Anchor ads are not supported on this page.

4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs

OB’s Walking On Water Cafe: Sinkers and seagulls

“Jumpers Only Beyond This Point.”

Moment of truth: Junior lifeguard candidates, about to jump.
Moment of truth: Junior lifeguard candidates, about to jump.
Place

Wow Café

5091 Niagara Avenue, on the pier, San Diego

Fresh air! That’s the answer to catching coronavirus (if you believe those 240 scientists who claimed it can be transmitted through the air). And there’s no fresher air than here, half a mile out on the longest concrete pier in the world.

It’s a beautiful, sunny, windy afternoon on the Ocean Beach Pier. Armadas of pelicans fly slo-mo, arrow formation, overhead. Gulls line the railings. People flick lines out to catch dinner.

Except this afternoon, there’s a notice.

“Jumpers Only Beyond This Point.”

Olivia with my burger.

Say what? But they mean it. Dozens of kids in red and lime-green swimming gear are lining up to jump off the pier, four at a time, and then swim out to some kind of pontoon below. Tons of screams, yells, stern adult loudspeaker voices. “OK. One, two, three, four!”

Turns out to be a junior lifeguards training program.

But what I’m interested in juts out just beyond, a little old cantilevered cafe with a crazy-beautiful name, “Walking On Water Cafe,” aka WOW Cafe.

Sponsored
Sponsored

Oh yeah. Been here. The owner is a strong Christian. Also, generous with her lobster tacos. I tried one. Man! I still remember it. Ton of lobster flesh, shredded cabbage, pico de gallo, cheese, white sauce. Eight bucks, and from memory worth every cent. But there were other things I swore I’d come back for. Like their clam chowder in a bread bowl ($10), their fish and chips ($13), and maybe the best deal, their Ocean Beach Pier Sinkers, breaded and deep fried cream cheese-stuffed and jalapeños, $5 for four. Oh, and their fish and chips — most popular dish on the menu, the lady said, second only to their lobster taco. Cost $13.

Underneath the mustard, a half-pound burger patty.

But now I’m seeing this gal hauling out a burger that looks deliciously burn-grilled, hand-molded, big.

This is Olivia. Political science and economics major working as a server here during her covid vacation. Says I can sit anywhere outside. Oh yes. They do have a nautical-looking dining room reaching over the water, but Newsolini’s orders: no eating inside for three weeks.

Not a problem! The railing along one side’s set up with stools for eating, and they have a bunch of tables on the other. And in this breeze, they’ve locked umbrellas to the railing so they don’t fly away.

As I sit down, I notice a bunch of seagulls on the roof, tracking my every move. Hmm. Better watch those guys. And that reminds me! Last time, when I was here on a stormy lunchtime, with waves cresting along right outside the window, there was Igor the Pelican. Igor had visiting rights into the restaurant and would grab your arm with with his beak if you didn’t come up with at least a couple of French fries.

No sign of him now, though, so I try to pay attention to the blowaway menu Olivia left with me. First up, I see there’s only one burger. Costs $10. But it’s a half-pounder, and comes with the place’s own hand-cut fries.

But tons of other choices, including a lobster Caesar salad for $14. Or $9 for the salad and $5 for the lobster add. Or the “ultimate nacho supreme,” promising a ton of chips with nacho cheese, shredded beef, sour cream, and the usual fixings for $13. Olivia says it’s big enough to split between four as an appetizer.

The crew, poised for raid.

And hey hey! Breakfast is all day. Lobster omelet (3-egg) runs $14, with potatoes and toast. And the basic “Pier Combo” of two eggs, potatoes, and toast goes for $8. Best deal? Probably two pancakes for $4. But my eye also flicks to the Fisherman’s Special. Has two eggs, potatoes, three buttermilk pancakes plus bacon or sausage, for $12.

First up, I invest $5 in four “OB Pier Sinkers.” And then I order the burger, and add cheese for $1 more.

The jalapeño-cream cheese sinkers are fun. Plenty of heat in there, gentled down by the deep-tasting shell of breadcrumbs.

But then, oh wow. This ragged half-pound of beef between two buns. You can see it has been ground right here and then molded by hand. Tomatoes, pickles, onion, swishes of mustard, ketchup and mayo color it up. I take one big bite, and the combo, but specially the burnt edges of the patty, make this a scrunchy winner. Only thing I want is a touch of salt and pepper. I get up and head for the door where Olivia’s standing.

Thief!

She’s looking at me, horrified.

“I just wanted some salt,” I say. But she’s pointing towards my meal. I turn around. OMG. Three of the roof seagulls are on my plate, grabbing bun, meat patty, bun. In and out in seconds. Two other gulls come in for the fries. Now they land 20 feet along the railing, and start enjoying their lunch. I turn and lunge towards them. The one with the top bun is nearest. He does five gulps while he batters off a young gull with his wing. The bun’s as wide as him, but he squishes that whole thing in. I can see it outlined as it floats down inside his neck.

“Do we call the police?” I say.

“I’ll get you another one,” Olivia says. “They’re just used to people giving them food. Uh, are you new here?”

