Mr. A's. Forget the 1940s. No period understood the noir sensibility better than the years of Jack Paar, Jack Vdenti, Joe Pyne, Joe Valachi, Faith Domergue, Ann Blyth.

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On the noir side of town: Chee-Chee Club, county courthouse, Little Vietnam, Pt. Loma Bayside Trail

San Diego, my lovely

Stretching east of 30th Street, the Mid-City mesa has for decades been a Gasoline Alley wasteland of car washes, card parlors, dinky pink bungalows: low-rent neighborhoods whose obscurity is secured by distance from freeway off-ramps.


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