Operating in the locale that formerly hosted Islander, Rhinoceros, and West Pac Noodle Bar, this joint is French, so, you gotta have snails. Yes, there’ll be a lot of clacking of those shell-grabbers, but the sauce they’re in makes it worth it. Also, while we’re thinking French, the steak tartare - raw - has surprisingly pleasant flavors helped along by capers, cornichon (tart French pickles), and a quail egg yolk. Or know what you’re getting with good ol’ cassoulet or moules marinières. And if in doubt, their French onion soup is excellent and filling. Inside or outside? Patio is ideal for lengthy dinners on warm evenings, discussing - why not? - whether it’s Marseilles or Marseille, Paris or Paree.