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Dan continued: I too headed towards the on coming freight trains as paddling back towards shore would mean certain severe crushing punishment. The first wave of the set came. I just got over the top, and then the second moments later, again barely making it over the crest. Breathing heavily, I continued to race to make it beyond danger, knowing in this state I could not hold my breath for long. Then the 3rd wave in this relenting series of terror, a monster, peaking considerably farther out than the 1st two. I looked for Aaron, but in this situation, it's understood every man for himself. The wave began to feather, I scrambled and scratched to get over the top pulling in deepest breaths possible. For a moment, I thought I was over, and then one of the worst feelings for a surfer, slowly getting sucked of the top of the wave, known as the "falls". The first moments of weightlessness are virtually euphoric. Then the slam down to the depths inside a tornado of water not knowing up from down and limbs and body flailing furiously. It felt as if I was goldfish being flushed to oblivion. I'd been here before and knew the key to survival, expend no energy, conserve, and when the painful pangs to get oxygen hit, gulping the air in your mouth is all you got. I used all my inner strength to maintain consciousness, but couldn't help quick visions of my family at my burial. Then as quickly as it hit, I felt the wave releasing it's grasp. I got to the surface only to suck in from the 1 foot layer of foam. Choking, I braced for the next round, not as bad since the 1st wave pulled me quarter way to shore. And the pounding continued, until finally the tips of my toes grazed the ocean floor. Thank god and the will to survive I'm here today.
— November 26, 2009 11:10 a.m.

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