Whatever, she’s good to her word, and I enjoy finally chowing down, slowly, while the gulls watch from the roof, waiting for me to blink. Hey, this is the wild world out out here on the sea.

  • The Place: Walking On Water Cafe, (Ocean Beach Pier Cafe), 5091 Niagara Avenue, Ocean Beach, 619-226-8653
  • Hours: 8am-8pm, daily (till 10pm, Saturday, Sunday)
  • Prices: Lobster (3-egg) breakfast omelet, potatoes, toast, $14; pier combo (2 eggs, potatoes, toast $8; two pancakes, $4; fisherman’s special (two eggs, potatoes, 3 buttermilk pancakes, bacon or sausage, $12; lobster taco, $8; clam chowder in a bread bowl, $10; fish and chips, $13; Sinkers (cream cheese, jalapeño, deep-fried bread crumbs), $5; fish and chips, $13; 1/2-lb burger, fries, $10; Caesar salad, $9; add lobster, $5; ultimate nacho supreme, (cheese, shredded beef, sour cream) $13
  • Buses: 35, 923
  • Nearest bus stops: Cable and Newport (35); Cable and Narragansett (923)

The latest copy of the Reader

Please enjoy this clickable Reader flipbook. Linked text and ads are flash-highlighted in blue for your convenience. To enhance your viewing, please open full screen mode by clicking the icon on the far right of the black flipbook toolbar.

Here's something you might be interested in.
Submit a free classified
or view all
Previous article

Clikatat Ikatowi returns to the Casbah for October 8 show

Venue saw the band’s last performance over a quarter century ago
Next Article

Experience Hendrix, Falling Doves, Peter Sprague, Sandi King, Clikatat Ikatowi

Tributes, listening parties, and screenings in Kensington, Carlsbad, La Mesa, Little Italy, and downtown
Moment of truth: Junior lifeguard candidates, about to jump.
Moment of truth: Junior lifeguard candidates, about to jump.
Place

Wow Café

5091 Niagara Avenue, on the pier, San Diego

Fresh air! That’s the answer to catching coronavirus (if you believe those 240 scientists who claimed it can be transmitted through the air). And there’s no fresher air than here, half a mile out on the longest concrete pier in the world.

It’s a beautiful, sunny, windy afternoon on the Ocean Beach Pier. Armadas of pelicans fly slo-mo, arrow formation, overhead. Gulls line the railings. People flick lines out to catch dinner.

Except this afternoon, there’s a notice.

“Jumpers Only Beyond This Point.”

Olivia with my burger.

Say what? But they mean it. Dozens of kids in red and lime-green swimming gear are lining up to jump off the pier, four at a time, and then swim out to some kind of pontoon below. Tons of screams, yells, stern adult loudspeaker voices. “OK. One, two, three, four!”

Turns out to be a junior lifeguards training program.

But what I’m interested in juts out just beyond, a little old cantilevered cafe with a crazy-beautiful name, “Walking On Water Cafe,” aka WOW Cafe.

Sponsored
Sponsored

Oh yeah. Been here. The owner is a strong Christian. Also, generous with her lobster tacos. I tried one. Man! I still remember it. Ton of lobster flesh, shredded cabbage, pico de gallo, cheese, white sauce. Eight bucks, and from memory worth every cent. But there were other things I swore I’d come back for. Like their clam chowder in a bread bowl ($10), their fish and chips ($13), and maybe the best deal, their Ocean Beach Pier Sinkers, breaded and deep fried cream cheese-stuffed and jalapeños, $5 for four. Oh, and their fish and chips — most popular dish on the menu, the lady said, second only to their lobster taco. Cost $13.

Underneath the mustard, a half-pound burger patty.

But now I’m seeing this gal hauling out a burger that looks deliciously burn-grilled, hand-molded, big.

This is Olivia. Political science and economics major working as a server here during her covid vacation. Says I can sit anywhere outside. Oh yes. They do have a nautical-looking dining room reaching over the water, but Newsolini’s orders: no eating inside for three weeks.

Not a problem! The railing along one side’s set up with stools for eating, and they have a bunch of tables on the other. And in this breeze, they’ve locked umbrellas to the railing so they don’t fly away.

As I sit down, I notice a bunch of seagulls on the roof, tracking my every move. Hmm. Better watch those guys. And that reminds me! Last time, when I was here on a stormy lunchtime, with waves cresting along right outside the window, there was Igor the Pelican. Igor had visiting rights into the restaurant and would grab your arm with with his beak if you didn’t come up with at least a couple of French fries.

No sign of him now, though, so I try to pay attention to the blowaway menu Olivia left with me. First up, I see there’s only one burger. Costs $10. But it’s a half-pounder, and comes with the place’s own hand-cut fries.

But tons of other choices, including a lobster Caesar salad for $14. Or $9 for the salad and $5 for the lobster add. Or the “ultimate nacho supreme,” promising a ton of chips with nacho cheese, shredded beef, sour cream, and the usual fixings for $13. Olivia says it’s big enough to split between four as an appetizer.

The crew, poised for raid.

