A simple meal of lamb, done two ways

Bracero Cocina debuted as one of the hottest restaurant tickets in town this year, thanks to a healthy amount of buzz in culinary circles surrounding chef Javier Plascencia’s Baja Med cuisine. Infusing Mexican dishes with Mediterranean and other global influences, the restaurant’s menu is exciting and delicious, though not cheap.

Aquí es Texcoco, on the other hand, is not so expensive. The casual Chula Vista spot originated in Tijuana, and its version of Baja Med centers around slow-cooked barbacoa lamb. A taco goes for $2.50 vs. $5 for the barbacoa lamb taco at Bracero. While a Bracero taco is easily worth five bucks, at twice the price it’s relatively extravagant.

Aquí es Texcoco

So I went to Texcoco with lamb on my mind. I ordered a lamb-rib soft taco and a grilled version with cabeza, aka lamb head, aka mostly cheek. There’s not much to these tacos, just meat and tortilla plus ramekins of diced onions and cilantro available alongside bottled salsa as part of table service.

While the cabeza was more tender, contrasting nicely with the grilled tortilla’s texture, I found the ribs more to my liking. They were also tender but a touch less salty and had a more distinct barbacoa smokiness. For a combined five bucks, these tacos were almost enough to make a satisfying lunch.

But bigger appetites want more, and I wanted a better taste of the Med side of this equation. For that I nabbed a lamb pita sandwich topped by lettuce, tomato, and dill tzatziki served with a pleasant cup of lamb broth with chickpeas and rice.

It cost $7.50 and was a little bigger than the tacos, but it wasn’t as good a bang for your buck. Though not as special as the rib meat, the lamb filling the pita was savory and delicious. After the tortillas, the pita felt a little thick, and I could have done without so much dill. But there was that bottle of salsa, which served the sandwich well.

The marriage of Mex and Med may not be so pronounced here as at Bracero, and the beverage selection is less interesting (outside of pulque). But as a person who is enthusiastic about both grilled lamb and tacos, I get downright excited pulling into Texcoco’s strip mall parking lot and can leave happy for 15 bucks.

And so far as the beverages go, on my waiter’s recommendation I tried the house-made tamarind water. The salty sweet drink was slightly tart and very refreshing. Gatorade is out. Next time I’m hung over, I’m driving to Chula Vista and drinking this to recover. And eating some lamb.