Late the other afternoon, I was walking my dog down what should have been a deserted street when I saw a pickup truck filled with teen-agers advancing. The road was officially closed because of damage from the recent storms, but there they were, going at high speed. I wedged my body as close as I could to some bushes, pulling my dog out of the way. As the pickup came parallel to me, one of the youths heaved an entire bucket of water on me. I stood there outraged, sputtering, covered with water, In a rage, I screamed an obscenity at them — if I had my wits and could see, which I couldn't, I would have taken down their license plate. My hair was drenched, my clothes soaked, and I removed my sunglasses cautiously to try to determine what they had thrown at me. As I stood there trying to pull myself together, I could hear their laughter receding down the road. What a joke it was to them! But from such alleged jokes may grow disasters. Existentialist writers called it "the gratuitous act." Someone walks down a quiet road, a car barrels by. Lucky for me what was heaved was only dirty water. It could have been much worse.

Yet I must confess I was shaken. It's no longer a question of "Why did they do it?" but why assault without provocation has become a pan of our existence. even on a road barred to traffic, even toward a woman walking a crippled dog.

After I returned home and showered and set my clothes aside for the cleaner, my mood shifted abruptly. What I needed most was calm surroundings, very good food, solicitous people, marvelous dessert." With a friend, I embarked upon a trip to Frederick's in Solana Beach.

At present, Frederick's is the purveyor of some of the most satisfying meals prepared in San Diego as well as North County. Dinners are fixed price, $20. This includes soup, salad, entree, several vegetables, dessert, and coffee. Frederick's has expanded from its original room to three separate dining areas, and Chuck Frederick, the owner, is no longer doing most of the cooking. A young chef, Doug Organ, does the entrees, and one of the great wonders, Osa Sommermeyer, prepares the desserts. Between then, and with the help of Frederick, who cooks the soups, dinners are beautifully orchestrated.

I usually can't eat both soup and salad, but I always at least taste my soup, which at Frederick's varies nightly. The soups are served in deep brown crocks accompanied by French bread that is baked daily. If you fill up on the first course, you'll be in trouble. There's a choice of two salads: fresh mushroom or tossed green, and we had one of each. The dressing on the mushrooms is a bit cloying — too much like mayonnaise — but that's a minor flaw. The tossed green salad is well done and I would choose that the next time.

The entrees are the glory of the house. Only three are prepared nightly. Since you must have a reservation, try to discover the entrees of the evening before you decide on what night to dine. If at all possible, ask when Doug is doing pasta, or order it in advance. The veal prepared with mushrooms is also highly recommended. My friend had beautifully prepared scallops, and the vegetables, purchased at Chino's in Rancho Santa Fe, are fresh daily. Among other vegetables we had one-half of an exquisite beet, served with some of its green stem. I actually asked for another beet, a request that's rarely made for vegetables.

The desserts, prepared by Osa Sommermeyer, are in a class by themselves. If Frederick's served desserts a la carte, you wouldn't be able to get inside. The chocolate gateau is remarkable, the original of which is to be found in La Franciase restaurant in Wheeler, Illinois. Served with a creme anglais, its is a marvel. Alas, Osa will not give the recipe.

Because of my unpleasant experience of literally being dumped on, I was in a carpe diem mood. So I had the apple tart and a piece of bundt cake, but neither could compare to the chocolate gateau.

There are no leftover products at Frederick's. Meals are prepared for that night, seating is arranged every 15 minutes so that the kitchen won't be overwhelmed with too many people arriving at the same time, and the entire experience is delightful: splendid entrees, attentive details, exquisite vegetables, seductive desserts. The $20 tab is not excessive for all of this, including tea or coffee. Frederick's has its steady clientele, but for those of you who haven't tried it, you're in for a treat.