And hey hey! Breakfast is all day. Lobster omelet (3-egg) runs $14, with potatoes and toast. And the basic “Pier Combo” of two eggs, potatoes, and toast goes for $8. Best deal? Probably two pancakes for $4. But my eye also flicks to the Fisherman’s Special. Has two eggs, potatoes, three buttermilk pancakes plus bacon or sausage, for $12.

First up, I invest $5 in four “OB Pier Sinkers.” And then I order the burger, and add cheese for $1 more.

The jalapeño-cream cheese sinkers are fun. Plenty of heat in there, gentled down by the deep-tasting shell of breadcrumbs.

But then, oh wow. This ragged half-pound of beef between two buns. You can see it has been ground right here and then molded by hand. Tomatoes, pickles, onion, swishes of mustard, ketchup and mayo color it up. I take one big bite, and the combo, but specially the burnt edges of the patty, make this a scrunchy winner. Only thing I want is a touch of salt and pepper. I get up and head for the door where Olivia’s standing.

Thief!

She’s looking at me, horrified.

“I just wanted some salt,” I say. But she’s pointing towards my meal. I turn around. OMG. Three of the roof seagulls are on my plate, grabbing bun, meat patty, bun. In and out in seconds. Two other gulls come in for the fries. Now they land 20 feet along the railing, and start enjoying their lunch. I turn and lunge towards them. The one with the top bun is nearest. He does five gulps while he batters off a young gull with his wing. The bun’s as wide as him, but he squishes that whole thing in. I can see it outlined as it floats down inside his neck.

“Do we call the police?” I say.

“I’ll get you another one,” Olivia says. “They’re just used to people giving them food. Uh, are you new here?”

Whatever, she’s good to her word, and I enjoy finally chowing down, slowly, while the gulls watch from the roof, waiting for me to blink. Hey, this is the wild world out out here on the sea.

  • The Place: Walking On Water Cafe, (Ocean Beach Pier Cafe), 5091 Niagara Avenue, Ocean Beach, 619-226-8653
  • Hours: 8am-8pm, daily (till 10pm, Saturday, Sunday)
  • Prices: Lobster (3-egg) breakfast omelet, potatoes, toast, $14; pier combo (2 eggs, potatoes, toast $8; two pancakes, $4; fisherman’s special (two eggs, potatoes, 3 buttermilk pancakes, bacon or sausage, $12; lobster taco, $8; clam chowder in a bread bowl, $10; fish and chips, $13; Sinkers (cream cheese, jalapeño, deep-fried bread crumbs), $5; fish and chips, $13; 1/2-lb burger, fries, $10; Caesar salad, $9; add lobster, $5; ultimate nacho supreme, (cheese, shredded beef, sour cream) $13
  • Buses: 35, 923
  • Nearest bus stops: Cable and Newport (35); Cable and Narragansett (923)
Comments
Sponsored

The latest copy of the Reader

Please enjoy this clickable Reader flipbook. Linked text and ads are flash-highlighted in blue for your convenience. To enhance your viewing, please open full screen mode by clicking the icon on the far right of the black flipbook toolbar.

Here's something you might be interested in.
Submit a free classified
or view all
Previous article

San Diego Reader Best of 2024

A world-class museum, best drinking, best eating, best shops, ups and downs of Del Cerro, parent-friendly playgrounds, peaceful, eaze-y feeling
Next Article

Lost Abbey finds a new way

Best drinking in San Diego
Comments
Ask a Hipster — Advice you didn't know you needed Big Screen — Movie commentary Blurt — Music's inside track Booze News — San Diego spirits Classical Music — Immortal beauty Classifieds — Free and easy Cover Stories — Front-page features Drinks All Around — Bartenders' drink recipes Excerpts — Literary and spiritual excerpts Feast! — Food & drink reviews Feature Stories — Local news & stories Fishing Report — What’s getting hooked from ship and shore From the Archives — Spotlight on the past Golden Dreams — Talk of the town The Gonzo Report — Making the musical scene, or at least reporting from it Letters — Our inbox Movies@Home — Local movie buffs share favorites Movie Reviews — Our critics' picks and pans Musician Interviews — Up close with local artists Neighborhood News from Stringers — Hyperlocal news News Ticker — News & politics Obermeyer — San Diego politics illustrated Outdoors — Weekly changes in flora and fauna Overheard in San Diego — Eavesdropping illustrated Poetry — The old and the new Reader Travel — Travel section built by travelers Reading — The hunt for intellectuals Roam-O-Rama — SoCal's best hiking/biking trails San Diego Beer — Inside San Diego suds SD on the QT — Almost factual news Sheep and Goats — Places of worship Special Issues — The best of Street Style — San Diego streets have style Surf Diego — Real stories from those braving the waves Theater — On stage in San Diego this week Tin Fork — Silver spoon alternative Under the Radar — Matt Potter's undercover work Unforgettable — Long-ago San Diego Unreal Estate — San Diego's priciest pads Your Week — Daily event picks
4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs
Close

Anchor ads are not supported on this page.

This Week’s Reader This Week’s Reader