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One of the best dinners I ever cooked was a whole, barbecued suckling pig (in a rum-soaked Polynesian marinade). Oooh, the crisp skin, the tender flesh! I can still taste it 15 years later. Now chef Trey Foshee at George's Modern (at George's at the Cove) is offering roasted piglets for groups. To quote the publicist::

..."With four days advance notice, Trey’s special whole suckling pig dinners are available for groups of eight to 10 people in California Modern or the Modern Bar (located on George’s lowest level). A suckling pig (a young piglet that has not yet been weaned from its mother) is really tender and succulent, and the skin gets very crisp. Trey serves the roast pig – presented table-side, then carved in the kitchen – with a variety of seasonal side dishes and sauces (such as carrots, spinach, smoked mashed potatoes, apricot-chipotle puree and fennel mustard), along with a salad (like Trey’s date salad) to start the meal. The dinner is priced at $600."

Well, it's a rather plutocratic pleasure in these hard times, sort of embarrassing to mention -- but it is indeed a potentially fabulous pleasure for some special occasion (like my birthday?) . I always mentally compare pricey restaurant meals to the cost of a cashmere sweater bought on-sale at the end of winter -- which would give more delight? In this case, if you can get together a group of ten, I'd say the porker gets it. Moths and wear may eventually ruin that same-priced ($60) sweater, but the memory of that pig -- no, no, they can't take that away from me.

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