The Loco Lopez 'queso burro': a breakfast burrito enveloped in griddled cheese
As breakfast burritos go, it was already going to hit every greasy morning mark: bacon, eggs, fried potatoes, and melted cheese, with a splash of avocado green. But rather than the usual flat, off-white wrapper, the signature queso burro from Loco Lopez glistened with a golden crust, courtesy of griddled cheddar cheese encasing the entire tortilla.
1424 Sunset Cliffs Boulevard, San Diego
The pop-up brunch spot opens Friday through Sunday inside of Ocean Beach Indian restaurant Sundara. The dinner venue is no stranger to sharing its kitchen in the morning, having hosted breakfast pop up Jake & Eggs a few years back. When a Sundara alum, local chef Richard Lopez, was furloughed from his regular gig due to the ‘rona pandemic, he was invited to come in and start up his own take-out operation.
Ocean Beach dinner restaurant, Sundara, has a history hosting brunch pop ups.
Lopez responded with Loco Lopez, and it doesn’t take a detailed study of the menu to see where the “loco” comes into play. Inspired by the style of griddled cheese tacos popularized locally by the likes of Puesto and Famoso Mexican Street Food, the $10 breakfast burrito wrapped in cheese melted right on the flat top is only one of the over-the-top breakfast items to be found.
A grilled cheese and bacon, made with donut halves instead of bread
Hard to miss is the donut grilled cheese, which sees a glazed donut sliced into two sandwich slices, between which three kinds of cheese are grilled along with bacon and serrano chili jam. The whole decadent thing is finished with powdered sugar for $10.
So is the “El Chingon breakfast sando,” a $12 breakfast sandwich made with a croissant given the French toast treatment, and stuffed with fried egg, bacon, two sausage patties, and more melted cheese. Let’s just say this literally heavy breakfast sandwich is not for the meek.
El chingon breakfast sandwich, made with a French toast croissant
While such uber-indulgent items certainly stand out, those looking for relatively toned-down fare can look to the avocado toast ($8), or a pair of breakfast tacos ($10). For those who prefer lunch, $12 gets you a pair of bacon-wrapped TJ hot dogs, or a plancha (a.k.a. flat top) burger served on a potato bun with goopy American cheese.
Pre-paid online ordering makes this an easy take-out option for Obecians, or anyone within a short drive. Lopez has a table set up at the Sundara entrance, so I just pulled up, hopped out, grabbed my orders, and made it home while they were still hot. Of course, after eating some of these hefty breakfast items, I didn’t much feel like going anywhere for a while.