the sandwich just wasn’t unified.
The Oyster Po’ Boy…the sandwich just wasn’t unified.

Although the food scenes of Little Italy, North Park, and Convoy get more attention, Ocean Beach has also been experiencing a bit of a restaurant renaissance in recent years. A lot of decent eateries have opened recently but haven’t received the big publicity boom that usually accompanies a new restaurant in Little Italy or the Gaslamp.

Voltaire Beach House is very open air

Instead, places such as Voltaire Beach House are working for the local dollars and visitors going to the beach, a pot dispensary, or a head shop.

The Lavender Collins, keeping it simple

Voltaire Beach House opened in January, but this open-air eatery seems best suited for hot weather. That’s good, because they have cocktails perfect for a blistering summer day. I’ll get to the food in a second, but usually when I eat, I start with a drink.

The House Salad will make you feel better

The Dawn Patrol ($11) is Voltaire Beach House’s take on a Paloma, a tequila cocktail that is more popular in Mexico than the margarita. Usually just grapefruit juice and tequila, VBH’s version adds pomegranate hibiscus agave for both sweetness and tang, as well as muddled jalapeño. The end result is sweet, spicy, and sour. It’s a good beginning to a dinner.

The Lavender Collins ($11) is simple: gin, lavender, lemon, and soda. The bitterness from the gin combines with the sourness of the lemon and makes a good palate cleanser.

Now, to the food. Voltaire Beach House does appetizers well. The Ahi Poke ($13) is what you’d want a poke bowl to be: ample amounts of fresh tuna along with seaweed, tomato, and avocado and a tangy ginger-soy marinade that enhances but does not overpower the dish. It comes with wonton crackers, but those break easily. I just attacked the dish with a fork.

Place

Voltaire Beach House

4934 Voltaire Street, San Diego

The House Salad ($11) is the type of meal that should go well in selectively health-conscious OB (home of vegans who smoke). It’s greens and quinoa along with cucumber, bleu cheese, cherry tomato, and corn in a white balsamic vinaigrette. It’s one of those dishes that makes you feel healthy no matter what else you do that day. The dressing enhanced the slight bitterness of the greens and the tanginess of the cheese.

I wasn’t as happy with the Oyster Po’ Boy ($14), which I had with fried oysters. The soft bread, lettuce, tomato, and remoulade didn’t come together as a whole. I realize a soft loaf is more authentic, but I thought the loaf I had was a little doughy. I would have preferred something more crisp and less spongy. The oysters were fried perfectly and had a nice brininess that went with the remoulade…the sandwich just wasn’t unified.

But overall, the house salad, poke, and those drinks are enough to make me return this summer.

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4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs
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